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Main Cliff

The biggest crag of the area.

The most prominent face seen from the road, and the first cliff accessed from the carpark.

15 Lost in Space

Start up Alpine Arête, climbing to the left, and up a short slab. Leap across the gorse leftward to gain the narrow arête. Up the airy and atmospheric rib with good but spaced protection. Anchor with a long sling and walk off to the right.

13 Alpine Arete

Starts up the arête just where the track rises to meet the cliff. Optional protection in the crack on the right. Over the blocks and on up the arête all the way with reasonable protection. There is a DBA high up in the corner to the right at the top of Chimps.

17 Crack in the Wall

From the same start move right along the dirt ledge to the crack. Intricate climbing at the start until the crack widens to hand size, then cruisy to the top

17 Chimps In The Mist

Just further right along the ledge – the obvious corner and crack. Anchor station at the top. Lindsay Main, 2012

16 Bloodless Coup

From the main ledge mantle shelf up to the base of the low angled red arete. Using a dubious block go up to a horn at the base of the arete proper, after Br2 the climbing eases to grade 12 tho little gear.

15 Cornucopia

Follows the major low-angle corner with shrubs in the lower part. Copious holds lead up the corner to a series of blocks which appear to be stable and probably solid enough to take pro. Continue up the crack – hardest at the top.

13 The Jungle Book
21 Sequoia Arete

Starts at a small buttress with a low bolt. Up over this and climb easily to the ledge (cams for protection). Climb the arête past three bolts.

13 Step To The Right

Starts up a crack left of the main corner, leading left past the small roof and under the large roof. Step right and out around the roof and climb the crack above (crux). Finish up the corner to a high anchor station.

16 Reprobate
14 Renegade
23 Walk on the Mild Side
12 Chocolate Frog
17 Deviant
19 Undeviated

Start up Paradise Regained and clip the bolt with a sling, but then move straight up on to the slab to join the crack just right of the bush. Up the steepening crack (crux) and over the bulge on good holds. Finish up the top corner as for Deviant.

16 Paradise Regained

Climb the wall left of the arete past a bolt, then follow the crack.

16 Paradise Lost
18 Paradise Roof

First protection is fairly high, but after that it's well protected. Climb up the groove 2m right of the arete, continue up the corner then through the roof.

There's a chain at the top to rap off.

14 The Psychedelic Era

The dog-leg crack that parallels The Shoveller at the top, to the same anchor. Finish over the block or turn it on the left.

14 Addendum

Start up the crack to the left of the The Shoveller, then take the left hand flaring crack above that. Good protection.

18 Dark Matter

A direct route between the cracks. Start as for Addendum (clip the bolt) and climb to the left of the corner, crossing the crack where it veers right and continuing up the wall to its left (pro) to meet a thin crack leading to the top.

13 The Shoveller

Prominent left facing corner, start on the left wall then move up through the chimney before moving back to the left wall again. Exit either to the right or over the top blocks. There is an abseil station to the left dropping down onto the platform

16 No Horror

Another link-up. Climb most of The Shoveller before moving right to the finish of Bygone Error.

22 Dread Nought
19 Bygone Error
16 The Ultimate Horror

Climb the technical face on small edges past 2 bolts to a steep finish. Sustained!

19 Pleasant Interlude

Start as for TUH with a cam placement and angle across and rightwards of a small triangular roof. Pass two bolts on their left to gain easier ground, with a run-out to gear. From the blocks finish up overhanging leaning hand crack to right.

16 Gorsegeous Groove

Start up the corner past the gorse stumps and gain the crack on the right to skirt a gungy section, climbing past a flax bush. Then back to the corner for a squeeze chimney/off-width struggle to summit.

16 Space Spirals.

Begin in the corner with an arching hand crack to the left and a seam on the right. Once you get established above this, take the right hand crack and turn the roof on the right, then follow the crack to the top.

18 Seismi City

Start in the corner and move left with fingery moves to the first bolt; then up the arête past the second bolt to good holds. Place gear and climb the right side of the crack and directly up the slab with gear in the two horizontal breaks.

17 L'Abre Day
14 Flowers in the Night
19 Dead Heroes
11 Gorse Gully
17 Acid Queen
12 Diploma
14 N. S. U.

The fantastic crack line. Enjoy the surprise mantel to finish.

18 Eliminator
19 Banksy
13 Super Vegeman
19 Falaise Malaise

Hard start up thin edges leads you to a superb hand crack and an offwidth. Well worth it.

16 Oblivion
17 Voie Classique

Up the seam two metres right of Oblivion to an obvious cam placement, left to the other thin crack and more gear for a few metres, then move back right. Pull over the block on the left to a good rest, then up to easier climbing. The original finish trends right (to anchor) or you can move left to the Oblivion dihedral and anchor.

22 Falter
21 Altar

This spectacular arête line was spotted and toproped as early as 1973, but it was left to John Allen to make the first lead. Start either up the shallow groove on the arête past 2 bolts, or on the L wall with little or no pro. Up the overhanging bit on the R, then move L at the horizontal break and exit.

18 CERA The Terror
14 Claymore

The huge black corner prominent from the road, steepening towards the top. Since recent cleaning the start has become much harder, with some thin bridging. Above this climb past vegetation to the steep finish, which is more intimidating than difficult. Good protection.

19 Path de Pierre

Another superb slab climb. Start in corner, or go direct over first bolt. Five bolts (after retrobolting) and some mid sized cams for up top.

17 Little Vibrator

Starts in the middle of the wall R of C. at a small crack. Just below vegetation in the crack move R to a ledge and up the central one of three cracks to a sloping ledge. Step L up crack to ring anchors.

20 Cheniv de Pierre
22 Cabbage Milkshake
19 Vitesse Terminal
22 Haste Knot
17 Eleanor

The arching corner. Spaced protection up the corner, followed by small gear in a thin crack on the slab to reach a traverse rightward along the ramp. Finish up the thin crack.

16 Space Inflation

Up the first slab on good holds trending right past four bolts to the break (optional gear placement). Traverse right to the 5th bolt and climb the face directly (crux) to gain the mantle finish. Ring hangers just to the right.

18 Forewarned and Forearmed
17 Space Pooh
20 Greenstick Fracture
20 Eliminator Direct Start
15 Belle Epoque
16 The Dyslexic Agnostic

Showing all 62 nodes.

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