Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||||
23 | ★★ Opel - with Ryan Yang | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. Thought I had gotten through the first crux but let my guard down standing up after having done the hard moves and fell. I tried the start again but then hung at the second bolt. Then worked out the moves to the top.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ The Wrath of God - with Ryan Yang | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not the best idea trying to flash this for the warm-up. Fell in the crux around 4th bolt. Then pulled on and went to the top.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Echo Gully LAD Pinnicle | |||||||
24 | ★★ L.A.D | 8m, 2 | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | |||||||
23 | ★ Lunatic | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hung at first bolt. Then to top. Quite hard boulder problem for a 23.
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23 | ★ Lunatic | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. First three moves are fine. Then there are a couple of really hard moves. From first bolt it’s a walk.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ Direct Action | 15m, 4 | |||||
This is one to come back to, surprised to unlock the first sequence.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Red Block | |||||||
26 | ★★ Totalling Dad's Car | 8m, 3 | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
27 | ★★★ Automatic Dour | 15m, 4 | |||||
Project shopping 🛍
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Brontosaurus Theory - with felia, Eliezar Finley, scarlett, louvelle, xavier | 12m, 5 | |||||
Took several frustrating tries before I got the beta for the first boulder problem. Was hoping to come back to try more but didn’t get the time today.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★ TE6A — 4 attempts | 20m, 5 | |||||
Gets harder towards the top…
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Fri 31st May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
17 Easy | ★ Aja - with James Brady | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 25th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime - with Ruthie, Caitlin, AJ Lee | 11m, 3 | |||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
working moves, wrist needs more healing for the top
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found it pretty spooky, keen to go back for the redpoint!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | |||||
Very fun. Messed up the sequence just before the anchors
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18 | ★ Roadweary - with David Brancalion, Xena Telequido, Stephen Leong | 20m, 9 | |||||
Lots of lichen on the slab. Took my time to find feet
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19 | ★★ Climatic Extension | 25m, 11 | |||||
Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
26 | ★ Theropod - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Got surprisingly far accounted to all the on lookers. Super cryptic climb that would require some goes just to figure out the body positions
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27 | ★★ Batman - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked the top move to understand the tension required. Just need to be sure of the lower crux and it's ready for send goes.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★ Roadweary - with Moo, HyeonJoo | 20m, 9 | |||||
gotta log your dogs
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
dropknee
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
16 ~18 | ★ Bonne Anne | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a second tie-in with second pre-clipped to make trying the boulder a bit more pleasant. Definitely made some progress, but eventually just pulled up to jug and climbed to top to clean since wanted to get David on Dodor before it got too late.
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25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked out some beta on the bottom boulder. Seems harder than 25, but maybe this is a V5 with good beta.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem - with David Jefferson | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with Alexei Drummond | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Very cryptic boulder problem that I came relatively close to solving, but alas, time was short. Reminiscent of Steaming Wally at Kangaroo Point, the other dingy urban quarry crag I’m familiar with.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Xena Telequido | 28m, 11 | |||||
24 | ★★ Lizard King | 20m, 7 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
got stuck on the triangle hold part
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Predator | 12m, 5 | |||||
Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lizard King — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | |||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Toby Jackson, Daniel Smith | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a climb! Great moves. Thank you for encouraging me to try Daniel Smith
I couldn't get it first try and my foot popped! Move felt easy second try. Would love to come back. |
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Year of the Monkey - with Stephen Leong | 20m, 6 | |||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Fossil Free Zone - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Grovelled up and worked out the beta. Also ripped a flake off the main wall. Still climbs the same
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
22 | ★★ Predator | 12m, 5 | |||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overall good session with everyone making substantial progress. Gratz Braden on your first 27, at Waipapa no less 👍
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lizard King — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk — 4 attempts - with Fergus Roache, Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt sick and couldn't work out the mini-crux, eventually sorted out the beta!Found the top section scary and committing.
