Mangatepopo Valley Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Sergey Komarov John Pitcairn Y Swery Lat Alexei Drummond Grant Johnston Brendan Heywood Zachary Brierley Sam Lancaster Ian.Grabowski

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 in Crag
- 1.1. Tuwharetoa 51 in Cliff
  - 1.1.1. Lower Tier 37 in Area
  - 1.1.2. Upper Tier 14 in Area
- 1.2. Bomb Bay Cliff 14 in Cliff
  - 1.2.1. Lower Routes 9 in Area
  - 1.2.2. Upper Routes 5 in Area
- 1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress 3 in Cliff
- 1.4. Middle Earth Crag 12 in Cliff
- 1.5. Tainui Cliff 1 in Cliff
- 1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall 1 in Cliff
- 1.7. Armchair Theatre 10 in Cliff
- 1.8. Hotu Cliffs 18 in Cliff
  - 1.8.1. West Wing 11 in Area
  - 1.8.2. East Wing 7 in Area
- 1.9. Te Arawa Cliffs 25 in Cliff
  - 1.9.1. Te Arawa Left 12 in Area
  - 1.9.2. Te Arawa Right 13 in Area
- 1.10. Mt Tongariro Cliffs 1 in Cliff
  - 1.10.1. South Crater Ridge Left 1 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Tuwharetoa 2 Bomb Bay Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.145976, 175.607615

1.1. Tuwharetoa 51 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -39.149979, 175.599466

1.1.1. Lower Tier 37 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Baby Elephant	17	Trad 40m
2	White Elephant	20	Trad 40m
3	Glubetroil	16	Trad 40m
4	Hanging Garden Chimney	12	Trad 50m
5	Vegetated Crack	16	Trad 35m
6	The Alliance	23	Trad 35m
7	Under A Blood Red Sky	22	Trad 37m
8	Wham, Bam, Thanks Saddam	18	Trad 40m
9	Lic-Pa	12	Trad 15m
10	Peapod	15	Trad 15m
11	Thin Crack	16	Trad 15m
12	Karitane Smiles	16	Trad 15m
13	★★ Complan	16	Trad 15m
14	★ Between The Lines	14	Trad 20m
15	★ Up An At 'Em	16	Trad 16m
16	Slap Arete	21	Top rope 15m
17	★ Death Wall	13	Trad 12m
18	★★ Ta-Lo	15	Trad 20m
19	Big Sur	22	Trad 20m
20	★★ Parc Lane	18	Trad 15m
21	★★ Arnold Lane / Arnold Layne FA: Rick McGregor & Bryce Martin, 1975	16	Trad 15m
22	One For Di	12	Trad 10m
23	★ White Sabbath Completed in a snow storm to avoid loosing yet another route to marauding invaders. FA: Ray Button & Stu Allan	17	Trad 30m
24	Terrible Time	16	Trad 40m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
25	★ 90 Degrees In My Shades	21	Trad 30m
26	Big Greenie	15	Trad 40m
27	Gossamer Groove	17	Trad 40m
28	Vege Groove	15	Trad 40m
29	★ Jemmett's Jam Creek FA: Pete Jemmett, 1973	17	Trad 40m
30	Vee Groove	16	Trad 40m
31	Grease Trap	14	Trad 55m
32	Vee Grovel And Groovey	16	Trad 55m
33	★ Cirrus Minor	17	Trad 50m
34	★ Pow R Toc H	21	Trad 20m
35	★★★ The Tempest	21	Trad 50m
36	Powderfinger	22	Trad
37	Grantchester Meadows	16	Trad 40m

