Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gable Rock | |||||
14 | ??? 5
Easy slab climb | 10m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ ??? 4
Slab with nice little crux in the middle | 12m, 5 | |||
15 | The edge plays the blues
Slab with steeper last section | 15m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Red Guitar
Nice slab climb with steeper section at top | 15m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Hudson Snout
Slab, some great and positive holds | 12m | |||
14 | Pig Snout | 12m | |||
Fiordland Airport Wall | |||||
28 | The Dreamliner
1
27
32m
2
22
35m
3
24
15m
4
25
35m
5
24
20m
6
24
30m
7
25/26
15m
8
28
35m
9
24
25m
10
21
15m
11
24
25m
FFA: Daniel Joll & James Hobson, May 2021 | 280m, 11 | |||
26/27 | ★★ Mile High Club
1
15
2
16
3
24
4
26
5
15
6
23
7
15
8
16
9
17
10
20
11
24
12
16
13
17
14
20
15
25
16
26/27
17
22
18
25
19
18
20
20
21
23
22
26
Pitch1:15m, Pitch2:16m, Pitch3:40m, Pitch4:30, Pitch5:20m, Pitch6:25m, Pitch7:50m, Pitch8:35m, Pitch9:35m, Pitch10:20m, Pitch11:50m, Pitch12:35m, Pitch13:32m, Pitch14:40m, Pitch15:37m, Pitch16:27m, Pitch17:30m, Pitch18:22m, Pitch19:30m, Pitch20:40m, Pitch21:37m, Pitch22:20m FFA: Karl “Merry” Schimanski & Daniel Joll, 2020 FA: Karl “Merry” Schimanski & Daniel Joll, 2020 | 700m, 22, 14 | |||
Fiordland Little Babylon | |||||
29 | ★ Jesus I Was Evil
Starts from right side of cave, up steep section and onto head wall. Set: Al Ritchie FA: Zac Orme, 2013 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★ Jesus Built My Hotrod
Right side of cave on steep terrain, then traverse left on lip. FA: Kester Brown, 2008 | 15m | |||
28 | ★ Double Clutch
Left side of cave. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | 14m | |||
27 | ★ Mica
FA: Jon Sedon, 2012 | 18m | |||
27 | ★ Algorithm
Set: Al Ritchie FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2012 | 22m | |||
28 | ★ Aphrodite
Bulge right of Hell Boy. FA: Zac Orme | 22m | |||
28 | ★★★ Hell Boy
FA: Jon Sedon, 2007 | 22m, 12 | |||
27 | ★★ Crystal Method
Head up layback and onto face. FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2007 | 22m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Sick Bro
Climb as for Man of Substances but finish at the anchor on the bulge. FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2007 | 20m, 7 | |||
29 | ★ Man of Substances
Follows weakness then onto head wall. Set: Bruce Dowrick FA: Jonathan Clearwater, 2008 | 25m, 9 | |||
32 | ★★★ Blood Meridian
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2009 | 25m, 10 | |||
32 | ★★ Cyrus The Virus
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2009 | 30m, 11 | |||
30 | ★★★ Cyrus The Great
Set: Thomas Adamson FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | 25m, 10 | |||
33 | ★★★ Colossus
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | 25m, 10 | |||
31 | ★★ The Giving Tree
Up slab to series of small roofs. Set: Thomas Adamson FA: Mayan Gobat-Smith, 2008 | 27m, 8 | |||
29 | ★ Prowess
FA: Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2008 | 28m, 12 | |||
34 | ★★★ New Testament
Extension to Moses. FA: Josh Cornah, 2021 | 32m, 14 | |||
27 | ★★★ Moses
Overhanging left leaning crack line. FA: Jon Sedon, 2007 | 24m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★★ Jugular
FA: Thomas Adamson, 2007 | 18m, 10 | |||
25 | ★★ Fly My Pretties
Start as per ITP then head right after the roof to link 2 bolts then into Jugular FA: Kester Brown, 2008 | 18m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ International Turkey Patrol
Climb slab until the roof. Follow chalked up weakness through the rock, then diagonally left to anchors. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2007 | 20m, 8 | |||
35 | ★★★ Blood of Olympus
The original line of the crag. Same start as ITP then straight up into hard boulder and top of Xena, Set: Aaron Ford & Sally Ford FA: Josh Cornah, 2018 | 30m, 12 | |||
28 | ★★ Tantalus
Extension of ITP. From anchors, left up vague ramp. FA: Thomas Adamson, 2008 | 35m, 14 | |||
33 | ★★★ Xena
Extension to Hercules. Continue straight up through roof. FA: Chris Münch, 2008 | 35m, 16 | |||
33 | ★★ Tiger Blood
Extension of Hercules, left of Xena. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2013 | 35m, 17 | |||
29 | ★★★ Hercules
Start from tree on top of slab. Up whit steak rock. Join ITP. FA: Matt Evrard, 2008 | 20m, 8 | |||
29 | ★ Hey Zeus
