Ascents in Wharewerawera / Long Beach having Beta

A decent sport route which becomes a mega classic once you ignore the bolts. The lower section consists of decent gear placed from awkward and slightly strenuous positions. Two bomber placements below the crux means you can climb the entire steep section with relative comfort into a kneebar rest where the last runner is placed. This runner is a bit of a joke and probably wouldn't hold a fall which makes the final few moves to the anchor a bold prospect. While the climb is technically safe (with little chance of decking) from the kneebar you're 100% committed as the safety of the bolts are now out of reach. So would recommend having the last section dialled before trying it on lead

Cool climbing with a few awkward interludes and some tricky clips. Fun mix of power and balance

Really cool line, my new favorite warmup for the area. Fun movement throughout and really well protected. Watch for loose rock especially near the higher bolts

Good to send this one on my last long beach trip before leaving Dunedin!

Orangutan arms turned the double dyno into a dead point.

Tricky start

Steep with cool moves that get better and better, culminating in a great finish! Would deserve star(s) if the rock was better quality.

Warm up

Nice

Not the best rock, but lots of different moves

Climbs like a chipped windowpane

Some nice moves down low, but travels through some of the worst rock quality on the wall. Got tricked into going high at last bolt

Traversed in from left for onsite attempt, fluked the jumping direct start on red point

More like the big dirty!

Some nice undercling pockets and an elegant topout

Bowels of no mercy!

Warm up

Fell off the OS, got it first redders. Techy!

Red point! 5th go overall. Felt super easy. Was resting better on the jug by keeping in to the wall and only using back three fingers of each hand. Went purposefully to the deadpoint with full focus. Did the final move of crux to right sloper and then crimp easily. Felt so nice to just cruise to the anchors with plenty left in the tank. The best 24 I have climbed in NZ so far.

4th go overall. Going for the deadpoint again, and feeling better than previous time but was inaccurate and didn't latch it properly.

3rd go overall. High point. Went for the left hand dead point above the last bolt. Got it, but my fingers wouldn't crimp properly. Just had one more move to do and the crux was over

Warm up.

Easy #2ndGo. Did the dyno anyway, since it does work and is fun

Flash attempt. One hang after 4th bolt. Really annoyed because I went for the dyno option and knew I was going to fall short on the way up. Felt I could have done it statically to make sure of the flash.

Still had to try really hard to send it second go. I definitely didn't have the best beta, but this seemed hard for the grade compared to other routes at the crag. #2ndGo

Onsight attempt. Dry-fired left hand crimping on a sloper and exploded off the wall between second and third bolt.

Second attempt overall. One hang on the final bolt. Got to the final crux after clipping the last bolt. Didn't have the beans for the last deadpoint to the left hand crimp. Very close! I know all the moves now and just have to get to the top with enough energy do the last crux move

Second warm up

Really nice warm up.

Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!

Nice little route. Quite off-balance in a couple of places, cool movement.

Warm up

Much easier second time, knowing where to not muck around. #2ndgo

Onsight attempt came up short at the last bolt going over the slopey lip.

Crux felt a little bit contrived

Took quite a few sessions

Even though I tried to avoid it, I also succumbed to the beached whale mantle.

Three bolts. Fun bouldery start, throwing from a small crimp to good ledge. Then excellent slab climbing with perfect edges and an easy mantle to finish. There's a horizontal break for a potential (purple) cam placement to protect this last move, but it's pretty bad. At least the next bolt isn't too far below and the climbing is easy from there...

Fun layback up the crack, taking me right back to the Darrrans

dirty lol. gave it a brush. has some cool movement