Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | ★★★ Lucky Strike
A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best. See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010 | 280m, 7, 11 | Homer Hut Area | ||
23 | ★★ Rua Tahi
FA: Jon Sedon & Max Farr, 2007 | 12m, 5 | Little Babylon | ||
21 | ★ Multitude
Right of Solitude. The names are nicely written on the rock. FA: Erin Stewart, 2014 | 9m, 4 | Little Babylon | ||
21 | ★★ Proximity Infatuation
FA: Paul Rogers, 2002 | 20m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
25 | ★★ International Turkey Patrol
Climb slab until the roof. Follow chalked up weakness through the rock, then diagonally left to anchors. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2007 | 20m, 8 | Little Babylon | ||
25 | ★★★ Solitude
FA: Brooke Sandahl | 25m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
20 | ★★★ Eureka
1
20
35m
2
20
50m
3
17
50m
4
18
50m
5
15
35m
Fully bolted FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010 | 220m, 5 | Homer Hut Area | ||
24 | ★★ Jack The Biscuit
1
17
30m
2
18
15m
3
20
25m
4
24
12m
P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay. P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge. P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay. P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left. FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993 | 82m, 4, 20 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★★ Twelve Good Summers
1
16
2
16
3
19
4
17
Fully bolted FA: Nick Cradock & Martin Hawes, 2010 | 120m, 4 | Homer Hut Area | ||
26 | ★★★ Jugular
FA: Thomas Adamson, 2007 | 18m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
23 | ★ Bish Bosh Bash
FA: Al Ritchie, 2007 | 12m, 4 | Little Babylon | ||
17 | ★★ Bowen Allan Corner
P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height. P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges) P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay. P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it. P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m. P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof. P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below. FA: Stu Allan & John Bowen, 1972 | 300m, 8 | Homer Hut Area | ||
22 | ★★★ High Ideals And Crazy Dreams
1
19
15m
2
22
19m
FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 34m, 2, 2 | The Chasm | ||
15 | ★★ The Castledowns Classic
| 30m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
1
16
30m
2
18
32m
3
20
30m
4
14
30m
5
21
30m
6
21
30m
7
21
30m
8
18
30m
9
21
30m
10
20
30m
An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike. FA: Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock & Jonathan Gillian, 2016 | 300m, 10, 19 | Homer Hut Area | ||
22 | ★★★ Finders Keepers
1
15
25m
2
19
30m
3
18
30m
4
12
60m
5
22
20m
6
21
25m
7
21
30m
8
21
30m
9
21
30m
The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2013 | 280m, 9, 25 | Homer Hut Area | ||
10 | ★★ Access Rungs
Up the rungs which are 3m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB. Set: Paul Rogers, 2012 | 20m | The Chasm | ||
27 | ★★★ Moses
Overhanging left leaning crack line. FA: Jon Sedon, 2007 | 24m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
16 | ★★ Never Say Nevis Again
| 22m | Castledowns | ||
26 | ★★★ Buster Gonad
Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps! Now fully bolted, with permadraws. FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 24m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
29 | ★★★ Hercules
Start from tree on top of slab. Up whit steak rock. Join ITP. FA: Matt Evrard, 2008 | 20m, 8 | Little Babylon | ||
23 | ★★★ Groove Armada
FA: Paul Rogers & Will McQueen, 2002 | 29m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★★ Day Tripper
FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 25m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
20 | ★★ Another One
From top of the rungs climb rightwards to the CN belay. FA: Paul Rogers, 2005 | 15m, 6 | The Chasm | ||
