Routes in Castledowns

Fun slab climb, great for kids. Finishes at the second ledge before the chimney.

Alternative finish to Casa de Lorelei. From the second ledge, climb up the chimney to the anchor bolts. Essentially just a really steep approach to a short boulder problem.

A local secret. Climb around Southland and meet the locals at Castledowns for the beta. All that can be said is that this line is a beautiful fun outing!

Technical smear test piece. Up the pockets to a steep slab. incorporating smears, small holds, and superb balancing moves.

Backside of ‘Top Hat’ starting beneath the archway. Crank hard on big holds to reach the top. Dynos are optional.

A beautiful climb of its grade. Incorporates a smeary bottom section which leads to lovely pockets.

Climb the pocketed wall to the rip. Top out by bridging and stemming off the rib.

From the second gate, a small buttress is visible up the gully to the left of the toilet. A nice wee line, which makes the ascent and descent from top hat much easier.

Opposite Never Say Nevis Again, a short bouldery route

Be aware of the potential ground fall.

Begins on ledge just left of the top of pitch 1 of SD. Climb the groove through a series of bulges to the top of SD. You'll be stuffed when you reach the top!

A steep route to the left of the Kingston Flyer, can be linked with the KF at about grade 22.

Start under the roof, and go R-wards finishing out the RhSide of the roof.

Starts on the right side of the gravitron roof up the yellow rock and through the hole extra points for the no hands rest. Grade depending on your wing span

Unknown slab at the head of ‘Politics Gully’. Has fun quality compression moves.

Jam up the crack to some sneaky smears. Reach the overhang, pull on pockets to break the lip, layback the tufa to get yourself established on the steep slab. Compress your way to the top.

Scramble to the ledge with the tree. From here follow the line of bolts up a technical groove. Muster some muscle for the crux, and bridge, stem, and smear your way to the top. Look out for the sharks tooth.

traverse left through difficult smears and 3 bolts. place a #4 cam and continue up a easy but runout slab to the top.

Climb the line through the middle of the face, bridging through the bulge.

Climb the arête to the right of the face. Take a #2.5 cam to protect to the first bolt.

Triple mantle.

Do a pressing move off the deck to a high bolt, crux in the middle. Runout route.