Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | |||||
23 | ★★ Stoned Immaculate
FA: Hugh Barnard & Paul Rogers, 1993 | 25m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
27 | ★ Doobious Tendencies
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004 | 25m, 7 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★★ Day Tripper
FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 25m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★★ One Way Ticket
FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 25m, 13 | The Chasm | ||
25 | ★★★ Vertically Challenged
FA: Kevin Nickolas & Paul Rogers, 1995 | 18m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
19 | ★ Unnamed 19
Left and up from the top of the rungs. Shares the first 2 bolts of JTB. | 30m, 10 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★ On The Prow
FA: Paul Rogers & Jon Sedon, 2002 | 13m, 5 | The Chasm | ||
23 | ★★★ Groove Armada
FA: Paul Rogers & Will McQueen, 2002 | 29m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
22 | ★★ Safety In Numbers
FA: Mark Sedon, 2002 | 21m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
21 | ★★ Proximity Infatuation
FA: Paul Rogers, 2002 | 20m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
20 | ★★ Another One
From top of the rungs climb rightwards to the CN belay. FA: Paul Rogers, 2005 | 15m, 6 | The Chasm | ||
17 | ★ Unnamed 17
Slab left of rungs. FA: Paul Rogers, 2014 | 15m, 5 | The Chasm | ||
28 | ★★ Contact Neurosis
1
16
20m
2
18
16m
3
28
18m
FA: Paul Rogers, 2003 | 54m, 3, 15 | The Chasm | ||
26 | ★★★ Bus t' Milford
FA: Chris Plant, 1994 | 18m, 8 | The Chasm | ||
26 | ★★★ Buster Gonad
Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps! Now fully bolted, with permadraws. FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993 | 24m, 9 | The Chasm | ||
22 | ★ Granite Gringo
From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Fully bolted as of 2016. FA: Kate Sinclair, 2004 | 15m, 3 | The Chasm | ||
24 | ★★ Jack The Biscuit
1
17
30m
2
18
15m
3
20
25m
4
24
12m
P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay. P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge. P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay. P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left. FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993 | 82m, 4, 20 | The Chasm | ||
27 | ★★ The Whore of Babylon
Starts from the bottom of the big orange streak. After reaching the break, exciting moves on fictional footholds lead to a glory jug at the anchors. FA: Jonathon Clearwater & Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 16m, 6 | Babylon | ||
30 | ★★★ Rage
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 18m, 6 | Babylon | ||
28 | ★★★ Sinanthropus
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 18m, 4 | Babylon | ||
32 | ★★ Katalepsis
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 20m, 7 | Babylon | ||
30 | ★★★ Requiem
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 26m, 6 | Babylon | ||
14 | ★ On Your Marks
| 10m | Castledowns | ||
18 | Gordon's Groove
| 10m | Castledowns | ||
16 | Opportunity Rocks
| 10m | Castledowns | ||
22 | Centre Plot
| 10m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★ Powder Ates
| 10m | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★★ Climbing By Numbers
| 16m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ Don't Miss The Dish
| 18m | Castledowns | ||
22 | ★ Black Doris
| 20m | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★ Toeing The Line
| 23m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ Sycophrantic
Set: Jo Kippax, 1996 | 20m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★ Slip-Slop-Splat
Set: Jo Kippax, 1995 | 9m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★ Writer's Blank
Set: Jo Kippax | 15m, 6 | Castledowns | ||
20 | Reiter's Bonk
Set: Jo Kippax, 1995 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★★ Sad State of the Socialist State
Set: Jo Kippax, 1995 | 12m, 4 | Castledowns | ||
27 | Stalker
| 12m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ Feminist Wiles
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
20 | Ethics is a Place in England
| 12m | Castledowns | ||
24 | ★ The Gravitron
Start under the roof, and go R-wards finishing out the RhSide of the roof. FA: Al Ritchie, 1996 | 10m | Castledowns | ||
19 | Competitive Networking
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête
| 18m | Castledowns | ||
17 | ★★ Vociferous Resistance
| 9m | Castledowns | ||
17 | ★ Vertiginous Existence
| 8m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★ Flatulent Persistence
| 7m | Castledowns | ||
18 | Grunt 'n' Go
| 6m | Castledowns | ||
24 | ★★ Solaris
| 24m | Castledowns | ||
15 | ★★ The Castledowns Classic
| 30m | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★★ Omelette
| 13m | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★ Chicken-Shit
| 12m | Castledowns | ||
24 | ★★★ Anti-anhedonia
| 27m, 2 | Castledowns | ||
21 | Wombling Woozle
| 18m | Castledowns | ||
15 | ★ Womb With A View
| 8m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★ Shellfish Desires
| 22m, 2 | Castledowns | ||
18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing
| 11m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ Gumboot Revival