22 | ★★ Safety In Numbers
FA: Mark Sedon, 2002 | 21m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
15 | ★ Womb With A View
| 8m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★ Shellfish Desires
| 22m, 2 | Castledowns | ||
26 | ★★ The Obvious Weakness
1
17
18m
2
26
18m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2004 | 36m, 2 | Babylon | ||
17 | ★★★ North Buttress
Arguably the greatest rock climb in New Zealand. FA: Murray Jones & Harold Jacobs, 1968 | 500m | Lake Adelaide | ||
19 | ★★ The Drunken Skunkin Leprechaun
Start on the ring bolt anchor between Pro Rata and Dread Zone. Can be accessed from the ledge by rapping down to the Dread Zone anchor and then traversing across left. The pitch is now fully bolted with fun, flowy moves. FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2004 | 20m, 5 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★★ Morris Dancing (In the Moonlight)
1
19
56m
2
16
57m
3
17
53m
Fully bolted. P1: 14 bolts; P2: 8 bolts; P3: 9 bolts. The line starts into a corner-like feature then veers left onto a smooth slab. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010 | 170m, 3, 31 | Homer Hut Area | ||
24 | ★★★ One Way Ticket
FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 25m, 13 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★★ Monsoon
30m if starting from the top of the fixed line, 35m from the ground. First bolt is slightly higher than comfortable. FA: Craig Jefferies & Jon Sedon, 2006 | 30m, 8 | Babylon | ||
18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing
| 11m | Castledowns | ||
28 | ★★ Contact Neurosis
1
16
20m
2
18
16m
3
28
18m
FA: Paul Rogers, 2003 | 54m, 3, 15 | The Chasm | ||
16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête
| 18m | Castledowns | ||
29 | ★★★ No Country For Old Men
FA: Bruce Dowrick | 20m, 9 | Little Babylon | ||
20 | ★ Daisy
Daisy is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Nice moves in every pitch on great quality rock. 1st Pitch 12 2nd Pitch 19 3rd Pitch 18 4th Pitch 15 5th Pitch 20 FA: Vladimir, Vladimir Suraba & Veronika Vlcekova | 140m, 5, 10 | Lake Adelaide | ||
22 | ★ Granite Gringo
From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Fully bolted as of 2016. FA: Kate Sinclair, 2004 | 15m, 3 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★★ Kingston Flyer
| 24m | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★★ Stoned Immaculate
FA: Hugh Barnard & Paul Rogers, 1993 | 25m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
25 | ★★ Fly My Pretties
Start as per ITP then head right after the roof to link 2 bolts then into Jugular FA: Kester Brown, 2008 | 18m, 6 | Little Babylon | ||
25 | ★★ Project Aqua
1
24
20m
2
25
20m
3
24
20m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Lionel Clay, 2004 | 60m, 3 | Babylon | ||
17 | ★ Johnny Walker Wisdom
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2013 | 22m, 7 | Castledowns | ||
22 | ★★ Mr. Wolf
1
18
15m
2
22
26m
Start as for Dread Zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch 1. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the Chill-Out ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. FA: Murray Ball & Paul Rogers, 2003 | 41m, 2 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★ Uprising
1
14
30m
2
16
20m
3
16
20m
4
15
30m
5
17
30m
6
14
20m
7
20
30m
8
15
50m
9
22
20m
10
17
50m
11
24
35m
12
21
20m
13
22
30m
14
22
40m
15
22
35m
16
22
20m
17
22
30m
18
21
17m
19
18
35m
check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/uprising FA: Jon Sedon, Paul Rogers, Matt Evrard, Camille Berthoux & Bruce Dowrick, 27 Dec 2018 | 560m, 19, 10 | The Cleddau Valley | ||
23 | ★★★ Retrosexual
1
22
18m
2
23
15m
FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993 | 33m, 2, 13 | The Chasm | ||
26 | ★★★ Bus t' Milford
FA: Chris Plant, 1994 | 18m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
21 | ★★★ Feature Face
