This crag is now closed until further notice due to cultural significance. There are no signs at the crag. Please do not climb here.
Kinloch (K1) is not a very large crag with just over few dozen routes in total, however it offers a great days climbing with easy access and superb easy to moderate climbs. Contrary to the other guides online, there are few naked bolts remaining, and some of the old trad routes have been retrobolted. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a mornings climbing. But the left hand end is in the trees/shade, while the right hand end is out in the sun, so you can usually find something at the right temperature. The rock is ryolite and very solid and the routes are generally all high quality. Some Maori rock art has been discovered at the base of "Buckets in the Belfry", so this climb is now closed. Please do NOT climb on this otherwise you jeopardise access to the crag.
The land is owned and administered by the Wairakei Terraces Trust. They have currently banned access to climbers so please respect this and do not climb here until advised otherwise.
Once you have reach the settlement of Kinloch drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Ketha Place. Park you car at the far end of Ketha place. The crag is a 1 minutes walk from here, or alternately you can walk in from the water front and follow the walking track in. Routes described from left to right.
Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tihoi Venture school started to develop the area. The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff
Alice Heath on ★★ Cherry Blossom 18 - IMG_20201004_191642.jpg
Dan Head on ★★ Ahorangi 19 - IMG-20210920-WA0007.jpg
Harrison Larkin at Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED - IMG_3666.JPEG
Sarah jane mooney at Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED - 20230916_110431.jpg
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