Routes in Chinaman's Bluff

P1 - (17, 20m, 6b) climb the black slab, tending right to the anchors.

P2 - (18, 32m, 1b + gear) clip the bolt at the start, then follow the crack. Rock over the right side at the first small roof to the crack on the face. DBA above the tree.

P3 - (18, 30m, gear only) climb the right-trending crack until it disappears, then cross the right arete to another fist crack. DBA on a ledge by a tree.

P4 - (20, 30m, 8b + gear) up the crack to your left leading to some sustained face climbing on bolts. Belay off trees above the DBA.

Traverse right for 30 metres to a DBA at the bottom of a steep, white, bolted arete.

P5 - (17, 20m, 8b) up the arete then traverse right to DBA.

P6 - (16, 32m, 6b + gear) face climbing right of the arete, with some cracks for pro after the 3rd bolt. Tree belay on a big ledge.

P7 - (16, 20m, 6b) climb the slab on your left, past a ledge then right to another tree belay. Belay from here, then carefully scramble right and up (past another tree with rap tat: 35m+ rap from here to bottom of P7) to the base of the headwall. Move 15m right to an obvious wide crack, which is the start of P8.

P8 - (20, 32m, 4b + gear) steep crack climbing into a sustained and overhanging face on bolts. A classic pitch!

Descent: From the top, descend to the bottom of P5 then traverse left past the top of P4 to the rap station above the top of Chink in Shining Armour. Rap to the top of Chink in Shining Armour then down the route to the bottom (triple chain anchors). Can be done with one 70m rope, or an uncut 60m with care.

Gear: A full rack of nuts and cams is essential. Doubles in the Camalot #0.4-#3 range are useful for P2 and 3. Take a few metres of cord to replace tree belays on the top three pitches.

A classy technical face climb forking left halfway up P2 of The Ravages of Time. Almost all sport; bring a slimmed down rack for the 15m of gear on P2.

P1 (6 bolts) - climb the first pitch of The Ravages of Time

P2 (5 bolts + gear) - climb the first 15m of P2 of The Ravages of Time through 1 bolt off the belay and gear before veering left (2m before a roof) at a ledge to continue up and left through 4 bolts to a hanging belay.

P3 (10 bolts) - steepening face climbing through an overlap (crux) before easing off to the next hanging belay

P4 (11 bolts) - cruisey face climbing veering right on good edges through the first 7 or 8 bolts before thinning out and veering back left for the final few bolts (crux)

It is possible to climb from the last anchor of Chink in Shining Armour to the rappel station on the halfway ledge, but requires climbing another ~10m through some dirty rock and plants protected by slinging trees (no bolts). Safer to link into this from P4.

Descent: Rappel down the anchors used on the way up in 2x50m rappels or 3x30m rappels

As of March 2022, this route was dirty with some moss on the face holds and vegetation in the cracks. With a proper clean the climbing would be really enjoyable however in its current state is probably undeserving of 3 stars. Approach - Walk up to Ravages of time and continue from the base of the route Right following a "track" to till you see a DBA at belayers height a few meters further right you will see a left-facing corner start just right following the crack into the corner. P1 - climb up adjacent to the right-facing corner on bolts and gear. Rather dirty pitch.

P2 - Guidebook describes as 'double crack'. Rather it is a single crack that then closes and another opens up slightly to the left. Anchors are up and left of the second crack near the small corner. Sustained thin crack with tricky placements. Takes small cams and nuts. Quite scary if this is your grade.

P3 - The money pitch which unfortunately has a small amount of vegetation in the cracks detracting from its quality. Up obvious crack right of the belay through a small roof, continuing up to moss-covered face clipping 2 bolts. Continue straight up through vegetation to ledge and chains.

P4 - Head upright trending crack to ledge and chains. Dirty pitch.

On the Programme P2 right variant.