Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb. Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted.

Very slabby. All feet. Start with right hand in the pocket.

Quite slabby feet climb. Big jug at the top on the right.

Work your way up the crack, very obvious, travers around the right hand side of the plant near the top

Curving crack right of It's Now Or Never. Start under tree about 6m up.

On the "Wet Entrance Wall" Th e stream disappears underground about 50m south-east of the cave dry entrance. Start on the far bank. Climb past two parallel cracks to a bulge. Move right over the bulge and direct to the top. Natural pro, tree belay.

To the left the wall degenerates to a tree-lined slope before outcropping again. Start 2m to the left of the second tree growing at the foot of the cliff . Climb to a sharp edge and large hole, then up a groove.

The route starts at the next sizeable outcrop some 15m to the left . Climb to a small overhang below the tree with protruding flake (what!?). Move right to gain a ledge, and finish by the right-hand tree.

Climb past two bolts on jugs and slopers. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown

Climb up past a single bolt on juggy flakes. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

Up left short side

Up right side

A corner on your right as you walk down the gully between the cliffs. Look for a large vine jammed in it. Start left of the vine (crux), then bridge up the corner.

On the left-hand cliff (going down the gully) facing the sea is a shallow scoop. Climb this, avoiding some loose rock at the top.

You’ll notice this right leaning crack as soon as you reach the point. The start is likely to be wet at high tide. Begs to be climbed.

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Climb the arête using the least sharp holds you can find finishing up the slightly overhanging face.

A sharp but pleasant arête to work up, topping out top left. Named in honour of Langs Beach royalty.

Stand start with a hand on each side of the face. Head straight up the black slab to reach the jug and top out.

Easy for those tall enough to reach. A tough challenge for those who aren't.

tart matched in the left channel. Reach across to the right channel then top out there.

Start matched on obvious smooth block. Head right and then straight up.

Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range.

Match on the arête. Move up the left side.

Climb the pinches and jugs. About 4m to the left of Sun's Out.

Stand start. Match on the jug. Head to the right then up the side of the face.

Sit start, match on the vertical jug, and use other good jugs to climb the rest.

“Ants” 9m 15 Up the recess/corner, right of ”How does it go”, step right onto block with blast hole, up a shallow scoop and short wall to the bolt, a small cam fits in the horizontal crack just above the bolt, swing right to reach the anchors. Trad, or clip the bolt. John Broadwell, Antony Ranger 09/11/2023

Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, enjoy mantling up at the top.

Climb the blocks then pull through the steeper section to the right of the tree. Easy slab finish to the anchor. Stay left of the arête to avoid the choss and place gear in the thin crack on the left.

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of "Shooting in the Dark".

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

Climb the inwards corner to the right of "Shooting in The Dark" and left of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun". Some subtle cracks for protection down lower open to a nice wide hex size crack as you get to the crux of mantling before easier ground above. Climb moves right up the easy blocks to the anchors of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun".

Gianna and I managed to dodge the rain and climb "Shooting in The Dark" but the rain returned with a vengeance so we cleaned this route instead of climbing. Named after the a-ha version of Crying in The Rain which I heard the weekend before.

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of "Shooting in the Dark" to shared anchors.

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Climb the large blocks to the boulder and crack. Protection goes in the crack, you go to the left of the boulder - hexes and nuts work well. Traverse right to the anchors of "Sylvie’s Blast Hole".

To the right of "A Carp Died for This Climb", follow the line of weakness to the anchors.

Start is between Fingertip Face and MV6.Follow the crack,groove,drillhole,up to the MV6 anchors. Good stances for gear placements but a little run out at the top.

Climbs the blocks to the right of 'The South Face', follow the blast hole line towards the anchors of 'Fingertip Face'. Some good placements on the first half, the bolts can be used for a mixed route or there's a small crack with a couple of placements leading up to the anchor.

Climb the line of weakness on the left hand side of "The South Face" ledge. Curves it's way up to the anchors of that climb. Plenty of small placements in the crack and very obvious line now that the gorse bush and choss is gone.

Start on the wall 3m left of "Blue's Suede Shoes" up to the shelf, then two mantles (the first mantle is easiest from the right), then straight up the walls above to the anchor (double bolt belay). There is some loose rock off line.

Wide groove just inside the end fence of Lakeside Wall. Technical start leads to quality jugs and good placements.

Delicate mantle and traverse right on the ledge to clip the one bolt. Climb diagonally right up to the anchor of Go up the waterfall.

Start on the rails, get feet on, make your way to the top just below the gorse. down climb to the right.

The crack line 2m left of False Induction.

Twin cracks, if only using the left crack is a grade 17.

Grade 16 if the ledge is not used.