A spectacular bolted line up the Feature Face. Varied techniques required. Pitches: 17,21,19. Climb the left awkward crack past 2 bolts to follow line up face. The second pitch is the money, and is sustained and delicate. Third pitch also requires some delicate work, but eases off towards the anchor. All anchors double bolted. 1st and 3rd have rings to aid rap on double ropes. Can descend via 3 raps on a single rope as some fixed gear has been left on the second anchor (please don't steal). Otherwise, find a single bolt on top of formation and descend the north-side to reach the Upper Bluffs. FA: Steve Skelton & Reese Doyle | 65m, 3 | Borland Valley | ||
30 | ★★ Here Come the Romans
FA: Josh Cornah, 2021 | 14m, 7 | Little Babylon | ||
17 | ★★ East Ridge | 300m | Gertrude Valley | ||
16 | ★★ Sand Jam
| 6m | Colac Bay | ||
14 | ★ The Black Corner
| 9m | Colac Bay | ||
24 | ★★ On The Prow
FA: Paul Rogers & Jon Sedon, 2002 | 13m, 5 | The Chasm | ||
25 | ★★★ PSI
1
21
12m
2
25
26m
3
23
15m
FA: Jon Sedon, 2005 | 53m, 3 | Babylon | ||
20 | ★★ Mātuitui
FA: Olivia Truax & Sam Waetford, Nov 2021 | 280m, 7, 14 | Homer Hut Area | ||
16 | American Idol
1
15
32m
2
16
50m
3
16
60m
Bring a light rack. Bolted belays, and the occasional bolt. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010 | 140m, 3 | Homer Hut Area | ||
25 | ★ Roaming Warrior
FA: Owen Davies, 2012 | 20m, 7 | The Chasm | ||
21 | ★★ Rough Diamond
1
20
2
16
3
21
4
19
5
21
FA: Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, Andrew McFarlane & David Stevens, 1999 | 120m, 5 | Homer Hut Area | ||
16 | ★★ The Taxidermist
Begins on ledge just left of the top of pitch 1 of SD. Climb the groove through a series of bulges to the top of SD. You'll be stuffed when you reach the top! Set: John Dale, Ethan Dale & John Grogan, 2012 | 9m | Castledowns | ||
17 | ★ Sea Snake
| 9m | Colac Bay | ||
19 | ★★ Garden Trowel Route
1
18
40m
2
19
45m
3
17
35m
On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner. FA: John Barnett, Al Hay & Galen Rowell, 1977 | 120m, 3 | Homer Hut Area | ||
24 | ★★★ Tufa Dub
1
23
25m
2
24
25m
Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Follow the line of bolts directly up. FA: Jon Sedon, 2005 | 50m, 2 | Babylon | ||
24 | ★★ Dread Zone
1
18
15m
2
21
30m
3
24
15m
FA: Paul Rogers & Polly Stupples, 1994 | 60m, 3, 17 | The Chasm | ||
17 | ★★ Vociferous Resistance
| 9m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2014 | 17m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★★ Omelette
| 13m | Castledowns | ||
24 | ★ The Groper
1
17
12m
2
24
28m
Start from the first bolt along the ledge. FA: Craig Jefferies, 2004 | 40m, 2 | Babylon | ||
27 | ★★ Bish Bosh Bash Extension
The awesome headwall above the ring bolt on Bish Bosh Bash. Finishes at the cold shuts. | 25m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
17 | ★★ New Romantics
| 12m | Colac Bay | ||
15 | Zig Zag
| 6m | Colac Bay | ||
19 | ★★★ North Buttress Direct Start
Two steep pitches up a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round towards the NE Face. FA: Rick McGregor & Cathy Mackay, 1985 | 450m, 10 | Lake Adelaide | ||
16 | ★★ Feminist Wiles
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
19/20 | ★★ Twelve Good Summers Variation
At the top of the second pitch, you have two options. Left or right. Both lead to the top of the wall. | 140m, 4, 12 | Homer Hut Area | ||
17 | ★ Mary had a little Jamb
FA: Mary McFly, 2021 | 15m | Borland Valley | ||
24 | ★ The Gravitron
Start under the roof, and go R-wards finishing out the RhSide of the roof. FA: Al Ritchie, 1996 | 10m | Castledowns | ||
15 | Self Propelled Undies
Set: John Dale & Callum Hudson, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ The Hauler
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
26 | ★★ Piro Piro
FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2004 | 27m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
20 | ★★ Tickety Boo
