Wye Creek Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Wye Creek 297 routes in Crag

1 2

1 North Side 2 South Side

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.119328, 168.789405

summary

Exposure and amazing views

approach

Follow the highway out of Queenstown towards Milford Sound. The entrance is a small gate with a sign. Be sure to close the gate behind you.

Wye Creek - Approach1.JPG

Follow the small road up to a grassy area where you can park your car, or if you have a 4WD keep going up to the top, there is space for 2 or 3 cars closer to the track entrance.

Once up the top you'll see a sign saying track and toilet.

Wye Creek - Approach2.JPG

Follow these signs and you'll pass a toilet. It's the last one so keep that in mind.

Wye Creek - Approach3.JPG

This is the track to all of the walls at Wye Creek

where to stay

Queenstown has plenty of accommodation. Camping is not permitted due to private land.

1.1. North Side 141 routes in Crag

1 3 4 11 12 10 8 2 6 5 9 7

1 French Kiss Wall 2 Black Wall 3 Sleeping Giant Wall 4 Project Wall 5 Eweniverse Wall 6 The Cell Block 7 Homage Wall 8 Hidden Wall 9 Bush Wall 10 Admiral Wall 11 Wow City 12 Rainbow Wall

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137543, 168.769389

summary

The North Side offers a mix of moderate to hard routes on everything from slabs to roofs. Some walls are steep enough to remain dry in the rain.

approach

From the Wye Creek carpark, walk up the 4WD track to the Queenstown Climbing Club toilet and the start of the track.

1.1.1. French Kiss Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137006, 168.765628

approach

From the end of the 4WD track, walk up and left to a steep slope leading to the cliff.

1.1.2. Black Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137909, 168.766172

description

100m down the walking track from the end of the 4WD track.

1.1.3. Sleeping Giant Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137556, 168.765838

description

Short and steep routes.

approach

Follow the faint trail left of Black Wall.

1.1.4. Project Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137554, 168.769079

approach

10 minutes from Black Wall, leave the track when it levels and walk left under the pipe. Walk on the pipe back 20m to reach the trail to the cliff.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Vladaharama FA: Andy Mills, 2002	20	Mixed trad 20m, 5
2		Connoisseur FA: Josh Greer, 2017	26	Sport 17m, 7
3		Smoke Yourself Fitter FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2000	20	Mixed trad 15m, 1
4		Smoke it to the Top FA: Niall Muller, 2010	20	Trad 15m
5		★ Mal de Mer The short steep crack FA: Guillaume Charton, 2010	24	Sport 15m, 6
6		★★ Eat Yourself Fitter Route with Permadraws - big moves on big holds FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1999	25	Sport 22m, 8
7		★ Mac Attack FA: Thomas van den Berg & Michal Karnik, 2012	27	Sport 25m, 8
8		★★★ Boss Combo Start right of EYF. Traverse to right face until reaching no-hands rest then steep grunty moves and run it out before sharing two last bolts of right climb. FA: Thomas van den Berg & Michal Karnik, 2012	28	Sport 25m, 8
9		★★★ Sensei Set: Aaron Ford FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2016	29	Sport 31m, 13
10		Zone d'Avalanche FA: Pat Deavoll, 1999	25	Mixed trad 30m, 5
11		★ Avalanche Debris FA: Niall Muller, 2012	23	Mixed trad 30m, 2
12		★★ Rgrgrgrgr FA: Guillaume Charton, 2010	24	Sport 20m, 6
13		★ Speight's Odyssey arete FA: Troy Kirwan, 1999	24	Sport 25m, 7
14		★★ Edge FA: Aaron Ford, 2016	23	Sport 28m, 8
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
15		★★★ Blood On The Tracks Sustained face climbing FA: Russ McRae, 1997	23	Sport 27m, 10
16		★★★ Xenalasia Xenelasia was the practice in ancient Doric Crete and Lacedæmonia of expelling foreigners deemed injurious to the public welfare. Shares start as BOTT. Veer right from ledge just to the right of BOTT. Slither your way up on small holds. FA: Ian Binnie, 1997	25	Sport 27m, 13
17		Rogan Josh FA: Pat Deavoll, 1997	23	Sport 24m, 8
18		Tikka To Ride FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004	26	Sport 24m, 8

1.1.5. Eweniverse Wall 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.138009, 168.769241

approach

15 minutes up the track from Black Wall, go under the pipe and around a sharp bend to the left.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Left Side
2		★ Kaipai Arete Anchor is 2 bolt hanger, no ring. FA: Dave Bolger, 2007	21	Sport 30m, 2, 12
3		★ Bday FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2007	19	Sport 20m, 8
4		Wafer FA: Reese Doyle, 2008	24	Sport 20m, 8
5		★★ Equilibrium FA: Sally Ford & Aaron Ford, 2003	24	Sport 22m, 9
6		★ End of the Eweniverse FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	22	Sport 20m, 5
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★ Hurricane Set: Rupert Gardiner FA: Derek Thatcher, 2009	29	Sport 12m, 7
8		★ Fat Boy FA: Michal Karnik, 2013	30	Sport 14m, 8
9		King's Collection FA: Daniel Krippner, 2016	31	Sport 15m, 9
Right Side
11		★ Smoking Barrels FA: Aaron Ford, 2002	25	Sport 20m, 8
12		Smoking Barrels Extension FA: Aaron Ford, 2002	27	Sport 25m, 6
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
13		Sunset Boulevard FA: Aaron Ford & Tony Burnell, 2008	26	Sport 20m, 8
14		★ Epoxy Passion FA: Ian Binnie, Russ McRae & Neal Withers, 1997	22	Sport 20m, 8
15		★★ Wandering Star FA: Ian Binnie, Russ McRae & Neal Withers, 1997	24	Sport 15m, 8
16		★ The Strip FA: Tony Burnell & Aaron Ford, 2008	18	Sport 17m, 5
17		Snifter FA: Dave Bolger, 2005	22	Sport 20m, 8
18		★ Weapons FA: Ian Binnie, 2004	23	Sport 18m, 7
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
19		★★ Tais-toi! FA: Guillaume Charton, 2005	21	Sport 22m, 9
20		★ Foiled Again FA: Mark Woodward & Dave McKinley, 1998	15	Trad 18m
21		★ Saperlipopette! FA: Guillaume Charton, 2013	20	Sport 18m, 7
22		★ Incy Wincy Spider FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2000	18	Sport 15m, 4
23		★ Incy Wincy Spider / Epoxy Passion Linkup FA: Aaron Ford, 2008	17	Sport 16m, 6
24		★ The Fugitive	17	Trad 15m
25		★ Vas-y Mollo / Easy Tiger FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007	19	Sport 15m, 5
26		★★ Papa G FA: Guillaume Charton, 2015	19	Sport 16m, 6
27		Gravida Prima FA: Guillaume Charton & Mark Dewsbery, 2015	19	Trad 18m
28		Amstramgram Furthest right route on this wall. Shares the same anchor as Papa G. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2017	19	Sport 16m, 4
29		★ Velvet Revolution FA: Michal Karnik, 2012	28	Sport 22m, 9
30		★★ Along Came a Spider Set: Ian Binnie FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2006	26	Sport 10m, 8
31		★ The Expendables FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2007	28	Sport 12m, 5
Whakarui Wall 15m right of Eweniverse Wall
33		The Small English Bogan FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	21	Sport 15m, 5

1.1.6. The Cell Block 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137937, 168.768248

approach

Continue 5 minutes down the track past Black Wall to a small face above a big concrete block.

1.1.7. Homage Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.138348, 168.770178

approach

100m after Eweniverse Wall and 30m before the beech forest. The faint track to the wall starts left of a large concrete block.

1.1.8. Hidden Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137836, 168.770097

approach

Walk 10m left from Henry's Slab on Homage Wall, then up a bushy gully.

