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Routes as trad in China Wall

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 China Wall Climb

This used to climb the crack as for Shadowfax first pitch and continue up ledges for 2 further pitches to the top.

Trad 20m
21 Gelati Time Special

Climb past piton to good crack. The crack leads to ledge with bolts and old pitons.

FFA: J Goulstone, Bryce Martin, P Roberts & J Pawson, 1984

Trad 22m
18 Shadowfax

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

FA: R McBirney & C Smith, 1973

Trad 50m, 2
21 Gambatagwa

Starts below and right of 'That Summer/Shiny Goblins'. Originally climbed as 2 pitches, the numerous old pitons were replaced by bolts in 2021 and now generally done in 1 long pitch. At the ledge below Shiny Goblins is a single bolt to protect the belayer. From here climb easily up the slab with a mixture of bolts and trad gear. Get into the groove above and protect the crux with good small gear. Continue up the groove until it blanks out where a move left onto a ledge shared with 'Shiny Goblins' can be made. Go staight up the short arete and to the belay rings on the right.

FA: Pete Jemmett & Robbie McBirney, 1972

FFA: Robbie McBirney & Pete Jemmett, 1974

Mixed trad 40m, 10

Showing all 4 routes.

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