Climb two (or three??) pitches of Eureka, then branch out right for three pitches. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2012 | 230m, 6, 61 | Homer Hut Area | ||
★★ Traverse Pass
From the bivvy at the Gertrude Saddle, walk up the snowfields following the cairns on the north face towards the Traverse Pass. From the top of the Traverse, follow the rocky ridge towards the east to the summit of Mt Talbot. There are some loose rocks but also some good rock protection (cams, wires), it's easy rock. It takes a few hours from the saddle to summit. 705m elevation from saddle. | 710m | Gertrude Valley | |||
25 | ★★ Rua Tahi Extension
Extend or unclip from the top of Rua Tahi, step right to the bolt you can see, then head north on small edges then jugs and over a bulge. | 24m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
20 | ★★ Cradock's Retreat | Homer Hut Area | |||
16 | ★★ Ron Burgandy
Opposite Never Say Nevis Again, a short bouldery route Set: John Dale & Ethan Dale, 2009 | 10m, 2 | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ I Got The Whiskey Baby
Set: John Dale & Ethan Dale, 2010 | 16m, 4 | Castledowns | ||
V0 | ★ No. 6
| Colac Bay | |||
17 | ★ Unnamed 17
Slab left of rungs. FA: Paul Rogers, 2014 | 15m, 5 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★★★ Perseverance
Difficult finish First Bolted route to the Left of the Chimney. This climb is a 'must do', it has excellent rock and great holds that doesn't require much searching and hanging around. FFA: Pete O'Neil, 23 Mar 2015 | 12m, 7 | Bluff | ||
17 | ★ Nose Candy
Climb 'Spin' to its anchor, then climb onto the ledge above. A bolt has being placed to protect this. Belay off the tree in front of the crack. Layback your way over the bulge and jam your way to the anchors. Superb quality, pity it isn't longer. FA: Troy Kendall | 10m | Borland Valley | ||
17 | ★ Vertiginous Existence
| 8m | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★★ Bad Judgement
1
20
55m
2
20
45m
Fully bolted. P1: 11 bolts; P2: 7 bolts. Confusingly, start on the bolt line to the left of painted marking ´BJ’. FA: Murray Judge & Dave Shotwell, 2012 | 100m, 2, 18 | Homer Hut Area | ||
NZ 2- | ★★★ East Ridge Original Route
A Unique Day/Multi Day climb involving a kayak, relentless approach through thick scrub and extremely exposed scrambling. Some of the best exposure attainable below the snowline. Kayak or inflatable from Deepwater Basin across the sound to Sinbad River mouth and follow the obvious ridgeline up to the Footstool. Only water on route is a small tarn (sometimes a puddle) on the saddle after the footstool. Follow ridge to summit. | 1700m | The Harrison Valley | ||
14 | Middle Route
| 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
26/27 | ★★ Mile High Club
1
15
2
16
3
24
4
26
5
15
6
23
7
15
8
16
9
17
10
20
11
24
12
16
13
17
14
20
15
25
16
26/27
17
22
18
25
19
18
20
20
21
23
22
26
Pitch1:15m, Pitch2:16m, Pitch3:40m, Pitch4:30, Pitch5:20m, Pitch6:25m, Pitch7:50m, Pitch8:35m, Pitch9:35m, Pitch10:20m, Pitch11:50m, Pitch12:35m, Pitch13:32m, Pitch14:40m, Pitch15:37m, Pitch16:27m, Pitch17:30m, Pitch18:22m, Pitch19:30m, Pitch20:40m, Pitch21:37m, Pitch22:20m FFA: Karl “Merry” Schimanski & Daniel Joll, 2020 FA: Karl “Merry” Schimanski & Daniel Joll, 2020 | 700m, 22, 14 | Airport Wall | ||
21 | ★★ Gypsy Heart
FA: Vlado Šuraba & Veronika Vlčeková, Jan 2023 | 300m, 9, 14 | Gertrude Valley | ||
16 | Getting Ink Done
Set: John Dale & Callum Hudson, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★★ Ship Of Fools
1
19
2
18
3
19
4
18
Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall. FA: Bruce Dowrick, Bryan Moore & Tony Ward-Holmes, 13 Dec 2014 | 170m, 4 | Copper point | ||
16 | ★★ Slip-Slop-Splat
Set: Jo Kippax, 1995 | 9m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
15 | ★ Get in Behind ya Bastard
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2012 | 20m, 6 | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★ Unnamed 19
Left and up from the top of the rungs. Shares the first 2 bolts of JTB. | 30m, 10 | The Chasm |