Routes in Waitaha / Canterbury for selected grade

Nice juggy climbing to a delicately pumpy finish.

Climb up a steepening orange wall just left of the arete.

Gentle pats on the bottom lead to greater excitement. The line of bolts just to the right of Whacking Moles. Skirts the right-hand edge of the large cave/scoop. Another fine, popular route with friendly bolting. The long run-out in the middle is as inexplicable as the missing 'h', but the climbing is of much lower difficulty on this section.

An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry.

Hard start up hanging arete feature to some sustained climbing to break. Anchor just above lip.

What was once a very bold mixed line is now a fully bolted sport route. Start as for Victim, but follow the arching flake left at the 3rd bolt, the angle straight up at the 5th.

Fairly easy for the grade. Starts up the left-leading weakness through the roof on the left side of The Alcove. Follow three bolts leftward and then pull over the roof on good holds into a shallow groove with a bridging rest. Steepening finish, with the best holds leading left. Use the anchors of one of the adjacent routes.

Clip first bolt of SJ, step right then up past 2 bolts

Once one of the most heads up routes around, this line has recently been retrobolted and is now a sport climb. Start up Victim but instead of breaking right at the flake, carry on straight up. Excellent, sustained movement and good rock.

Take the rounded arete left of 'Lung Dyno' to a slightly committing mantle.

No 89 in 2009 Guide

No 84 in 2003 Guide (map 2)

Boulder up to the first bolt, clipping off a good hold. Using the pinch above, pull over the bulge on to the wall.

Short but interesting climb with bouldering type moves.

This boulder is in between the Solar Wall and Merlin Wall (right hand side on the topo picture)

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

Pull hard through the overhang past two bolts, then move rightward, clipping the third bolt from a good hold in the base of the groove to the left. Step right and power on up the prow, moving left to the fifth bolt and a positive exit. Five bolts and anchors

Sit start on two side pulls, right hand to crimp, and top out. Avoid using the arete

Climb up the arête to the very top of the crag. Optional wire placement in the middle to lessen the runout.

Hop-start to jug

Right of BV, up to slightly overhug wall. Climb over the lip and use the rap station to just rightwards.

Climb just to the right of the bolts. Delicate and technical all the way, with a safe run out up to the 4th bolt. Recover your nerves before leading up to the anchors, which are a long way away!

Narrow wall to the right of the small cave.

Start up the cracks and moving left as for the Active Ingredient, then move back right off the big flake to the second bolt. There is a good cam placement after the third bolt, and the angle eases, but still exciting to the top.

Climb up to a hole on series of crimps.

Mantle the obvious finger of rock.

Hard start on very small crimps to second bolt. Beautiful face climbing after that.

https://vimeo.com/339055252

Stand start at the ugly pockets. Sit start is V4.

Big moves from the hueco just right of 'Stem Cell'.

Sit start, hands on corner. Go up then right on the crimps to link up with the second half of Refresh

Slab side of Beefcake Boulder. Same start as Crack, follow horizontal crack to obvious hold, straight up slab to prominent top

Start at the very right end of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Cross the roof at its widest part and continue up a blocky looking wall with good holds to the final bolt and a tricky exit. Good fun - this is how sport climbing should be. Two-ring anchor. The belayer may wish to tie to the elder tree to avoid being dragged into mud or nettles.

Start up U Haul to the first bolt, but move left to another bolt, then blast up the wall past two more bolts on improving holds. Can also be started by bouldering to the first bolt directly. Use the U-Haul anchors.

Start in the small cave and move left at the third bolt. Continue straight up through the overhang.

Slab up the centre of the face.

Thin bridging up to the superb finger crack.

pockets

33

Layback the obvious clean flake crack.

Start on jugs way back in the scoop. Use stemming and magic to make your way to exist out right of the scoop.

Center of Slab

Start matched on the sloper just left of the arete. Move up and right on pinches and heel hooks.

Climb leftward through the roof as for the previous route, and then move right about two metres and climb a corner over a small roof, heading left to ring hanger anchors.

Start on the bad slopers with good feet. Pull on the intermediary sloper then lunge for the jug.

Mantle

Better than the name suggests. Six bolts. A central finish between the two earlier options to the Tropical Storm anchors.