1.1.9. Bush Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.138134, 168.770555

description

Crimpy sustained routes.

approach

Continue left at the fork in the track by the hydro dam (marked by a "Route" sign) for 100m.

1.1.10. Admiral Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137814, 168.770938

approach

100m up the track from Bush Wall.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ El Falcon Pasa FA: Guillaume Charton, 2012	19	Sport 10m, 5
2		Chilli Con Falcon FA: Guillaume Charton, 2012	20	Sport 10m, 4
3		Easy Come, Easy Go FA: Aaron Ford & Ian Dee, 2007	23	Sport 10m, 4
4		★★ The Poison FA: Aaron Ford, 2007	22	Sport 12m, 5
5		★ Vinnie Rex FA: Sally Ford, 2008	22	Sport 12m, 5
6		★ The Remedy FA: Aaron Ford, 2007	22	Sport 12m, 4
7		Snappiness FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007	23	Sport 12m, 5
8		★ Year of the Splat Shares start of Frogaroo, go left at first bolt and link into Snappiness. Bouldery version of Frogaroo. FA: Ian Binnie, 1997	23	Sport 12m, 5
9		★ Frogaroo FA: Guillaume Charton & Mick Turnbull, 2007	22	Sport 12m, 5
10		★ Introspection FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007	20	Sport 12m, 5
11		The Perfect Drug FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007	18	Sport 12m, 4

1.1.11. Wow City 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137723, 168.772215

description

Steep crag, good in wet weather.

approach

Continue up the track from Admiral Wall until reaching an orange triangle pointing left to where the track gets steeper. Instead of going left, continue forward down a loose slope to the cliff.

1.1.12. Rainbow Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.137723, 168.772655

description

Painfully steep, crimpy routes. Remains dry in rain, but prone to seepage. Shaded from the sun.

approach

Walk past Wow City for a few minutes.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Rhythm Annihilator FA: Dan Martin, 2002	24	Sport 10m, 3
2		Magic Karma Ride FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2002	25	Sport 8m, 3
3		Leaping Leprechaun FA: Mike Simpson, 2003	27	Sport 9m, 3
4		★★ Arete Up the left side of well featured arete.	23	Sport 12m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
5		★★ Aurora FA: Gordy Watson, 2001	23	Sport 12m, 3
6		★★ Pot of Gold FA: Aaron Ford, 2002	23	Sport 15m, 4
7		★ Wildfire FA: Gordy Watson, 2001	23	Sport 10m, 3
8		★★ Rainbow Connection FA: Dave Bolger, 2003	24	Sport 10m, 3
9		Shoe Route FA: Jodi Apiata, 2003	24	Sport 9m, 3
10		★★ Rainbow Warrior FA: Aaron Ford, 2002	26	Sport 7m, 2
11		★★ ROYGBIV FA: Mike Simpson, 2003	28	Sport 7m, 2
12		★★ Rainbow Child FA: Gordy Watson, 2001	23	Sport 7m, 3
13		★ Punch It! FA: Mike Simpson, 2001	24	Sport 8m, 3

1.2. South Side 156 routes in Crag

9 5 6 4 3 7 2 1 11 8 14 12 16 17

1 The Alcove 2 Zippity Zappity Wall 3 Harold's Wall 4 Main Wall 5 Liver Abuse Buttress 6 Badger Wall 7 Petit Wall 8 Green Aura Wall 9 Little Lucifer 11 The Forgotten 12 Aztec Wall 14 Little Black Wall 16 Pompidou Centre 17 The Wild Side

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.142104, 168.769196

summary

Warm, well bolted crag with amazing views.

approach

From the top of the 4WD track, walk along the trail for 20 minutes until reaching the hydro dam and a "Route" sign. Ignore the sign and cross over the dam, following a boardwalk along the pipes until reaching the crag.

1.2.1. The Alcove 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.142430, 168.771442

description

Next to the waterfall.

approach

100m left of Harold's Wall.

1.2.2. Zippity Zappity Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.142259, 168.771096

approach

50m left of Harold's Wall.

