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Ascents in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island having Beta

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Right Corner Wall
25 Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson Sport 9m, 4 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Had a second tie-in with second pre-clipped to make trying the boulder a bit more pleasant. Definitely made some progress, but eventually just pulled up to jug and climbed to top to clean since wanted to get David on Dodor before it got too late.

 
25 Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson Sport 9m, 4 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Worked out some beta on the bottom boulder. Seems harder than 25, but maybe this is a V5 with good beta.

 
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
22 Carpe Diem - with David Jefferson Sport 11m, 3 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.

 
Wed 22nd May 2024 - The Airstrip
Valley Wall
V5 Hard Download Boulder 3m Classic
Jack Newman
Dyno beta

 
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
22 Carpe Diem - with Alexei Drummond Sport 11m, 3 Average
David Jefferson
Pretty cruxy for a warm up.

 
25 Dodor - with Alexei Drummond Sport 12m, 4 Good
David Jefferson
Took a few goes to make the feet work, but got there in the end. Actually rather fun in a manufactured rock kind of way.

 
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Right Corner Wall
25 Hrgngh Direct - with Alexei Drummond Sport 9m, 4 Good
David Jefferson
Very cryptic boulder problem that I came relatively close to solving, but alas, time was short. Reminiscent of Steaming Wally at Kangaroo Point, the other dingy urban quarry crag I’m familiar with.

 
Tue 21st May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
19 Jugzilla - with julia stegvik
1 30 Second lead by julia stegvik
2 12 Sport lead by Sven Fissiaux

Bueno

Sport 42m, 13 Classic
Sven Fissiaux
flowy climb. Cool view of the lake at the 2nd pitch after a juggy and long first pitch.

 
19 Captain Caveman - with julia stegvik
1 30 Sport lead by Sven Fissiaux

A bit dirty slab, more like a 15

2 12 Second lead by julia stegvik

Cool pitch through a cave

3 18 Sport lead by Sven Fissiaux

Follow the crag to the overhang, easy moves on big jugs.

Sport 60m, 24 Classic
Sven Fissiaux
Cool varied climbing, beautiful view over the lake.

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
16 The Gecko Groove Trad 28m Very Good
Moo
Lots of good jamming - foot jams, hand jams, leg jams arm jams. You also don’t have to climb it like a crack, lots of jugs on the side of the crack

 
22 Rohans Arete Sport 28m, 11 Good
Moo
got stuck on the triangle hold part

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Jungle Wall
25 Bagheera - with Moo, kbay crew Sport 7m, 3 Mega Classic
David Brancalion
Sport climbing goal of 2024: completed.

 
18 Baloo - with Moo, kbay crew Sport 18m, 9 Good
David Brancalion
A minor obstacle required to access Bagheera

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
18 Outboard Crack - with Moo, kbay crew Trad 20m Very Good
David Brancalion
First time wearing crack gloves and cleaning trad gear. That double stack jam was so bomberrrrr.

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
19 Captain Caveman - with Moo, kbay crew Sport 60m, 24 Classic
David Brancalion
First pitch can be considered a hard hike, second pitch is the money pitch - huge 3D chimney abundant with features. Final pitch is short and punchy with a nice steep finish on bucket jugs with the entire bay underneath your feet. Two 70m ropes allowed us to rap down in a single descent, a fantastic finish for this multi!

 
17 Jugzilla P1 - with Moo, kbay crew
1 17 30m Sport
Sport 30m, 13 Very Good
David Brancalion
Night climb! Just did the first pitch as it was already past our bedtime

 
22 Predator — 2 attempts - with Moo, kbay crew Sport 12m, 5 Very Good
David Brancalion
Big burly throws on a steep freestanding monolith. First attempt to get the beta and find the hidden holds, went second go.

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
22 Easy Rohans Arete - with Toby Jackson, Daniel Smith Sport 28m, 11 Mega Classic
Fergus Roache
What a climb! Great moves. Thank you for encouraging me to try Daniel Smith

I couldn't get it first try and my foot popped! Move felt easy second try. Would love to come back.

