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Routes in Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 114 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Brasenose and Kaik Brasenose
18 Karachi Corner
1 16 22m
2 18 25m

FA: Hugh Logan, 1975

Trad 47m, 2
18 Exhaust Specialist Trad 20m
Brasenose and Kaik Kaik Wall
18 Jon’s Route

FA: Jon Veronese & Alan Hill, 2005

Trad
Chorlton Crag
18 Congenial Defect

FA: Lindsay Main, 2015

Trad
18 Couth

FA: Joe Arts, 2002

Trad
18 Route 66

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2004

Trad
18 Esoteric Arete

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2004

Trad
18 Gruntled

FA: Lindsay Main, 2015

Trad
Coffin Rock
18 Removable Holds

FA: Alex Pegley, 2008

Mixed trad 3
18 Mortuary Crack

FA: Lindsay Main, 2007

Trad
18 Mortician

FA: Lindsay Main, 2009

Trad
18 Less Bang For Your Buck

FA: Neil Silverwood, 2008

Mixed trad 2
18 Tombstone Wall

FA: Lindsay Main, 2009

Trad
18 Probait

Start between the two cracks, past bolts. Then right to headwall, where a couple of wires and cams required (BD size 3 handy).

Mixed trad 20m, 6
18 One Bolt, T(w)o Bolt Mixed trad 20m, 2
18 Peace, Love & Tofu

FA: Gary Kearns, 2008

Trad
18 Premature Demise

FA: Lindsay Main, 2009

Trad
18 Loppy

FA: Joe Arts, 2009

Sport 12m, 3
Crystal Clearlight
18 Acrylic Toupee Trad
Dawn Wall
18 Half A Flea

FA: Joe Arts, 1999

Sport 14m, 5
18 Gladiator

FA: Joe Arts, 1999

Mixed trad 3
Devils Gap East Wall
18 Shelter From The Storm
Trad 40m
18 Joe's route
Trad 40m
Devils Gap Left Cliff
18 Alien Encounter
Trad
Devils Gap The Embayment
18 Monkey Giraffe
Sport 8
Diamond Harbour Crag
18 Wharton’s Warple

Climb the L curving corner feature which starts as a chimney and ends as a crack. DBA at the top

Sport 12m, 5
Dragon Crags
18 The Integral
1 14 60m
2 18 40m
3 15 15m
4 16 15m
5 17 20m
6 6 30m
7 15 12m

Set: Lindsay Main, 2019

Mixed trad 190m, 7, 24
Dragon Crags Gaga Wall
18 Bikini

A climb in two parts. Start up the left-leaning crack feature past two close bolts, then pull up on to the ledge at the third bolt (crux). Up over the ledges to the crack with a bulge feature on its left. Mount the bulge erotically and continue up easy featured terrain to the Hollow Man anchor on the left.

FA: Lindsay Main & 2019, 2019

Sport 25m, 6
Dragon Crags Multi-pitch routes
18 Pioneer Ridge
1 17 25m
2 18 28m
3 14 22m
4 18 25m
5 13 15m

FA: Joe Arts & Hugh Logan, 2018

Mixed trad 120m, 5, 33
Dragon Crags The Gully
18 Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty
Mixed trad 40m, 7
Dragon Crags Dragon's Tail
18 Gorse Escape
Sport 18m, 4
Fantasy Factory
18 Indemnity Only
Trad 28m
18 Twinkletoes
Trad 28m
18 Short Cut to Mushrooms
Trad 30m
18 Bruno
Trad 28m
18 The Burst Phenomena
Trad 25m
18 Tupps Indispensible
Trad 25m
18 Season of the Mouse
Mixed trad 28m, 3
18 Ebb and Flow

Four bolts, with some natural gear in between. Start in right hand facing corner. Be careful of loose pillar half way up. Otherwise a good climb.

FA: Grant Piper, 2019

Mixed trad 18m, 4
18 Thermal Runaway

FA: Grant Piper, 2022

Sport 15m, 6
18 The Mangle
Trad 15m
18 Marcus the Tank Engine
Trad 20m
Fawlty Towers
18 Scorpion

FA: Tim Wethey, 1986

Trad 20m
18 On The Face Of It

FA: Lindsay Main, 2004

Trad 20m
18 The Flying Dustman

FA: Joe Arts, 2004

Trad 25m
18 Stinka

FA: Joe Arts, 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Forsyth Crags
18 Pete’s Route

FA: Peter Gresham & Alan Hill, 2003

Trad
18 Eric’s Route

FA: Eric Stevens, 2005

Trad 10m
18 Fat Chance

FA: Alan Hill & Frazer Munro, 2001

Trad
18 One For The Road

FA: Alan Hill & Frazer Munro, 2001

Trad
18 Damian’s Route

FA: Damian Cotton & Alan Hill, 2001

Trad
Holmes Bay
18 Bridg-itte

FA: Murray Cullen, 1990

Trad 15m
18 Reptillian

FA: Murray Cullen, 1990

Trad 15m
18 Holmes Alone

FA: Hamish Reid, 1997

Trad
Little River Crag
18 Consequences

Up a cracked arete to a bolt, then some tricky face climbing. Continue up blocky terrain to gain a nice hand crack and the top. Anchor is out right on the slab.