FA: John Sedon, 2008 | 20m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ No Country For Old Men
FA: Bruce Dowrick | 20m, 9 | |||
30 | ★★★ Xerxes
Right diagonal weakness. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | 20m, 10 | |||
34 | ★★★ Odysseus
Start up Xerxes, then straight up to join Hey Zues. Set: Jon Sedon FA: Josh Cornah, 2020 | 18m, 8 | |||
30 | ★★ Here Come the Romans
FA: Josh Cornah, 2021 | 14m, 7 | |||
34 | Open Project
Start up Rua Tahi but ever right through steep crux. Set: Ivan Vostinar | ||||
28 | Traverse of the Gods
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2013 | 30m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★ Traverse of the Titans
From part way up the second pitch of Rua Tahi, head right to the anchor of Tantalus. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2013 | 30m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★ Rua Tahi Extension
Extend or unclip from the top of Rua Tahi, step right to the bolt you can see, then head north on small edges then jugs and over a bulge. | 24m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Rua Tahi
FA: Jon Sedon & Max Farr, 2007 | 12m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Bish Bosh Bash Extension
The awesome headwall above the ring bolt on Bish Bosh Bash. Finishes at the cold shuts. | 25m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ Bish Bosh Bash
FA: Al Ritchie, 2007 | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Multitude
Right of Solitude. The names are nicely written on the rock. FA: Erin Stewart, 2014 | 9m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Solitude
FA: Brooke Sandahl | 25m, 10 | |||
23 | Little Lucifer Extension
Top pitch of Little Lucifer. FA: Troy Mattingley, Thomas Adamson & Jon Sedon, 2007 | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★ Little Lucifer
Far left of the crag. Bouldery moves lead to a ring bolt belay and extension. FA: Troy Mattingley, Thomas Adamson & Jon Sedon, 2007 | 14m, 5 | |||
Fiordland Babylon Right Hand Wall | |||||
37 | 9b Mudda F#$&@r
Start as for Requiem, then straight up to anchor. Set: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | 25m, 6 | |||
30 | ★★★ Requiem
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 26m, 6 | |||
32 | ★★ Katalepsis
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 20m, 7 | |||
32 | ★★ Hammurabi
Starts just right of Fuel, finishes up the last bolt of Katalepsis. Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | 24m, 6 | |||
29 | ★★★ Fuel
1
29
24m
2
26
16m
Set: Bruce Dowrick FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003 | 40m, 2, 12 | |||
28 | ★★★ Sinanthropus
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 18m, 4 | |||
30 | ★★★ Rage
Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 18m, 6 | |||
35 | Red Dawn
| 25m, 8 | |||
34 | ★★★ Nebuchadnezzar
FA: Roland Hemetzberger, Jan 2016 | 25m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ The Whore of Babylon
Starts from the bottom of the big orange streak. After reaching the break, exciting moves on fictional footholds lead to a glory jug at the anchors. FA: Jonathon Clearwater & Derek Thatcher, 2004 | 16m, 6 | |||
28 | ★★ The Random Element
A few tricky moves lead up to the break, followed by a traverse requiring an unlikely sequence. From here finish up the crux of TWOB, exciting moves on fictional footholds lead to a glory jug at the anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2012 | 15m, 6 | |||
34 | Pegasus
Pitch above Euphrates. | 18m | |||
29 | ★★ Euphrates
Weave up the white wall to the break. FA: Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2008 | 20m | |||
27 | Smoke
Right of Fire. FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
Fiordland Babylon Left Hand Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Fire
Starts from the top of The Obvious Weakness. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
21 | ★ The Fire Escape
Starts left of the top of The Obvious Weakness. FA: Bruce Dowrick & Jon Sedon, 2005 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ The Obvious Weakness
1
17
18m
2
26
18m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2004 | 36m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Monsoon
30m if starting from the top of the fixed line, 35m from the ground. First bolt is slightly higher than comfortable. FA: Craig Jefferies & Jon Sedon, 2006 | 30m, 8 | |||
25 | Fading Grail
1
16
15m
2
25
32m