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
25 The Incredible Hulk - with Toby Jackson, Kiera Montgomery Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Fergus Roache
What a lovely day out climbing and trying hard with friends. I thought none of us would get it after struggling on our second day, but on Sunday morning we all managed to secure tickets for the send choo choo

I found that I could span to skip all of the tricky crimps, so maybe this is a little easier if you have a 190+ span

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
23 Hard Fossil Free Zone - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett Sport 18m, 8 Very Good
Aidan Sarginson
Sudo grovelling in the corner down low to thuggy moves to the mantle. I'll take a climb 28 climbers struggle on. Waipapa 23 so could be 24 elsewhere

 
23 Hard Fossil Free Zone - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett Sport 18m, 8 Very Good
Aidan Sarginson
Grovelled up and worked out the beta. Also ripped a flake off the main wall. Still climbs the same

 
23 Robin - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Aidan Sarginson
Warm up/to film Braden

 
27 Batman - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Aidan Sarginson
One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
25 The Incredible Hulk — 4 attempts - with Fergus Roache, Kiera Montgomery Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Toby Jackson
Great climb, if a bit squished between routes. Sending it as a team was wonderful time!

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
27 Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

 
27 Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

 
27 Batman — 3 attempts - with Aidan Sarginson, Tom Buckett, Alexei Drummond Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Braden Van Leer
Really surprised myself with this one. Was luckily to get all the beta upfront and was ble to pull all the moves quickly. had some beta to work out second session at the start but managed last go best go. After taking some pretty big and rough falls yesterday at the first bolt so I decided to climb with the second draw pre clipped. Keen to come back and send with clipping the second

 
27 Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Tom Buckett
Overall good session with everyone making substantial progress. Gratz Braden on your first 27, at Waipapa no less 👍

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipari
Project Gully
V10 Architexture Boulder 5m Classic
Reece Deacon
Quality

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
14 Groove Tube - with Stephen Leong Sport 8m, 3
HyeonJoo
Fun chimney!

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Raglan
Sky Castle
18 House of Dragon - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva Sport 15m Good
Nick Morrow
Start was funky if not using the arete. makes it a bit harder but fun variation.

 
16 Saturn 5 - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva Sport 15m Very Good
Nick Morrow
Really liked the bridging through the chimney. Bit harder than 16 if done this way

 
21 Casual Healing - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva Sport 12m Very Good
Nick Morrow
Very cool movement. Few rock breaks while climbing so be careful

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
25 The Incredible Hulk — 4 attempts - with Fergus Roache, Kiera Montgomery Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Toby Jackson
Felt sick and couldn't work out the mini-crux, eventually sorted out the beta!Found the top section scary and committing.

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
18 Road Tripping Sport 48m, 14
baz
Super fun climbing with some friction in the morning

 
19 Sidewinder Sport 61m, 17
baz
Thought i had tried this before, but i was on an entirely different route ahah, good fun hangdogging and not trying too hard I can now see why its a classic though

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls
14 Twinkle Twinkle - with Rickles Sport 20m, 10 Good
Joyce
 
16 Baby Driver - with Rickles Sport 20m Good
Joyce
 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto
No Fly Zone
24 Le Stix — 2 attempts - with Iker Sustatxa Sport 35m, 14 Classic
Kirill Hantayev
Amazing climb! Thanks Iker for cleaning all the moss and lichen and giving me the beta

 
22 Atreyu Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Kirill Hantayev
First attempt after injuring my foot on this climb 1.5 years ago

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
20 Fire and Ice Sport 15m, 9
Kelly T
Hung at a bolt to work out the sequence, fun moves.

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
27 Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

 
27 Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

 
27 Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.

 
21 Name Game - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer Sport 10m, 7 Good
Aidan Sarginson
Warm up

 
27 Batman — 3 attempts - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Aidan Sarginson
Got all moves this session. Middle is dialed with the two hard moves being hard (duh) A contender for my first 27

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto
No Fly Zone
24 Le Stix - with Iker Sustatxa Sport 35m, 14
Matt
Did the crux and a few moves after that. Route cleaned thanks to Iker!