Mixed trad 30m, 1
The Monument
18 Terminator Trad
18 Klingons On The Starboard Bow

FA: Joe Arts, 1995

Sport 3
18 New Route

FA: Lindsay Main, 2008

Trad
18 Cardiac Arete Trad
18 Quasar Trad
18 Red Shift
1 18 16m
2 18 12m

FA: Marty Beare, 1979

FA: Joe Arts, 1994

Mixed trad 28m, 2, 2
18 Zodiac Trad
18 Black Hole Trad
Mount Bradley Yo-Yo Wall
18 Bikini Trad 15m
18 Pigs On The Wing Trad 18m
Mount Bradley The Main Cliff
18 Set Up Trad 15m
18 Fear of Frying Trad 30m
Mount Bradley The Castle
18 Henry Crippen

Suffered earthquake damage

Trad 16m
Mount Bradley Right Cliff
18 The Steep Trad
Mount Bradley The Upper Tier
18 The Sting Trad 10m
Mount Evans
18 Pheonix

FA: John Barnes

Trad
18 Numbskull

FA: Grant Piper, 2001

Trad 20m
18 B.I.R.D

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2002

Trad 20m
18 Pin Fall

FA: Alan Hill, 2002

Trad 20m
18 Truck Line

FA: Alan Hill, 2000

Trad
18 Finger Licking Good

FA: Hamish Reid, Alan Hill & Phil Green, 1999

Trad
18 Consolation Crack

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2002

Trad
18 The Minister Of Information

FA: Alan Hill & Gavin Moy, 2003

Trad
18 Crack Addict

FA: Alan Hill & Paul Bingham, 1999

Trad
18 Luna Rossa

FA: Alan Hill & John Veronese, 2000

Trad
18 Make Better Lovers

FA: Damian Cotton, Alan Hill & Frazer Munro, 2000

Trad
18 Pleasure Cruise

FA: Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton, 2000

Trad
18 Fushia Legend

FA: Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton, 2000

Trad
18 Supernatural

FA: Lindsay Main, 2019

Trad
18 The Piltdown Man

FA: Alan Hill & Dale Miller, 1999

Trad
Ōtepatotu Main Cliff
18 Paradise Roof

First protection is fairly high, but after that it's well protected. Climb up the groove 2m right of the arete, continue up the corner then through the roof.

There's a chain at the top to rap off.

Trad 20m
18 Dark Matter

A direct route between the cracks. Start as for Addendum (clip the bolt) and climb to the left of the corner, crossing the crack where it veers right and continuing up the wall to its left (pro) to meet a thin crack leading to the top.

FA: Joe Arts, 2012

Mixed trad 25m, 1
18 Seismi City

Start in the corner and move left with fingery moves to the first bolt; then up the arête past the second bolt to good holds. Place gear and climb the right side of the crack and directly up the slab with gear in the two horizontal breaks.

Mixed trad 2
18 Eliminator Trad 18m
18 CERA The Terror

FA: Joe Arts, 2011

Mixed trad 25m, 6
18 Forewarned and Forearmed

FA: Alan Hill, 2012

Sport 20m, 6
Ōtepatotu Middle Buttress
18 Avant Gardener

Goes up the smooth prow. Start on the left and boulder up to the ledge, placing microwires left and below. Gain the ledge, with good wires in the crack. Climb on the left and place more micros above. Continue up past horizontal breaks with cams and anchor to a large block at the top. This climb is well-protected apart from the start, but expertise with microwires is required.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2015

Trad 10m
18 Recidivist

Slightly contrived, being squeezed into the central part of the buttress. Use the Nostalgia crack for the first piece of gear and then up to the overhang and pull through slightly left to the slab. Climb the prow directly (16, Justin Hall 2013) to a nice stance and two-bolt anchor.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2014

Trad 22m
Ōtepatotu Lefthand Buttress
18 The Spine

FA: Hugh Logan, 2012

Sport 20m, 3
Panama Rock
18 The Milk Snatcher

FA: Doog Menzies, 2012

Sport 22m, 8
18 Centurion

FA: Lindsay Main, 1990

Sport 40m, 11
Port Levy
18 Left Side Of The Pillar

FA: ARH & PG, 2006

Trad
Tabletop Crag
18 The Baldest

FA: Alan Hill, Joe Arts & Peter Whitworth

Trad
18 Southerly Front

FA: Joe Arts, Josh Hudson & Alan Hill, 2009

Trad
Starvation Gully Area
18 Nativity

FA: Nathan Crabb, 2012

Trad

Showing 1 - 100 out of 114 routes.

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