1.2.3. Harold's Wall 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -45.142004, 168.770780

description

Home to some of the steepest routes at Wye Creek. Access the Upper Tier via a ledge and fixed rope from the start of Chimney Sweep.

approach

Follow the trail leading to the Main Wall until reaching a small sign, then turn left.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Lower Tier
2		★★ Fata Morgana Waterfall makes communication difficult. P1 (8b): traverse right from the right side of Zipity Zapity Wall until reaching the bolted belay. P2 (6b): exposed climbing directly above B27 Positive to the top of the big boulder. FA: Ian Binnie & Swenja Stellfeld, 1998	15	Sport 56m, 2, 14
3		Groove Annihilator Steep crack to shared anchor with Babaganoosh. FA: Rupert Gardiner & Andrew Mills	22	Trad 23m
4		Babaganoosh, The Fabulous Freak Powerful moves through the roof to the bulge, but more technical than you might think. FA: Ian Binnie, 1998	24	Sport 15m, 6
5		★★ Lost in Translation FA: Aaron Ford, 2007	24	Sport 20m, 8
6		★★ Groove Rider Up the crack left of Little Rivers to a chimney. FA: Aaron Ford, 2002	19	Trad 30m
7		★ Czech Mafia Climb the right side of the arete, then through the overhang. FA: Michal Karnik, 2013	27	Sport 25m, 9
8		★ Little Rivers Of Anticipation Up a well featured face to a steep finish. Shared anchors with Hard Rain. FA: Ian Binnie, 1998	24	Sport 25m, 8
9		★ Hard Rain Start as for B27 Positive, then tend left to the widest part of the roof. Pull over and finish up the steep headwall. FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	24	Sport 15m, 6
10		★★ B27 Positive FA: Ian Binnie & Russ McRae, 1996	22	Sport 25m, 9
11		★★ Chimney Sweep P1 (11b): up the wide chimney. P2 (7b): climb the corner and finish up Fata Morgana. FA: Aaron Ford & Phill Goss, 2007	16	Sport 58m, 2, 18
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
12		★ Rejection Bridging. FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2002	15	Sport 10m, 4
13		★★ The Prophecy Difficult sequences on relentlessly steep rock. FA: Aaron Ford, 2008	26	Sport 18m, 7
14		★★ Nu Energy Slopey, steep, endurance climbing. FA: Ian Binnie, 1997	24	Sport 20m, 8
15		★★ Oracle FA: Aaron Ford, 2015	26	Sport 24m, 8
16		★ The Vision FA: Ian Binnie, 1996	24	Sport 25m, 9
17		Resolution Climb the brown rock 5m left of the arete. FA: Tony Burnell, 2008	23	Sport 30m, 10
18		★★ Launch Pad To Hype Her Space P1: 8b. P2: 4b. P3: 2b mixed trad. FA: Mark Woodward & Dave McKinley, 1997 FA: Nick Cradock, 1998	24	Mixed trad 60m, 3, 14
Upper Tier Lots of exposure and big moves on overhangs. Access via a ledge and fixed rope from the bottom of Chimney Sweep.
20		★★ Baracuda A 70m rope is a must. FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2016	26	Sport 35m, 13
21		★★ Barophobia FA: Mike Simpson, 2004	26	Sport 25m, 9
22		★★★ Projection FA: Mike Simpson, 2004	26	Sport 20m, 10
23		Projection Direct FA: Michal Karnik, 2012	28	Sport 20m, 10
24		★★★ Massive Erection Set: Aaron Ford FA: Alex Honnold, 2016	26	Sport 20m, 10
25		★ Perry's Other Crack FA: Perry Beckham, 1999	25	Sport 20m, 10
26		★ Massive Attack FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1999	26	Sport 25m, 10
27		★★ Move It Or Lose It FA: Ian Binnie, 1999	24	Sport 25m, 10
28		★ Perry's Crack FA: Perry Beckham, 1999	23	Mixed trad 10m, 1
29		★★ Boulder Fest Start right of Perry's Crack. FA: Tony Burnell, 2010	25	Sport 12m, 6
30		★ Total Eclipse of the Moon Set: Arnaud Forest FA: Michal Karnik, 2014	26	Sport 20m, 7
31		★ Saruman's Disciple FA: Arnaud Forest, 2014	25	Sport 20m, 6
32		Rock Drop Up the left side of a small chimney. FA: Niall Muller, 2010	19	Sport 16m, 7
33		★ TBC Follow right-trending crack to the arete. Can be split into 2 pitches (grade 26, 25) FA: Michal Karnik, 2012	27	Sport 25m, 9
34		★ Stronger than Gravity Crank through the steepest part of the roof, then finish up TBC. FA: Michal Karnik, 2012	29	Sport 12m, 7
35		Leviathan Set: Aaron Ford FA: Thomas van den Berg, 2015	30	Sport 25m, 10
36		★ Mill's Climb Climb the right face of the cleft. FA: Andrew Mills, 2010	20	Sport 18m, 8

