Routes in Kawakawa Bay for selected grade

A hard slab start (recommended pre-clipping 1st or 2nd bolt which can be accessed from the left), leads to a cruxy bulge with optional tree aid. Shares some terrain with Man Cub in order to save the big tree at the base and to keep clear of the trad line (The Jungle Book).

A bouldery start leads to cruisy moves into a great middle section, with a good rest before the final crux finish. Black hangers.

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Scramble up right to pre clip the 1st bolt if you don't have a stick clip. Starts in the corner, then head up the slab (avoiding the crack), moving right at the tree, then tackle the improbable-looking upper slab. Great photo spot out right on a bushy ledge above 'The Zoolander Center'.

Climbs the imposing sickle feature then escapes left to the upper face.

Pitch 1: (20) Scramble up the access rope to a ledge, then continue upwards to the undercling crack. Follow this crack until you get squeezed out of the big corner, escaping left to the slab and anchor.

Pitch 2: (17) Step left to the corner, mantle up then head to the anchor.

The old steep rough approach and hand line is still there (hard to find), but it's probably easier and safer to carefully sneak around from the end of the hand line at the bottom of P2 of Ventura Highway, past the toe of the buttress for 10m through the bush, then look up.

Runs up the central smooth part of the main wall, between Miromiro and Rise of the Sloths, follow the black bolt hangers. Finishes up the vertical groove with a technical second crux to keep you entertained. Originally graded as a hard 20, potentially a grade harder.

An easier variation start is possible by laybacking the crack out left to avoid all the slab crux moves. The top crux in the groove is grade 18 if you want to log this variation.

Balancey moves down low give way to easier slab climbing up above, anchors are the same as for Bitten By A Cobra.

Fantastic moves on well bolted, slightly overhung face climb, then over the arete to an easy slab top out.

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

Originally an easy 20 until the undercling jug broke off. Now a hard 20. Optional V1 Highball. Follows the white hangers.

Bolted line up the face right of 'Jug Addiction'.

The line between Cave Boy and Captain Caveman. Starts part way up Captain Caveman.

The hand crack parallel to the arete. Finishes on the highest buttress.

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

Start as for Survival Of The Fittest, but head right from the mid-height ledge to continue on the arete. DBB.

1. 22m, 8 bolts: Follow the grey ring bolts to the belay ledge in the middle of the face.

2. 26m, 8 bolts: Follow the first four ring bolts then tra-verse right, through the roof, to join the top of Highway Child. Dan Head; 2011.

Now 5-6 pitches right to the top.

1. [18, 9b] Wander up the arete to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge.

2. [15, 7b] Left into the corner then back right and up to reach the hand rope. Take that leftward.

3. [16, 8b] As for P2 of Mexican Americans to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.

4. [18, 8b] The leftmost line of bolts over bulges to belay below the wall left of the arete.

5. [20, 10b] Up the right traversing line of bolts around the corner to the arete, then up the arete to reach a ledge and anchor. Best clip this with a long sling and continue.

6. [14, 2b] A short easy pitch to the top. Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

The left-most line at Wall Of Sirens. From the small belay ledge there are two options. Either head up the small finger crack (20) or right through the overhanging hand crack (19).

Whatever the option, head left to finish at the anchors of Benny's Magical Koura Circus.

Start at the same belay for Delusions Of Grandeur, but at the midway point continue up the arete, then head right to the top slab.

Pitch 1: (20) From the right side of the cave climb the crack, then bridge and fight your way to the ledge above the roof. Then follow the crack to a bushy gut to the belay

Pitch 2: (20) Continue up the small buttress and into the groove on the left side of the pillar, belaying at the small roof (Trad Belay)

Pitch 3: (20) Go right at the roof and pull over the lip, following the face trending right to a groove and continuing up to the belay

The climb just to the right of The Raven. Go up the right trending ramp/crack to an overhang. Move left onto a ledge, then continue past a thread option to a mantle that leads to the belay for pitch two on The Odyssey. Trad belay

Climb up the right-trending chimney in the corner. The higher you get the harder the moves are, leading to a ledge to belay off. Continue as for The Odyssey.

Starts at the second cave. Follow the finger crack then mantle onto the face. Head up bushy ledges to a crack system. Keep heading up through bushy terrain through a roof, face and slab climbing. Hard route finding due to the bushy nature of the route.