Ascents in The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows having Beta

Warm up. Hollow flake is spooky.

Chossy

Great apart from the weird mantle into bushes at the top

Start felt hard for the grade, maybe went too direct and starting right of bolt line is the way to go? The rest went down nicely onsite.

broke a hole near bottom

Bottom getting into the groove is harder than 15

Arete and groove climbing at the base, move forward to the right around 3rd bolt. Slopers are food at the right angles. Super dirty, would be a solid climb if it was clean.

I thought I was onsighting this but turns out I've already climbed it 😂 one nice hand jam

Definitely not the best route on the wall

:—-)

Solid hands when you know where they are, odd feet. spikey good slopers.

not amazing but good warm up

No decent gear until just over half way, then good gear. Nice side pulls

A one move wonder.

anchor at top is abit rusty

Cruising

Contrived one move wonder. Much easier with better crimps chalked.

Perfectly bolted 😉

Runout as! Not too bad if the first bolt is clipped. Middle is easy. Some committing moves to the anchor.

Runout warmup on crumbly holds

Really good warmup, even though only 2 bolts on the route, they are placed perfectly

Almost got the flash but fell near the top! Was ok once I found the holds.

Bit thin for a warm up!

#2ndGo

Nice introduction to the black wall

Got pumped and messed up the crux both times

Nice and sustained.

Confusing bolting on this section of wall, but a decent warm up.

A lot better than it looks from the ground.

Surprise flash! Thought I'd flail, should've led it

Stiff first few moves then relatively easy

Had to fight to stay on at the top, pumpy!

Stupidly fell above the crux.

Probably a touch soft for the grade with our beta, but it does involve some fierce crimping. I actually really liked this line, definitely adds value to the crag. Second ascent?

Repeat. Really fun.

A bit wandery and dirty, but nice climbing.

De-mossed and dried the bottom section, then lowered and flashed from the second bolt to the anchor. Really good climbing and clean now, deserves more attention! Probably the first ascent since the earthquakes.

Tasty crimping.

23 seems more fair than the 24 in Tony's guide. Some powerful moves.

Powerful and pumpy. Encroaches on the route to the left a bit, seems contrived to not go left then back right at the 4th bolt

Great moves through the lower corner, with crispy crimping above.

Power endurance pump fest, no hard moves though. Ended up stick cliping the first bolt (definately recommended) and took the coward's exit at the very top 🤷🏻‍♂️

Terribly bolted and significantly harder than 21.

Poor rock quality at the start, but the upper face is crimpy goodness.

Dry fired unexpectedly off of slopey edge at the last bolt.

#2ndGo felt much more solid pulling through the bulge. Still a bit ropey in the crimpy section but just committed to a sequence