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The Keep

21

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Description

The 22 February 2011 Christchurch earthquake caused major damage to this crag. There has been major rockfall and many loose blocks remain. With aftershocks an added hazard, please stay clear.

Access issues inherited from Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock

The Feb 2011 earthquakes caused significant damage to the area. Loose rocks remain. Extra care and helmets essential.

Routes

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Grade Route

Short groove on left side of wall. Minimal pro.

FA: Lindsay Main, 1978

Line of bolts leading up and left from the DBB on the party ledge. Goes around the arête to the slabs and then finishes at DBB at the top of Birth Canal. Can be climbed more directly and a little harder using some trad straight up the crack and then rejoining the route. Great exposure if you climb the arête to the top after the crack.

FA: 2018

Start as for Keepless at DBB on the Party Ledge. Climb slab up to pedestal then with difficulty up shallow groove up to big ledge before the top. Clip bolt then move out right onto face to top out with a couple of big moves.

FA: David Radzyner, 2018

Start up Reincarnation. After the big move, go left and then finish up Birth Canal.

FA: David Radzyner, 2019

Technical stemming up the main corner with a big move and then some spicy moves on crimps at the top. At the last bolt, either continue straight up or mantle onto the ledge to the right. Both recommended.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Start up Reincarnation to 1st bolt and then traverse across right on the "fangs" to the arête. The route finishes there but can be linked into Hang on Man.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Can be started at either the Party Ledge on the left side or the Half Height Ledge on the right side. Climb the arête deviating to use the pedestal ledge on Hung Drawn and Quartered then moving back on to the arête, climbing mostly on the left side, to a crux at the top before reaching the ledge at the top of Reincarnation. Fantastic exposure.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Start at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb the slab to the left up onto the pedestal. Step left onto the arête and clip the next bolt then move right into the groove, then follow 2 bolts to beneath the big roof. Finish by climbing up onto the ledge to the right of big roof and then to DBB on the top. Watch for sharp edge on ledge when lowering. It has claimed one rope already. Some work has now been done to dull the edge.

FA: David Radzyner, 2018

Start as for Falling Buttress at DBB. Climb slab to the left then traverse right out above roof. Climb line of bolts up the groove in the middle of the face, finishing with a mantle onto a ledge right of the big roof.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Starts at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb slab up to the left of the roof and then traverse right back above the roof passing 3 bolts until you reach the farthest right line of bolts. Climb up clipping 3 more bolts and then wires or cams to top out at DBB on a ledge.

FA: 2018

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1982

FA: Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: John Allen, 1980

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1981

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Rob Rainsbury, 1971

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: John Barnett, 1974

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Murray Judge, 1973

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

Closed

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

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Mon 15 May
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