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
19 Rock Climb This You Bastards Sport 12m, 6
Tony
Probably wandered too far left. Love to come back and try the bridging as per the guide.

 
22 Kimi Worrell Memorial Route Sport 11m, 6
Tony
Thought it was all on the face and looked too hard to lead. In hindsight, probably meant to be hand on the top but not standing on it.

 
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto
No Fly Zone
22 Atreyu — 3 attempts - with Clément S Sport 25m, 10
Matt
Not enough juice on the overhang.

 
Fri 17th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
21 Brunettes, Not Fighter Jets P1 - with Daniel Smith, Fergus Roache
1 21 Sport
Sport 60m, 14 Good
Toby Jackson
Fun, but felt a bit scared on the mantle despite all the jugs.

 
Fri 17th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
16 Easy The Gecko Groove - with Daniel Smith, Fergus Roache Trad 28m Classic
Toby Jackson
Very nice, incredibly secure climbing.

 
Fri 17th May 2024 - Wharepapa Rock
Owairaka Buttress
19 Crown Of Thistles Sport 20m, 5
Blair Johnston
Great climb

 
22 ~21 Haul Or Bawl Sport 20m, 7
Blair Johnston
Pretty easy. Wouldn’t call the moves wild but the were fun. Good climbing

 
20 ~19 Ka-ching Sport 28m, 16
Blair Johnston
This climb is funny as fuck. So outrageous. Definitely safe. Rock not the greatest but worth a go.

 
Thu 16th May 2024 - Waipu Caves
Cave Wall
15 Unknown Sport Route #2 - with Caitlin, Ruthie Sport 10m, 2 Good
John Park
Again, should've been left as trad.

 
14 ~13 Unknown Sport Route #3 - with Caitlin, Ruthie Sport 8m, 1 Don't Bother
John Park
Sad that this was bolted, should just be a highball boulder or a trad climb. There's enough placement.

 
Mon 13th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
16 ~17 High Hopes - with Rach Sport 45m, 14 Classic
Jezza
Maybe a little harder? So much fun though!

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipari
Love Vigilante Boulder
28 Love Vigilante - with Albie Thomas Sport Good
AJ Lee
holy shit the holds are whimsical but usable

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Ti Point
Whiskey Delta Area
25 The Troll — 2 attempts - with Toby Jackson, Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Trent Porter
Really happy for this one to go down so quickly. Thank you for the immense belay Toby

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
20 Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools Sport 11m, 6 Very Good
Matt
Looks like I went a little more to the right than the line suggests. Will try it again sticking more to the crack. Great pocket moves.

 
15 I Do My Cleaning in the Rain Trad 14m Very Good
Matt
Cleaned that pincer looking hold lower down (used to fit a nice green cam). Was actually loose, so may have to protect using surrounding cracks

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Ashurst Bouldering
Tee Tree Boulder
V5 Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason Boulder Very Good
Steve Brown
quality

 
V2/3 ~V3 Nathen's Nasty Arete Boulder Good
Steve Brown
felt v3

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari
Hold On To Your Face Wall
20 Hungover Trad 20m Average
AJ Lee
Top section has a nice thick layer of moss.

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari
Main Cliff
18 ~19 Roadweary Sport 20m, 9
Wilson
Only fell once this time, last time was bolt to bolt

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
27 Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.

 
27 Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

 
27 Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Alexei Drummond
First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls
21 Galaxy Grovel - with James Wuu Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Joyce
Need to work on smearing for the lower bit and holding tension on the upper. Such awkward, diabolical fun.

 
18 ~19 Star Gazer - with James Wuu Sport 18m, 5 Good
Joyce
Defeated by an 18.

 
22 Easy Lay - with James Wuu Sport 20m, 10 Good
Joyce
Now cleaned. Pulled out clumps every move… to reveal slime underneath for some spicy bridging.

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari
Main Cliff
18 Power Pack Sport 8m, 3
Kelly T
repeat

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
27 Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Ryan Yang
Had a great time figuring this one out.

