Routes as trad in Tongariro National Park

Completed in a snow storm to avoid loosing yet another route to marauding invaders.

the 1st route to break the defences.

First route through overhangs immediately left of Bomb Arete

1. 45m (15)

2. 20m (18)

3. 45m (12)

On the left of the Arete is a thin crack leading to a overhanging wall.

1. 30m (22)

2. 30m (17)

3. 60m (8)

The obvious long arete visible from the Tongariro Crossing track. Start at the toe of the arete.

1. 30m (14): Straight up the arete following hand and fist cracks until you reach a bulge, then make a delicate move left. Continue up to good belay ledge.

2. 20m (16): Up and slightly left into a shallow corner split by a finger crack. Pull straight up through the middle of this then up through slabby ground to a belay.

3. 60m (10): Up through very broken and sometimes loose terrain, tending left around a large block, then rightwards to finish up the gully at a full 60m rope length. Continue to scramble up and eastwards (toward the head of the Mangatepopo valley) to find the steep grassy gully you can scramble down (it's not the first gully). Be careful not to get bluffed.