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sidewinder | 61m, 17 | |||||
Thought i had tried this before, but i was on an entirely different route ahah, good fun hangdogging and not trying too hard
I can now see why its a classic though
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with Joyce | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Joyce | 18m, 5 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto | |||||||
No Fly Zone | |||||||
26 | ★★ Mr Crimps | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Sheridan Hills | |||||||
Flying Cow Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Fire and Ice | 15m, 9 | |||||
Hung at a bolt to work out the sequence, fun moves.
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, Braden Van Leer | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.
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27 | ★★ Batman — 3 attempts - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got all moves this session. Middle is dialed with the two hard moves being hard (duh)
A contender for my first 27
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto | |||||||
No Fly Zone | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Le Stix - with Iker Sustatxa | 35m, 14 | |||||
Did the crux and a few moves after that. Route cleaned thanks to Iker!
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
17 ~19 | ★★ The Angel of Calcutta | 20m, 6 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ The Appendix | 13m, 4 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto | |||||||
No Fly Zone | |||||||
22 | ★★ Atreyu — 3 attempts - with Clément S | 25m, 10 | |||||
Not enough juice on the overhang.
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
21 | ★★ Fight or Slight | 15m, 5 | |||||
Fri 17th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk | 20m, 8 | |||||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Love Vigilante Boulder | |||||||
28 | ★ Love Vigilante - with Albie Thomas | ★ Good | |||||
holy shit the holds are whimsical but usable
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Lightning Traverse | 15m, 1 | |||||
19 | ★ Liang Fen Liangfen | 12m | |||||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 | ★★ Hiroshima - with Elspeth Napier | 26m | |||||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Mister Daddy Long Legs | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Welcome Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Ventura Highway
1
19
30m
2
16
12m
3
19
13m
4
19
30m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | |||||
18 ~19 | ★ Roadweary | 20m, 9 | |||||
Only fell once this time, last time was bolt to bolt
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Buck Rock | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Au Revoir | 25m, 6 | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Echo Gully LAD Pinnicle | |||||||
24 Easy | ★★ L.A.D | 8m, 2 | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with James Wuu | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Need to work on smearing for the lower bit and holding tension on the upper. Such awkward, diabolical fun.
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18 ~19 | ★ Star Gazer - with James Wuu | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Defeated by an 18.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with James Wuu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Now cleaned. Pulled out clumps every move… to reveal slime underneath for some spicy bridging.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Bete Noire Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Sun Strike | 15m, 7 | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Ryan Yang | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Sheridan Hills | |||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Hebe — 2 attempts | 30m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
17 | ★ Secret Squirrel | 20m, 6 | |||||
Thu 9th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Climatic Conclusion | 20m, 7 | |||||
Mon 6th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Monsterpiece Theatre - with AJ Lee, Clément | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 6th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt - with AJ Lee, Clément | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 6th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||||
18 | ★ Cowabunga - with Caitlin | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls | |||||||
Upstream Walls Spider Wall | |||||||
V1 | Left Traverse — 5 attempts | ||||||
This boulder is hard! I started about 3 metres to the right of the topo drawn here. What I thought was the “prominent side pull” and made it past the topo’s drawn start where I hit micro crimps + no feet + overhang. So idk, I could be doing it wrong, wouldn’t be the first time. But by far the most fun of the mclarens boulders I tried.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
19 | ★★ Quarry Climbing | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 | ★★ Hiroshima — 2 attempts | 26m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★ Dogs Breakfast | 17m, 7 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Lay Back and Enjoy It | 12m, 6 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt — 4 attempts | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
havent been on in a bit, put draws and worked moves. Lack power endurance to redpoint - powered out by the time I reach the dorito
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24 | ★★ Brontosaurus Theory | 12m, 5 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Bete Noire Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Sun Strike | 15m, 7 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | |||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | |||||||
26 | ★ Torquemada | 15m, 7 | Average | ||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ RotoVegas - with Jacob Kuchler | 30m, 2 | |||||
Cool climb, last moves where impossible to pull,…… today
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Scrack | 12m, 6 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Maratoto | |||||||
No Fly Zone | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Le Stix — 2 attempts - with Clément S | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic |