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Ascents in The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows having Beta

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Showing all 78 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 20th Apr 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
19 Hard Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Good
Thibaut
Repeat. One move at half way is hard for the grade.

 
23 Tarn Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Thibaut
Smooth send first go today, gear on. Almost classic.

 
23 Hard Swan Song — 3 attempts Sport 12m, 6 Good
Thibaut
V4ish boulder problem down low into enjoyable 19ish climbing to the top. Feels about 23ish? Doesn’t look like much from the ground but worth doing, actually.

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
20 Learning to Fly - with Slackaction, jemima Sport 15m, 7 Don't Bother
siâny
hanged like a dawg

 
19 Winky The One Eyed Snake - with Slackaction, jemima Sport 10m, 4 Good
siâny
:—-)

 
16 Blinky The Three Eyed Fish - with Slackaction, jemima Sport 7m, 4 Good
siâny
not amazing but good warm up

 
19 Between The Lines - with Slackaction, jemima Sport 15m, 6 Good
siâny
good stuff

 
20 Easy Learning to Fly - with Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Thibaut
Repeat

 
19 Winky The One Eyed Snake - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego Sport 10m, 4 Average
Slackaction
Definitely not the best route on the wall

 
19 Easy Half Man, Half Biscuit - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego Sport 15m, 2 Very Good
Slackaction
Really good warmup, even though only 2 bolts on the route, they are placed perfectly

 
20 Learning to Fly - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego Sport 15m, 7 Classic
Slackaction
Sick climbing! Good fun

 
23 New Years Revolution - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
Slackaction
Cool climbing! Slopey roof, blew the crux move being too dynamic

 
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
21 Hard Tension Head — 2 attempts - with Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 6 Good
Thibaut
Quite balancy down low and then power endurance finish on the head wall. Packs a lot for a short climb.

 
23 Easy Stepping Out — 3 attempts Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Thibaut
Cruxy getting over the bulge down low, then goey to the top.

 
19 Hard Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Thibaut
Pretty varied with some nice face climbing down low and some laybacking in the corner at the top.

 
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
23 Navel Gazing Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
TG
Powerful and pumpy. Encroaches on the route to the left a bit, seems contrived to not go left then back right at the 4th bolt

 
23 Tarn Sport 15m, 5 Classic
TG
Nice moves. Almost flashed but pumped out at the last tricky crimps

 
19 ~20 Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
TG
A bit close to the trad corner at the top, but nice

 
19 Exceeding The Quota Sport 5 Crap
TG
Steep chossy rock. One of the worst sport routes I've done recently

 
16 Crispy Corner Trad Average
TG
Unprotected with dodgy rock until the corner starts at half way, then good protection and nice stemming. I clipped the first two bolts on the route to the left

 
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
22 Attitudes and Platitudes Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
Confusing bolting on this section of wall, but a decent warm up.

 
26 Carl’s Car Wash Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
David Jefferson
Repeat. Really fun.

 
24 Spice Up Your Life Sport 15m, 6 Good
David Jefferson
A bit wandery and dirty, but nice climbing.

 
21 Bolting With The Dolphins Sport 15m, 4 Don't Bother
David Jefferson
Terribly bolted and significantly harder than 21.

 
26 Game of Stones Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
Repeat. Reasonably sustained and enjoyable.

 
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
22 Pin Cushion Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
TG
Surprise flash! Thought I'd flail, should've led it

 
21 Hard If Jenny Craig Could See Me Now — 2 attempts Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
TG
Got pumped and messed up the crux both times

 
22 ~21 Dreaming of Dry Rocks Sport 15m, 5 Don't Bother
TG
Contrived one move wonder. Much easier with better crimps chalked.

 
15 The Uprooter Trad Good
TG
No decent gear until just over half way, then good gear. Nice side pulls

 
17 Kelvinator Crack Sport 10m, 5 Average
TG
I thought I was onsighting this but turns out I've already climbed it 😂 one nice hand jam

 
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
19 Aplomb - with Alex Popinga Sport 12m, 5 Average
Alexei Drummond
Warm up. Hollow flake is spooky.

 
23 Stepping Out - with Alex Popinga, ben Sport 15m, 6 Good
Alexei Drummond
#2ndGo felt much more solid pulling through the bulge. Still a bit ropey in the crimpy section but just committed to a sequence

 
23 Stepping Out - with Alex Popinga, ben Sport 15m, 6 Good
Alexei Drummond
Dry fired unexpectedly off of slopey edge at the last bolt.

 
19 Half Man, Half Biscuit - with Alex Popinga, ben Sport 15m, 2 Good
Alexei Drummond
Runout warmup on crumbly holds

 
22 Dreaming of Dry Rocks - with Alex Popinga, ben Sport 15m, 5 Good
Alexei Drummond
Cruising

 
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
23 Easy New Years Revolution — 2 attempts - with Simon, Richard Flinn Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
Thibaut
Hidden gem. Climbs much better than it looks.

 
20 Easy Learning to Fly - with Simon, Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Thibaut
Repeat

 
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
22 Hard Dreaming of Dry Rocks Sport 15m, 5 Good
Nic (Wizard)
anchor at top is abit rusty

 
21 Hard Pink Palette Pulling — 3 attempts Sport 12m, 4
Nic (Wizard)
broke a hole near bottom

 
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
21 If Jenny Craig Could See Me Now - with Alex Popinga Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Nice introduction to the black wall

 
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
24 ~24 Game of Stones — 2 attempts - with Simon Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Thibaut
Maybe a solid 24 with the beta fully dialed? Wouldn't be a pushover at that grade though, especially if you're going for the onsite. 4 attempts over 2 sessions.

