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Description
Adventurous alpine slabs and cracks in a wild and exposed location. Not for the faint of heart, run out and stiff for the grade, with loose and exposed approaches. Take your rack (and know how to use it) and some abseil sling/cord for the anchors, which are not "rap stations".
Access issues
This is an alpine environment in a national park. ALL waste must be carried out. Take a poo pot (available from Unwin lodge or DOC at Mt Cook info centre).
Approach
3+ hour
Walk up the the stream bed on its true right to reach the upper valley (perhaps 4-5 hours). Part of the approach may be made via a trail on the high shelf if the stream is not an option, but there will be matagouri and spaniards to negotiate. Alternately take a 6 minute helicopter ride from Glentanner, around $330 for up to 5 people (much better).
Where to stay
Tent space and several adequate rock bivvies in the upper valley. Note the upper valley is very exposed to northwesterly winds. Tents and other gear need to be taken down and well hidden or covered with rocks when not in use, the keas will chew through anything (including poo pots). More luxurious accommodation is available at Twizel, Glentanner, NZAC Unwin Lodge, or Mt Cook Village and White Horse campground.
Ethic
Bolts are only placed where no gear is available. If that means one gear placement on an otherwise bolted pitch, so be it.
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Vanessa Wills on ★★★ Pulp Friction 20 - Vanessa at Twin Streams, Pulp Friction
Fri 28 Apr
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