1.2.4. Main Wall 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -45.141860, 168.769919

description

The classic crag for the area. If your only here for a day or two this is definitely the crag to check out. Very exposed at approximately 1000 meters and a some of the classics of the area. Don't leave without climbing 'The Mission' Bring a 60m rope and lots (12+) quickdraws

approach

From the top of the road, follow the walking track for approx 20 minutes. You will eventually come to a junction with a sign that says "track" pointing one way and a waterfall the other.

Main Wall - Approach4.JPG

Ignore the sign and follow the bridge across the waterfall.

Main Wall - Approach5.JPG

Continue to follow the water pipe.

Main Wall - Approach6.JPG

Keep folowing until it turns into a walkway.

Main Wall - Approach7.JPG

Follow the walkway all the way to the end. You will eventually come to the main waterfall of Wye Creek. Cross the final bridge then follow the small walking track up to the main wall.

Main Wall - Approach8.JPG

If you are walking on a path that doesn't look well trodden, you are going the wrong way. You will end up at the Main wall, and you will know you are at the arete where 'The Mission' is as there is a small tree there too.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Chimneyphobia Up the chimney. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2009	18	Sport 18m, 6
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★ Leap Frog Climb through the overhang, finishing on a slab. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2010	19	Sport 15m, 6
3		★ Future is Knocking Climb the corner. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2017	16	Trad 13m
4		★ Indecent Exposure Climb up past two bolts on the right face of the corner. Step over onto the left slab and continue to a chain anchor. FA: Sally Ford, 2004	15	Sport 15m, 7
5		★ The Quest Start at the fixed belay anchors at the bottom. Straight up the slab past 5 bolts and lots of holds to a chain anchor. FA: Dave Bolger	16	Sport 13m, 5
6		★ Oh la la! Climb left of a vague arête. Lower off same chain anchor as per TQ. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2013	16	Sport 15m, 5
7		★ Mojo Zone Climb the gentle slab. FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2017	12	Sport 15m, 6
8		★ Unearthed Climb the large crack, then left to bolts. FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2018	12	Mixed trad 31m, 7
9		★★ Awesome Possum Climb the corner to the wide crack, tending left. FA: Diego Moyano & Guillaume Charton, 2017	16	Mixed trad 31m, 7
10		★★ Twelve Climb to the 4th bolt of Almi, then tend left. FA: Sally Ford & Aaron Ford, 2010	17	Sport 31m, 12
11		★★ Almi Climb up a slab to a small overhang. FA: Swenja Stellfeld, 1997	18	Sport 31m, 13
12		★ Alien Resurrection / No More Mr Nice Guy Climb the crack. FA: Steve Carr, 1998	16	Trad 30m
13		Beyond The Pale Start up “88 chocolate treats’ to 4th bolt .Move R to large ledge then up corner left of Bigger than big on good natural pro[wires small friends] .Move onto wall on R when corner blanks out at bushes move R to belay of Bigger than Big. Can also start as for Alien Resurrection FA: cragrat, 1998	16	Mixed trad 30m, 4
14		★★ 88 Chocolate Treats Two meters left of 'Bigger than Big', just next the the small tree. Straight up the face to a small rooflet. Continue through the bulge and left at the overhang with one bolt on it. Follow the large crack to the left and back onto the face for an easy finish at the chain anchor. FA: Swenja Stellford, 1997	19	Sport 31m, 11