FA: Paul Rogers & Jon Sedon, 2003 | 47m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Dream Liberator
1
16
16m
2
22
16m
3
24
12m
FA: Murray Ball & Paul Rogers, 2003 | 44m, 3, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Twotogo
1
22
22m
2
25
20m
3
23
16m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Swenja Stellfeld, 2003 | 58m, 3, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Birdsong
1
19
20m
2
23
15m
3
26
20m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Gwilym Griffiths-Jones, 2002 | 55m, 3, 3 | |||
24 | The Right Groove
Variation to second pitch of Nature's Melody. Follow right-tending groove after third bolt. FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2005 | 7 | |||
23 | Nature's Melody
1
21
2
23
Start on a ledge with a large block hanging above, 10m left of Birdsong. Place cams up to first bolt. FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2005 | 2, 9 | |||
28 | ★★★ Piopiotahi
1
25
28m
2
28
30m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Jon Sedon, 2007 | 58m, 2, 17 | |||
25 | ★★ Project Aqua
1
24
20m
2
25
20m
3
24
20m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Lionel Clay, 2004 | 60m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ PSI
1
21
12m
2
25
26m
3
23
15m
FA: Jon Sedon, 2005 | 53m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ The Groper
1
17
12m
2
24
28m
Start from the first bolt along the ledge. FA: Craig Jefferies, 2004 | 40m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Epifright
1
21
16m
2
23
15m
3
20
15m
4
26
25m
Climb to the third bolt of Tufa Dub, then move right along the break. FA: Bruce Dowrick & Jon Sedon, 2006 | 71m, 4, 3 | |||
24 | ★★★ Tufa Dub
1
23
25m
2
24
25m
Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Follow the line of bolts directly up. FA: Jon Sedon, 2005 | 50m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Babbleon
1
23
2
25
Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Climb left to the first of 6 bolts through a small roof. FA: Bruce Dowrick & Troy Mattingley, 2005 | 2, 6 | |||
Surface Tension
Starts from the top of the first pitch of Leftism. FA: Bruce Dowrick, 2005 | 30m, 10 | ||||
23 | ★★ Leftism
1
18
20m
2
22
25m
3
15
10m
4
23
15m
FA: Bruce Dowrick & Jon Sedon, 2005 | 70m, 4, 7 | |||
Fiordland Babylon Babylonia | |||||
21 | ★ Your Anus
FA: Tom Adamson, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Osiris
FA: James Morris, 2012 | 18m, 8 | |||
23 | ProHomie
FA: Tom Adamson, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | Divinorum
FA: David Hood, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
Slab Project
| |||||
35 | Charon
| 22m, 8 | |||
34 | ★★ Orpheus
| 20m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Cerberus
FA: James Morris, 2012 | 18m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Tinnitus
FA: Troy Mattingley, 2013 | 20m, 7 | |||
Fiordland Darran Mountains Copper point | |||||
27 | Free Diver
1
27
30m
2
25
20m
3
24
20m
4
26
20m
5
26
25m
6
27
25m
7
19
25m
8
15m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon & Llewellyn Murdoch, May 2021 | 180m, 7 | |||
28 | Big Fish
1
26
28m
2
25
25m
3
24
26m
4
28
8m
5
26
35m
6
27
20m
7
14
14m
FA: Jon Sedon, Llewellyn Murdoch & Bruce Dowrick, Aug 2020 | 160m, 7 | |||
20 | ★★★ Man Overboard
1
20
30m
2
18
30m
3
18
30m
4
18
30m
5
16
30m
6
12
18m
7
20
30m
8
19
30m
FA: Ed Nepia & Joel Dean, Feb 2022 | 230m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Ship Of Fools
1
19
2
18
3
19
4
18
Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall. FA: Bruce Dowrick, Bryan Moore & Tony Ward-Holmes, 13 Dec 2014 | 170m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Aquaman
1
20
45m
2
18
35m
3
14
35m
4
18
20m
5
20
55m
6
21
40m
7
19
30m
Amazing adventure up the leading edge of Copper Point. The last 2 pitches are shared with Siren's Call | 260m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★★ Sirens Call
1
16
50m
2
23
30m
3
22
30m
4
23
30m
5
24
24m
6
21
40m
7
19
30m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner & David Vass, Mar 2017 | 230m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★★ Ta Moko
1
16
50m
2
23
30m
3
22
20m
4
25
45m
5
23
30m
6
22
40m
7
25
20m
8
21
15m
9
25
20m
10
15
30m
FA: Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner, James Speirs & Ed Nepia, Mar 2018 | 300m, 10 | |||
26 | Fistful Of Copper
1
25
25m
2
26
40m
Direct finish of Ta Moko FA: Llewellyn Murdoch & Jon Sedon, Nov 2022 | 65m, 8 |