Ascents in Waitaha / Canterbury by David Jefferson having sport-cpr or ascent-date

First go of the day, just needed to remember the for sequence to get through the roof. Felt almost as hard as Bogus to me, although the style is quite different.

A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!

Finally slayed the mighty Kublai Khan, but not after punting off the top once! Turned out changing the shoes was the beta I needed to get it done. Only one hard route remains for me at Lyttelton now. Coming for you Dr Strangelove!

Short boulder problem start with one hard crimp.

Don’t know if it’s because this line is short, soft, or suited me well, but I’m still chuffed with the onsight.

First time repeating Gorilla in yonks. Such a fun route.

Quite a nice linkup actually, and harder than Gorilla alone given that it also passes the crux of Rubble. Possibly 28 but easier than She Devil in its current state, so who knows? Either way, good training for Trog!

As suspected, just needed fresh arms. Still a lot pumpier than the standard version.

Yes, it’s another silly linkup, but it’s good value and flows naturally.

Warm down.

Pretty happy to repeat this one, first time this season.

Got it first shot of the day, hanging draws. Really nice!

Fitness lap.

Well chuffed to send this Cave classic today, given the spoogy conditions. Key beta was for the belayer to wear a swami belt, and to just drop the clutch and motor through without resting. On to bigger and badder objectives!

Not entirely sure about the grade, but the standard version already feels hard for 26 and this linkup is much more sustained. Really quality climbing!

Felt a lot cruisier than yesterday.

Nice to repeat this one first go of the season.

Bit of progress today, have now made all but 2 moves. Need to find a way to make the heel stick.

Still not able to make a couple of the moves. A lot turns on getting the heel to stick. Feels good to try something that feels on the edge of possible.

Fresh arms helped. More like 26 with the beta I ended up using, but still harder than Yorkshire G(r)it.

Having a play since the rope was already up. Too much stretch to work on TR, will lead next time. Could make all the moves except two, but damn are they hard! Might invest time in this one.

Felt cruiser today. Short but packs in a few good moves.

Didn’t expect to even get on this route today, let alone send it! Went fairly easily second go after sussing beta. Still not really sure about the grade. 27 feels generous but 25 is probably a bit unfair. Split the difference?

Something like my 30th ascent of this route 😆

Love it.

Really quite fun! I surprised myself getting through the boulder problem, and had to find a good rest in the niche before committing to the exit moves. Probably my hardest onsight?

Repeat hanging draws, did the easier right variation.

First lap of the season, feeling pretty good!

Finally figured it out! Derek Thatcher’s beta for the win. Quite a nice sequence actually, very satisfying.

Warm up.

Warm up.

A bit wandery and dirty, but nice climbing.

Warm up.

Training day.

Another day, another lap.

Repeat, good for a fitness lap.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Repeat to clean Mega Pump.

Repeat.

Yes, it’s another silly link up, but what else am I going to do here?

Warm up.

Simplified beta worked a treat. Definitely harder than Swine Disease. Not the best line but still good fun. Cleaning it on the other hand…

Warm up.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Took longer than expected to send this one, but such is life at the Cave. Derek’s beta for the top worked a treat, and despite my whinging I ultimately do think the route is easier than Bolts. Absolute top end 27 though, quite full value!

My new preferred warm up.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Warm up.