Routes in Te Waipounamu / The South Island

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor.

This is a classic sharp arete, with fairly sustained climbing up nicely textured rocks. All bolts are well-spaced. Some holds are a little shiny from use.

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

On the other side of the arete for FC.

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

   Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Climb the left arete right of SFU.

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

Climb the right arete next to LBHMF.

Jugs galore through the roof. The pump is real pulling the lip. Hang on until you clip the anchors. All about the location with this one. Cut your feet & get the shot.

Follow the obvious crack.

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

14m up the face to a huge undercling, then easy up to the top

Two fixed draws and binder anchor. Super steep, great climbing on big holds.

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

Sustained climbing on a gentle overhang with good and varied holds. Retrobolted by Phil De Joux.

Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake.

A kind of off balance fiasco that causes tantrums and retrospective enjoyment

Starts just left of where the track arrives.

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

On upper Tenuite.

On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up.

Starts up yellow rock.

Ultra Classic. The falcons enjoy this section of cliff too. Climb up the ramp then get stuck into some thin moves followed by pumpy face climbing on the steep, well-featured rock.

Easy pulling on quality rock. Bell signifies victory

Climb the arete. Bolts to the right of the arete.

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

Easy climbing on big holds to a dynamic finish. Being tall helps.

A good route between AOBTD and Lizard. Follow the line of bolts, slightly rightwards to the 5th bolt. then up to the DBB

3 bolts to anchor

Can be done as two pitches. Two rappels required to reach ground.

Nice juggy climbing to a delicately pumpy finish.

The traverse has commitment , exposure and dramatic views. It takes a full day. In full summer conditions, the route is a mostly long rock scramble with steep sections, however snow and ice increase the difficulty. For pitching, bring a 60m rope with a small rack and plenty of long slings. An ice axe is necessary in winter conditions. Take plenty of water, there is none en route.

Follow the crack up to a flake. Look for the fine foot ledge near the diagonal scar. Up the face on good pockets, a little run out

Step in from the right, or use the harder direct start (about 19) to the first bolt. Then climb the corner on big holds, but with a couple of reachy moves. Exit left to the "Quick & Dirty" top out. Originally listed as 20, but seems to be getting steadily downgraded

On upper Tenuite.

The first climb on the face just right of Please Stop. Veer leftwards past the bolts but stay out of the crack.

On upper Tenuite. Mostly on big holds, the hard part might be finding them. The bolt line 3m left of 'Go With the Flow'.

Climb onto ledge then onto block, then ascend the steep featured wall, to the left of the vegetated crack.

Two meters left of 'Bigger than Big', just next the the small tree. Straight up the face to a small rooflet. Continue through the bulge and left at the overhang with one bolt on it. Follow the large crack to the left and back onto the face for an easy finish at the chain anchor.

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

Starts up grey pillar in center of wall, drifting rightwards. Sustained crimps.

Right of the arete on the slightly overhanging face.

Start at the fixed belay anchors at the bottom. Straight up the slab past 5 bolts and lots of holds to a chain anchor.

Awkward start turns into nice face climbing.

Diagonal climbing on big holds

Well spaced bolts around cruxes.

Climb up past two bolts on the right face of the corner. Step over onto the left slab and continue to a chain anchor.

Can be done as a single- or multi-pitch.

Climb up the centre of the yellow face.

Long slab.

Nice face climbing on small holds.

1m right of Stool Pigeon. Up and right through bulges to the anchor.

Start on the left-hand side of the crack.

Climb just right of the arete.

Follow the groove, then traverse right around the roof.

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

Seems to be fully bolted now, as of September 2023. 40m rappel straight down from the top.

Climb the chimney before moving right after 3-4 bolts to climb the obvious line up the face.

On upper Tenuite.

It's all about the photo! The steepest of the steep, and a nice 'surprise' 2/3 of the way out. 30m to the ground from the anchor.

Start as for Slightly English up the crack but veer right up the pocket crack after clipping first bolt.

Now called "Status Anxiety". Supercedes Cracking up. Diagonal left leaning crack and ramp on left of the overhanging wall. Was originally a natural pro route but now bolted (with permission) and extended to give an out there expedition.

On upper Tenuite. Anchor the belayer to the two low FH at the right end of the wall, then head up past the bolts slightly right of this.

Nice, technical and sustained.