| 19m | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★★ Kingston Flyer
| 24m | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ Never Say Nevis Again
| 22m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★ Suicide Bunny
Be aware of the potential ground fall. | 13m | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★ Jiggy With It
Technical smear test piece. Up the pockets to a steep slab. incorporating smears, small holds, and superb balancing moves. | 8m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★ Ornithology
Backside of ‘Top Hat’ starting beneath the archway. Crank hard on big holds to reach the top. Dynos are optional. | 8m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
14 | ★ Top Hat
A beautiful climb of its grade. Incorporates a smeary bottom section which leads to lovely pockets. | 14m, 6 | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ The Hauler
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★★★ Parsimonious Bastard
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
23 | ★ Tunnel Vision
| 15m | Castledowns | ||
19 | The Slab | Homer Hut Area | |||
25 | ★★★ Solitude
FA: Brooke Sandahl | 25m, 10 | Little Babylon | ||
23 | ★ Bish Bosh Bash
FA: Al Ritchie, 2007 | 12m, 4 | Little Babylon | ||
23 | ★★ Rua Tahi
FA: Jon Sedon & Max Farr, 2007 | 12m, 5 | Little Babylon | ||
19 | ★★ Monsoon
30m if starting from the top of the fixed line, 35m from the ground. First bolt is slightly higher than comfortable. FA: Craig Jefferies & Jon Sedon, 2006 | 30m, 8 | Babylon | ||
26 | ★★ The Obvious Weakness
1
17
18m
2
26
18m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2004 | 36m, 2 | Babylon | ||
15 | ★ Red Guitar
Nice slab climb with steeper section at top | 15m, 6 | Gable Rock | ||
15 | The edge plays the blues
Slab with steeper last section | 15m, 6 | Gable Rock | ||
15 | ★ ??? 4
Slab with nice little crux in the middle | 12m, 5 | Gable Rock | ||
14 | ??? 5
Easy slab climb | 10m, 4 | Gable Rock | ||
16 | ★★ The Taxidermist
Begins on ledge just left of the top of pitch 1 of SD. Climb the groove through a series of bulges to the top of SD. You'll be stuffed when you reach the top! Set: John Dale, Ethan Dale & John Grogan, 2012 | 9m | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★ Multitude
Right of Solitude. The names are nicely written on the rock. FA: Erin Stewart, 2014 | 9m, 4 | Little Babylon | ||
19 | Nine Kinds of Slippery
traverse left through difficult smears and 3 bolts. place a #4 cam and continue up a easy but runout slab to the top. Set: john Dale & Ethan Dale, 2010 | 16m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★ Slab de Jour
Climb the line through the middle of the face, bridging through the bulge. Set: john Dale & Ethan Dale, 2010 | 16m, 4 | Castledowns | ||
21 | Two Smoking Barrels
Climb the arête to the right of the face. Take a #2.5 cam to protect to the first bolt. Set: john Dale & Ethan Dale, 2010 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
15 | ★ Get in Behind ya Bastard
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2012 | 20m, 6 | Castledowns | ||
19 | ★ Fin Tingers
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2012 | 13m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name
| 20m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
20 | ★★ Closing Time
Set: John Dale, 2012 | 30m, 10 | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★ Old Black
Set: John Dale, 2012 | 23m, 7 | Castledowns | ||
15 | Self Propelled Undies
Set: John Dale & Callum Hudson, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
14 | Middle Route
| 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
16 | Getting Ink Done
Set: John Dale & Callum Hudson, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2014 | 17m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
18 | ★★ Steam Punk
A steep route to the left of the Kingston Flyer, can be linked with the KF at about grade 22. Set: John Dale, 2014 | 12m, 5 | Castledowns | ||
17 | ★ Johnny Walker Wisdom
Set: John Dale & John Grogan, 2013 | 22m, 7 | Castledowns | ||
16 | ★★ Ron Burgandy
Opposite Never Say Nevis Again, a short bouldery route Set: John Dale & Ethan Dale, 2009 | 10m, 2 | Castledowns | ||
13 | ★ Cutting Your Teeth
Set: John Dale & Zoe Dale, 2010 | 13m, 3 | Castledowns | ||
21 | ★★ I Got The Whiskey Baby
Set: John Dale & Ethan Dale, 2010 | 16m, 4 | Castledowns | ||
27 | ★★ Traverse of the Titans
From part way up the second pitch of Rua Tahi, head right to the anchor of Tantalus. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2013 | 30m, 12 | Little Babylon | ||
34 | Open Project
Start up Rua Tahi but ever right through steep crux. Set: Ivan Vostinar | Little Babylon | |||
28 | ★ Double Clutch
Left side of cave. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | 14m | Little Babylon | ||
28 | ★★ Jesus Built My Hotrod
Right side of cave on steep terrain, then traverse left on lip. FA: Kester Brown, 2008 | 15m | Little Babylon | ||
29 | ★ Jesus I Was Evil
Starts from right side of cave, up steep section and onto head wall. Set: Al Ritchie FA: Zac Orme, 2013 | 20m | Little Babylon | ||
34 | ★★★ Odysseus
Start up Xerxes, then straight up to join Hey Zues. Set: Jon Sedon FA: Josh Cornah, 2020 | 18m, 8 | Little Babylon |