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Archie's Playground

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 32
  • Aka: The Playground

Seasonality

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Summary

A group of boulders on the sand behind pinnacle with a mix of slab, vertical and some slight overhang. Range of difficulties from easy slab to harder climbing with mantle top-outs for most boulders.

Approach

Head out from the car park and follow the path to the beach. Then head towards pinnacle, turning left before you reach it and following the path into the trees (often used to get to Perfect Skin). You'll see the boulders straight away once inside the trees.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on edge of crack feature and traverse along it to the top of the boulder.

FA: Kate Haydon

Start on left side of crack feature and move over onto slab before head up to top out.

FA: Olivia Jarosz, 10 Dec

Smear low on dish on the left of the slab boulder. Stand up through big blocky foot and move up ,through large blocky rail, to easy top

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Start on low feet in middle of boulder. Proceed straight up through feet and up the middle of the bulge. You can exit out left, through a blocky rail, or right, through some flat edges, early which are about V1's

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Start on Sidepull/Pinch on the middle right of the slab Boulder. Work feet up left and use flat edge and crimp to top out

FA: Eilish Fitzgerald, 7 May 2023

Start on obvious sidepull/pinch on the middle-right of the slab boulder. Move up through the feet and reach a jug followed by an easy top-out.

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Start on sidepull/pinch on the middle-right of the slab boulder and move right using a good crimp and couple of feet. Easy top-out

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Start with right hand on large under-cling and left on a gaston. Smear with right to gain feet and stand up to easy topout

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Sit start under the prow on left hand scoop and wrap. Sharp wraps and heels to move up the left side of the boulder. Traverse the top of the boulder on good slopers to mantle top out.

FA: Angus Kirk & Gabriel R., 2 Dec

Sit start on the bottom of the arete, moving hands up to the top edge and mantle to top out. Can do an easier version if you exit around the side early (V1/2).

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Hard start on small and sharp holds in the middle of the wall. One mover dyno to mantle top out.

FA: Mischa van B., 2023

Sit start low using flat crimp. Move through pockets to crimp and topout.

Start with a right pinch and left press. Move through jug to mantle top-out.

FA: Olivia Jarosz, 10 Dec

Sit start left side of the Standing boulder (Boulder on top of vert wall) with right hand on the arete and left on an undercling pinch on the bottom of the boulder. Move to slope-y crimp and work your way up to easy mantle. Note: the landing is a little sketchy so take a spotter if you aren't confident.

FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 May 2023

Sit start on side-pull near centre of the boulder. Powerful move to another side-pull and up to crimps and pockets for a slightly tricky top out.

FA: Teddy Périgaux, 7 Dec

Sit start with both hands on small crimps on the right of the boulder. Crimpy moves and knee to go right hand to positive flake. Move through crimps and mantle to finish.

FA: Gabriel R., 2 Dec

Start on obvious side pull on the right of the standing boulder. Find feet and move up to a delicate mantle. The landing is a little uneven but, if you aren't confident, would be fine with a spotter.

FA: Gabriel R., 13 May 2023

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Fri 28 Apr
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