Showing all 18 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
17 | Matt Thom's Ground-Up
The line of least resistance between New Wave Wall and Californication. Matt doesn't even remember this climb even though he got the first ascent FA: Matt Thom & Dan Head, 2009 | 40m | |||
20 | ★ Californication
1
20
30m
2
20
20m
3
20
30m
Pitch 1: (20) From the right side of the cave climb the crack, then bridge and fight your way to the ledge above the roof. Then follow the crack to a bushy gut to the belay Pitch 2: (20) Continue up the small buttress and into the groove on the left side of the pillar, belaying at the small roof (Trad Belay) Pitch 3: (20) Go right at the roof and pull over the lip, following the face trending right to a groove and continuing up to the belay FA: Dan Head & Matt Thom, 2009 | 80m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Lone Pine
1
23
25m
2
23
25m
An epic outing with a variety of face, crack, overhang and chimney moves Pitch 1: (23) Climb past the 2 bolts on the face to a ledge. Continue right off the ledge to an overhanging crack. Battle through it to the belay ledge on your right. Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the face to a crack/chimney with a small roof. Traverse right underneath this roof, then pull onto the buttress. Continue up to the Lone Pine belay tree. FA: Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson, May 2016 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Disengage the Simulator
The climb just to the right of The Raven. Go up the right trending ramp/crack to an overhang. Move left onto a ledge, then continue past a thread option to a mantle that leads to the belay for pitch two on The Odyssey. Trad belay FA: Matt Thom, Rob Addis & Dan Head, 2011 | 35m | |||
20 | ★★★ Orion
Climb up the right-trending chimney in the corner. The higher you get the harder the moves are, leading to a ledge to belay off. Continue as for The Odyssey. FA: Dan Head, Rob Addis & Matt Thom, 2011 | 35m | |||
22 | ★★★ The Odyssey
1
17
30m
2
18
30m
3
22
20m
One of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the North Island, some say it is even the best. Pitch 1: (17) Start from the ledge just right of the big pinnacle from the fixed rope. Climb through the above bulges before moving left under a small roof and through the groove. Belay in the cave (Trad belay) Pitch 2: (18) Climb through the roof of the cave to a ledge system. Begin the traverse left to a lower ledge system. Continue traversing to a v groove with a crack in the roof above you (Trad belay) Pitch 3: (22) The money pitch. Blast through the roof crack to easier ground. Follow the finger crack and the corner to the easy head wall and bolted belay. This pitch can be easily aided. FA: Dan Head, Matt Thom & Rob Addis, 2011 | 80m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★★ Space Odyssey
1
24
20m
2
23
20m
Starts from the top of P1 of The Odyssey. Pitch 1: (24) originally 25 After establishing on the slab continue up the steep roof utilising the fist-sized pod. Belay above the lip. Pitch 2: (23) Head up the right hand corner system, then left once you have pushed into the slab. Bring a #4 cam for the belay. P2 would be improved by adding a bolt or two, to make it more enjoyable /less sketchy (permission granted by the f.a.). FA: Matt Thom, Rob Addis & Dan Head, 2011 | 40m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Drunken Monkey
1
20
35m
2
22
35m
Starts 5m right of The Odyssey. Pitch 1: (20) Climb upwards trending right, traversing under the roof and past a bulge. Continue to a belay ledge. Pitch 2: (22) Blast through the thin face to the cave, trending left as you navigate the upper cliff to a trad belay. FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, 2012 | 70m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ OPC Clones Go Crushing
Climbs up big holds in the corner and through the roof. Dirty climbing above the roof leads to a trad belay. Continue as for Drunken Monkey or Shoulder Charge. FA: Matt Thom & Craig Scott, 2011 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Shoulder Charge
CLimb up OPC Clones Go Crushing or Drunken Monkey to access this climb. Head up the start for pitch 2 of Drunken Monkey climbing the face to reach a horizontal break. Place some gear before stepping right to the face and the groove above you. Trend right to the first small roof before pulling through the left-hand side of the roof. Move left to the overhanging crack for a sting in the tale finish. Belay as for Of Moss And Men FA: Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson, Feb 2017 | 40m | |||
23 | ★★ Of Moss and Men
1
18
15m
2
23
40m
Pitch 1: (18) Start as for Bangin' 7 Gram Rocks, 'Cause That's How I Roll. Once above the roof continue to a trad belay in the groove. Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the groove then through two small overhangs. Move right and climb the crack system, zig zagging right then left to the belay | 55m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Bangin' 7 Gram Rocks, 'Cause That's How I Roll
1
17
20m
2
18
35m
3
18
15m
Pitch 1: (17) Head up the overhanging corner, heading right under the small roof to the chimney. Pitch 2: (18) Head up the chimney and the offwidth. Traverse right until you find another offwidth. Belay at the base. Pitch 3: (18) Continue as for pitch 2 of Wish You Were Here. FA: Rob Addis & Chris Peacock, 2011 | 70m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★★ Wish You Were Here
1
17
40m
2
18
15m
Pitch 1: (17) Head up the right-facing corner system until you're under the overhanging crack. Escape right and around the right side of the bulge. Step left then continue up the groove to a cave belay. Pitch 2: (18) Exit right of the cave then head up the slab. Head right to climb the corner system and finish by the large block. FA: Rob Addis, Matt Thom & Dan Head, 2011 | 55m, 2 | |||
23 | Super Fantastico
A newer line of the crag that doesn't have much information on it. The climb is split into three pitches, with pitch three being 23 with high fall potential. FA: Matt Thom & Rob Addis, 2011 | 70m, 3 | |||
15 | Ziggy Stardust
Climb the left-slanting ledges to the first pitch belay of Ziggy Stardust. FA: Rob Addis & Matt Thom, 2011 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Beached As Bro!
Head directly up the wall on interesting protection in the form of chicken heads. Head right and climb the slab near the arete. Traverse under the large loose block to another arete around a corner. Climb up the arete to a tree belay. FA: Rob Addis & Matt Thom, 2011 | 40m | |||
18 | Safety Tom
At the base of Odyssey Wall. Head up the blockly buttress to the base of The Odyssey. FA: Rafael White & Paul Monigatti, Dec 2016 | 18m | |||
20 | Bottoms Last Longer
Starts at the second cave. Follow the finger crack then mantle onto the face. Head up bushy ledges to a crack system. Keep heading up through bushy terrain through a roof, face and slab climbing. Hard route finding due to the bushy nature of the route. FA: Rafael White & Cameron Fraser, Jan 2017 | 30m |
Showing all 18 routes.