 
22 Hugs And Drugs - with Simon Sport 15m, 4 Good
Thibaut
Power endurance pump fest, no hard moves though. Ended up stick cliping the first bolt (definately recommended) and took the coward's exit at the very top 🤷🏻‍♂️

 
21 Pink Palette Pulling — 2 attempts - with Simon Sport 12m, 4 Good
Thibaut
Start felt hard for the grade, maybe went too direct and starting right of bolt line is the way to go? The rest went down nicely onsite.

 
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
21 If Jenny Craig Could See Me Now — 2 attempts Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Thibaut
 
Tue 13th Dec 2022 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
25 Rodeo Corner — 2 attempts - with Tony Burnell Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
David Jefferson
De-mossed and dried the bottom section, then lowered and flashed from the second bolt to the anchor. Really good climbing and clean now, deserves more attention! Probably the first ascent since the earthquakes.

 
24 Galvanised Action - with Tony Burnell Sport 15m, 7 Good
David Jefferson
Had to fight to stay on at the top, pumpy!

 
21 The Power Of Piss - with Tony Burnell Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
Nice and sustained.

 
21 If Jenny Craig Could See Me Now - with Tony Burnell Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Bit thin for a warm up!

 
Sat 26th Nov 2022 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
20 Learning to Fly Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
TG
Great climb

 
21 Tension Head Sport 15m, 6 Good
TG
Nice climb, but a bit close to the 20 in places.

 
19 ~20 Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Good
TG
A bit close to the crack at the top, not sure whether it's meant to be in.

 
23 Navel Gazing Sport 15m, 6 Good
TG
23 seems more fair than the 24 in Tony's guide. Some powerful moves.

 
21 Hard If Jenny Craig Could See Me Now Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
TG
Almost got the flash but fell near the top! Was ok once I found the holds.

 
19 Half Man, Half Biscuit Sport 15m, 2 Good
TG
Runout as! Not too bad if the first bolt is clipped. Middle is easy. Some committing moves to the anchor.

 
Fri 8th Apr 2022 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
26 Game of Stones Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
Came quite close to the flash, just got a bit out of sequence through the crux.

 
26 Game of Stones Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
Went down easily second go. Probably a touch soft at the grade if you can pull hard on bad holds.

 
23 Stepping Out Sport 15m, 6 Good
David Jefferson
Poor rock quality at the start, but the upper face is crimpy goodness.

 
22 Pin Cushion Sport 15m, 7 Good
David Jefferson
A lot better than it looks from the ground.

 
19 Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Good
David Jefferson
Warm up.

 
Sat 12th Mar 2022 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
26 Carl’s Car Wash - with Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
David Jefferson
Stupidly fell above the crux.

 
26 Carl’s Car Wash - with Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
David Jefferson
Probably a touch soft for the grade with our beta, but it does involve some fierce crimping. I actually really liked this line, definitely adds value to the crag. Second ascent?

 
20 Naval - with Richard Flinn Sport 12m, 5 Average
David Jefferson
Actually kind of fun, but ugly as.

 
22 Hugs And Drugs - with Richard Flinn Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Great moves through the lower corner, with crispy crimping above.

 
Tue 21st Dec 2021 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
21 Tension Head (Richard Kimberley) Sport 15m, 6 Good
David Jefferson
Stiff for the grade, and a bit gritty.

 
23 Tarn Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Repeat. Excellent route.

 
22 A Slice Of Life Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
David Jefferson
Climbing this on Tony’s 40 year old Chouinard wires made this one more interesting than it otherwise would have been.

 
Sat 25th Sep 2021 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
23 Tarn Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Excellent, thought provoking climbing, and a touch bold on the upper head wall.

 
19 Between The Lines Sport 15m, 6 Good
David Jefferson
Not super memorable, but reasonably good.

 
19 Half Man, Half Biscuit Sport 15m, 2 Good
David Jefferson
Perfectly bolted 😉

 
20 Learning to Fly Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
David Jefferson
Stellar climbing at the grade, a must do for a Port Hills 20.

 
23 Navel Gazing Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
David Jefferson
Tasty crimping.

 
22 Dreaming of Dry Rocks Sport 15m, 5 Good
David Jefferson
A one move wonder.

 
Sat 9th Jan 2021 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
15 17 Kelvinator Crack (Grubbies Bolted Groove) - with Emma Gulliver Sport 10m, 5 Average
nicole plewinski
Arete and groove climbing at the base, move forward to the right around 3rd bolt. Slopers are food at the right angles. Super dirty, would be a solid climb if it was clean.

 
16 Blinky The Three Eyed Fish - with Emma Gulliver Sport 7m, 4 Good
nicole plewinski
Solid hands when you know where they are, odd feet. spikey good slopers.

 
Sat 14th Nov 2020 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
15 16 Camelot Corner Sport 12m, 4 Don't Bother
TG
Chossy

 
19 Miro Sport 5 Very Good
TG
Great apart from the weird mantle into bushes at the top

 
15 17 Kelvinator Crack (Grubbies Bolted Groove) Sport 10m, 5 Average
TG
Bottom getting into the groove is harder than 15

 
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
19 Dangelina Jolie Trad 10m
Steve Brown
first attempt at crack climbing needs lots of work

 

Showing all 78 ascents.

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