 
Fri 10th May 2024 - Wharepapa Rock
Lower Tier
5 Ain't Nothin' To It — 37 attempts Top rope 7m Mega Classic
Quinn Edmondson
OH MY GOLLY GOSH FINALLY!!!! SUCH A SICK PROJECT, ONE OF THE FINEST I'VE SENT. WOW I'M SUCH A GOOD CLIMBER ))))

 
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders
The Forest Rusty Bucket Boulder
V4 Rusty Bucket Boulder Very Good
David Jefferson
Felt hard but maybe I just had bad beta.

 
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders
The Forest Forest Cliff
V4 High Heels Boulder 2m Very Good
David Jefferson
Slopier than expected.

 
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders
The Forest Butternut Squash Boulder
V1 Butternut Boulder 2m Classic
David Jefferson
This rock is so cool and unique. I doubt you’ll find water worn basalt like this anywhere else, unless kauri also grow there.

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls
Upstream Walls Spider Wall
V1 Left Traverse — 5 attempts Boulder
Jaron Faber
This boulder is hard! I started about 3 metres to the right of the topo drawn here. What I thought was the “prominent side pull” and made it past the topo’s drawn start where I hit micro crimps + no feet + overhang. So idk, I could be doing it wrong, wouldn’t be the first time. But by far the most fun of the mclarens boulders I tried.

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls
Upstream Walls The Alcove
V1 Candlestick Boulder
Jaron Faber
i liked the high foot to top out on this one

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls
Upstream Walls Claw Corner
V3 Cat Scratch — 3 attempts Boulder
Jaron Faber
finger crack start was harder for me than it should have been, but easy after the start

 
V2 Paper Cut Boulder
Jaron Faber
top out is tricky, i popped up a little bit to the left of where the topo said. nothing but bare wet slippy rock to the right where the topo lines go up.

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipari
Bulge Gully The Wave Wall
20 Unknown 2 Sport 10m, 2
Gareth
Very seriously dispute that this is 22. More like 20. Particularly if I can onsight it. Sharp as anything though!

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipari
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall
22 Mister Daddy Long Legs Sport 20m, 5 Classic
Gareth
Finally knocked it off. Not sure how, but got it together and didn't come off

 
19 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
Gareth
Good warmup, shaky start, but a solid finish

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff The Arches
27 Easy Hiroshima — 2 attempts Sport 26m Very Good
Mark C
Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Ti Point
The Amphitheatre
19 C.J.D Arete Sport 20m, 5 Good
Fynn
Also kinda cruxy

 
23 The Whiskey Delta Trilogy Sport 20m, 4 Mega Classic
Fynn
Incredible, it climbs like a bay route

 
17 The Angel of Calcutta Sport 20m, 6 Good
Fynn
Kinda cruxy

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Ti Point
The Arch
19/20 Devil of Delhi Sport 20m, 6 Mega Classic
Fynn
So lovely

 
18 The Angry Sea and the Sky Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Fynn
Cool exposure

 
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipari
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall
24 Spurt — 4 attempts Sport 10m, 4 Good
AJ Lee
havent been on in a bit, put draws and worked moves. Lack power endurance to redpoint - powered out by the time I reach the dorito

 
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Millenium Wall
18 Millennium Madness - with Jacob Kuchler Trad 15m Classic
Max Warren
Climbs so well, such an awesome climb

 
25 RotoVegas - with Jacob Kuchler Mixed trad 30m, 2
Max Warren
Cool climb, last moves where impossible to pull,…… today

 
Sat 4th May 2024 - Maratoto
No Fly Zone
25 Falkor Sport 20m, 10 Mega Classic
Clément S
Yay! Just needed Iker Sustatxa on belay

 
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari
Bete Noire Wall
23 Bete Noire Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Felt hard in the sweaty conditions. But maybe I just suck at pockets.

 
25 Ma Garta La Narta Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
This was a big nope for me in the sun today. Wow, I am weak on pockets.

 
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall
23 Swell Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Felt quite a bit easier than Bête Noir, but still quite good.

 
24 Spurt Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Love the committing throw to the lip, definitely a leap of faith for me!

 
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari
Main Cliff
18 Terror Incognito Sport 25m, 10 Classic
David Jefferson
How good is this route!

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 ascents.

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