1.1.2. Upper Tier 14 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Pig Bucket	14	Unknown 30m
2	Striptease	14	Unknown 30m
3	Symphony the 1st route to break the defences. FA: Ray Button & Graeme Dingle	18	Trad 100m
4	Judge's Diagonal	16	Unknown 40m
5	Fuck Me Rigid	24	Unknown 40m
6	Unfinished Groove	17	Unknown 20m
7	★ Pooh Corner	18	Unknown 75m
8	Arh	14	Unknown
9	Hand Traverse	17	Unknown 25m
10	Um	16	Unknown 20m
11	Ladybird Walk FA: Ray Button; Ray Button/Keith Lawry	16	Unknown 20m
12	Dog's Hind Legs	15	Unknown 20m
13	Crankshaft Girdle	18 AID:A1	Aid 110m
14	Cavalino	13	Unknown 25m

1.2. Bomb Bay Cliff 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.149971, 175.604482

1.2.1. Lower Routes 9 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Full Metal Jacket	18 AID:A2	Aid 20m
2	Life, The Universe, And Everything First route through overhangs immediately left of Bomb Arete 45m (15) 20m (18) 45m (12)	18	Trad 110m, 3
3	★ Boulder Problems On the left of the Arete is a thin crack leading to a overhanging wall. 30m (22) 30m (17) 60m (8)	22	Trad 120m, 3
4	★ American Pie	17	Trad 30m
5	★★★ Bomb Arete The obvious long arete visible from the Tongariro Crossing track. Start at the toe of the arete. 30m (14): Straight up the arete following hand and fist cracks until you reach a bulge, then make a delicate move left. Continue up to good belay ledge. 20m (16): Up and slightly left into a shallow corner split by a finger crack. Pull straight up through the middle of this then up through slabby ground to a belay. 60m (10): Up through very broken and sometimes loose terrain, tending left around a large block, then rightwards to finish up the gully at a full 60m rope length. Continue to scramble up and eastwards (toward the head of the Mangatepopo valley) to find the steep grassy gully you can scramble down (it's not the first gully). Be careful not to get bluffed. FA: Graeme Dingle, 1972	16	Trad 110m, 3
6	Wainui Route	15	Trad 30m
7	The Jolly Route	18	Trad
8	Power And Corruption	21	Trad 8m
9	★ Lies And Deceit	19	Trad 30m

1.2.2. Upper Routes 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Plum Duff	15	Trad 30m
2	★ Ginger Crunch	19	Trad 30m
3	Racing Sardine	19	Trad 30m
4	The Bomb	16	Trad 30m
5	Dangerous Aquaintances	20	Trad 25m

1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Pull Now FA: Graeme Dingle & OPC students	13	Trad 50m
2	Ray's Misty Climb FA: Ray Button & Graeme Dingle	18	Trad 50m
3	Easy Day For A Hobbit FA: Graeme Dingle & Ray Button	16	Trad 50m

1.4. Middle Earth Crag 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Gandalf	11	Trad
2	Arete Of Despair	21	Top rope
3	Baggins	15	Trad
4	Bilbo	14	Trad
5	Shadowfax	12	Trad
6	Modor	12	Trad
7	Gollum	15	Trad
8	Unclimbed Crack	16	Trad
9	Frodo	10	Trad
10	Hobbit Hill Slab	10	Trad
11	Easy Gully	4	Trad
12	Rivendell Slab	9 - 14	Trad

1.5. Tainui Cliff 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Jim's Gully	14	Unknown 40m

1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Aqualung FA: Brian Staite	12	Unknown 8m

1.7. Armchair Theatre 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Piker FA: Ray Button	8	Trad
2	The Gallery FA: Ray Button	8	Trad
3	★ Hangman FA: Ray Button	14	Trad
4	The Gallows FA: Ray Button	15	Trad
5	Fly FA: Ray Button	10	Trad
6	★ Fly Direct FA: Ray Button	12	Trad
7	Cleavage	14	Trad
8	Reach For The Sky FA: Ray Button	13	Trad
9	Orangutang FA: Ray Button	14	Trad
10	Blindman's Bluff FA: Tony Parker	8	Trad