15		★ Bigger Than Chocolate Climb up an easy face to a small rooflet. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2017	17	Sport 27m, 9
16		★★ Bigger Than Big Up through a lightly steep section with some great jugs past 2 bolts then a big move up over the bulge. Nice and easy slab climb to finish, though may be a tad run out for a beginner leader. Double ring lower off. FA: Ian Binnie, 1996	18	Sport 28m, 8
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
17		★ La Belle Vie Bouldery moves. FA: Guillaume Charton, 2005	23	Sport 10m, 3
18		★ La Submission Climb up a brown rock to a shared anchor with La Belle Vie FA: Guillaume Charton, 2007	20	Sport 12m, 3
19		★★★ The Mission Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor. FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996	16	Sport 28m, 9
20		★★ Lucalucki Well spaced bolts around cruxes.	18	Sport 32m, 13
21		★★ Don't Be Deceived Face climbing with few bolts. FA: Mark Woodward, 1996	18	Sport 32m, 8
22		No Bro, Bro Climb up the ramp to the base, then up the crack system. FA: Gordy Watson	18	Mixed trad 20m, 2
23		★★ Monsieur Muscle Boulder up to the first bolt, then finish up a steep face. FA: Guillaume Charton & John Burrow, 2012	23	Sport 28m, 9
24		★★ Smellie Crack Climb up an offwidth to a crack, finishing up a small face. FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	20	Sport 25m, 10
25		★ No Holds Barred Start left up the first bolt, climbing up the arete. Veer towards Aratika at the 4th bolt, then back left. FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	22	Sport 27m, 8
26		★★★ Aratika Climb up the sustained arete. FA: Russ McRae, 1996	24	Sport 30m, 10
27		Aramuru Wide chimney right of Aratika. FA: Doug Smelie, 1999	16	Mixed trad 30m, 4
28		★ Up the Creek Climb up the face, then left at the break to shared anchor with Aramuru. FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	18	Sport 30m, 9
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
29		★★ About Time Long slab. FA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996	18	Sport 30m, 13
30		Aroha Clip the two bolts left of the offwidth, then up the crack joining with another crack on the right. FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	17	Mixed trad 25m, 2
31		★ Ford Crack Overhanging offwidth to the crack joining with Aroha. FA: Aaron Ford & Sally Ford, 2007	18	Trad 30m
32		Between the Lines Between two obvious cracks, tending left to shared anchor with About Time. FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	23	Sport 30m, 10
33		★ Arapiko Start on the left end of Proud Monkey Roof, climbing left to join Ford Crack. FA: Sally Ford & Aaron Ford, 2007	18	Trad 30m
Proud Monkey Roof
35		★ The Short Fat Version FA: Bruce Dowick	26	Sport 20m, 10
36		★★★ Drunken Monkey FA: Gordy Watson & Andy Mills	24	Sport 20m, 9
37		★★ Proud Monkey FA: Ian Binnie, 1996	23	Sport 20m, 7
38		★★ Red Curry Pot Climb FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	24	Sport 12m, 4
39		★★★ Dream Thing Jugs galore through the roof. The pump is real pulling the lip. Hang on until you clip the anchors. All about the location with this one. Cut your feet & get the shot. FA: Ian Bull, 1999	21	Sport 15m, 8
40		★ Drop Kick To The Head FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	23	Sport 15m, 4
41		★★ TNT FA: Tony Burnell, 2007	25	Sport 15m, 7
42		★ More Monkey Business FA: Doug Smellie, 1999	21	Sport 20m, 7
43		★ Raining Body Parts FA: Ian Bull, 1999	21	Sport 20m, 7