1.8. Hotu Cliffs 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

1.8.1. West Wing 11 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Shrinker	14	Trad 15m
2	Tender Touch FA: Ray Button, 1983	18	Trad 15m
3	★★ Cioch FA: Graeme Dingle, 1972	14	Trad 70m, 2
4	Not Feasybull	18	Trad 15m
5	Mad Movies	AID:A3	Aid 15m
6	Blood	14	Trad 15m
7	Just Feasybull	12	Trad 15m
8	Potrezebie Left	12	Trad 15m
9	Potrezebie	12	Trad 15m
10	Potrezebie Right	9	Trad 15m
11	Cleft Chimney	13	Trad 10m

1.8.2. East Wing 7 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Aid climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Ringatu	11	Trad 15m
2	Ringatu Direct	15	Trad 15m
3	Swerv	17 AID:A2	Aid 15m
4	Swing	17	Aid 15m
5	Tuhoe	14	Trad 20m
6	Te Kooti	17	Trad 15m
7	The Tumbler	16	Trad 10m

1.9. Te Arawa Cliffs 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad climbing

1.9.1. Te Arawa Left 12 routes in Area

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Futtichs End	8	Trad
2	No Sweat	12	Trad
3	Pinnochio	15	Trad
4	Guts	16	Trad
5	Sweat	10	Trad
6	Tears	11	Trad
7	Jam Butties	16	Trad
8	Debbie's Dilemma Direct	16	Trad
9	Debbie's Dilemma	11	Trad
10	Snot	12	Trad
11	Super Snot	14	Trad
12	Sweeney	12	Trad

1.9.2. Te Arawa Right 13 routes in Area

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Final Examinations	15	Trad
2	Shit Route	15	Trad
3	Wild Colonial Boy FA: Ray Button	16	Trad
4	Blue Bottle	15	Trad
5	Grip Pipe Thin	14	Trad
6	Garden Path	13	Trad
7	Wall Of Shadows	16	Trad
8	R.I.P.	13	Trad
9	Heavy Breathing	15	Trad
10	Doug and Ding's Climb	16	Trad
11	Elfingrotto	10	Trad
12	★ Magical Mystery Tour	14	Trad
13	Dilemma	12	Trad

1.10. Mt Tongariro Cliffs 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Rock climbing

1.10.1. South Crater Ridge Left 1 route in Area

Summary:

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Knickers	15	Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
4		Easy Gully	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
8		Blindman's Bluff	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Piker	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		The Gallery	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Futtichs End	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
9		Potrezebie Right	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
10		Frodo	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Hobbit Hill Slab	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Fly	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Sweat	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Elfingrotto	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
11		Gandalf	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
	★	Ringatu	Trad 15m	1.8.2. East Wing
		Debbie's Dilemma	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Tears	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
12		Hanging Garden Chimney	Trad 50m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Lic-Pa	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		One For Di	Trad 10m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Modor	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Shadowfax	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Aqualung	Unknown 8m	1.6. Mangatepopo Waterfall
	★	Fly Direct	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Just Feasybull	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
		Potrezebie	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
		Potrezebie Left	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
		No Sweat	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Snot	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Sweeney	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Dilemma	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
13	★	Death Wall	Trad 12m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Cavalino	Unknown 25m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Pull Now	Trad 50m	1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
		Reach For The Sky	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Cleft Chimney	Trad 10m	1.8.1. West Wing
		Garden Path	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		R.I.P.	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
9 - 14		Rivendell Slab	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
14	★	Between The Lines	Trad 20m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Grease Trap	Trad 55m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Arh	Unknown	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Pig Bucket	Unknown 30m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Striptease	Unknown 30m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Bilbo	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Jim's Gully	Unknown 40m	1.5. Tainui Cliff
		Cleavage	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
	★	Hangman	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Orangutang	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Blood	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
	★★	Cioch	Trad 70m, 2	1.8.1. West Wing
		The Shrinker	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
		Tuhoe	Trad 20m	1.8.2. East Wing
		Super Snot	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Grip Pipe Thin	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
	★	Magical Mystery Tour	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
15		Big Greenie	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Peapod	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★★	Ta-Lo	Trad 20m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Vege Groove	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Dog's Hind Legs	Unknown 20m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Wainui Route	Trad 30m	1.2.1. Lower Routes
	★★	Plum Duff	Trad 30m	1.2.2. Upper Routes
		Baggins	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		Gollum	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		The Gallows	Trad	1.7. Armchair Theatre
		Ringatu Direct	Trad 15m	1.8.2. East Wing
		Pinnochio	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Blue Bottle	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Final Examinations	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Heavy Breathing	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Shit Route	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Knickers	Unknown	1.10.1. South Crater Ridge Left
16	★★	Arnold Lane	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★★	Complan	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Glubetroil	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Grantchester Meadows	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Karitane Smiles	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Terrible Time	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Thin Crack	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Up An At 'Em	Trad 16m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Vee Groove	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Vee Grovel And Groovey	Trad 55m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Vegetated Crack	Trad 35m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Judge's Diagonal	Unknown 40m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Ladybird Walk	Unknown 20m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Um	Unknown 20m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
	★★★	Bomb Arete	Trad 110m, 3	1.2.1. Lower Routes
		The Bomb	Trad 30m	1.2.2. Upper Routes
		Easy Day For A Hobbit	Trad 50m	1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
		Unclimbed Crack	Trad	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
		The Tumbler	Trad 10m	1.8.2. East Wing
		Debbie's Dilemma Direct	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Guts	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Jam Butties	Trad	1.9.1. Te Arawa Left
		Doug and Ding's Climb	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Wall Of Shadows	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
		Wild Colonial Boy	Trad	1.9.2. Te Arawa Right
17		Baby Elephant	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Cirrus Minor	Trad 50m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Gossamer Groove	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Jemmett's Jam Creek	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	White Sabbath	Trad 30m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Hand Traverse	Unknown 25m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Unfinished Groove	Unknown 20m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
	★	American Pie	Trad 30m	1.2.1. Lower Routes
		Swing	Aid 15m	1.8.2. East Wing
		Te Kooti	Trad 15m	1.8.2. East Wing
17 A2		Swerv	Aid 15m	1.8.2. East Wing
18	★★	Parc Lane	Trad 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Wham, Bam, Thanks Saddam	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Pooh Corner	Unknown 75m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Symphony	Trad 100m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
		Life, The Universe, And Everything	Trad 110m, 3	1.2.1. Lower Routes
		The Jolly Route	Trad	1.2.1. Lower Routes
		Ray's Misty Climb	Trad 50m	1.3. Misty Mountain Buttress
		Not Feasybull	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
		Tender Touch	Trad 15m	1.8.1. West Wing
18 A1		Crankshaft Girdle	Aid 110m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
18 A2		Full Metal Jacket	Aid 20m	1.2.1. Lower Routes
19	★	Lies And Deceit	Trad 30m	1.2.1. Lower Routes
	★	Ginger Crunch	Trad 30m	1.2.2. Upper Routes
		Racing Sardine	Trad 30m	1.2.2. Upper Routes
20		White Elephant	Trad 40m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Dangerous Aquaintances	Trad 25m	1.2.2. Upper Routes
21	★	90 Degrees In My Shades	Trad 30m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Pow R Toc H	Trad 20m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Slap Arete	Top rope 15m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★★★	The Tempest	Trad 50m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Power And Corruption	Trad 8m	1.2.1. Lower Routes
		Arete Of Despair	Top rope	1.4. Middle Earth Crag
22		Big Sur	Trad 20m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Powderfinger	Trad	1.1.1. Lower Tier
		Under A Blood Red Sky	Trad 37m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
	★	Boulder Problems	Trad 120m, 3	1.2.1. Lower Routes
23		The Alliance	Trad 35m	1.1.1. Lower Tier
24		Fuck Me Rigid	Unknown 40m	1.1.2. Upper Tier
A3		Mad Movies	Aid 15m	1.8.1. West Wing