Ascents in Waipapa as Clean

Top rope to the first mantle then lead from second mantle to end clean. Need to come back with a dustpan to clean the top and get a proper sport tick

repeat

Crack climbing experience may help, as well as grabbing your own foot

#repeat #cleaningduties

Thought it'd be fun to climb it again without worrying about gear... turns out leading it was way better! 🤣

Bottom requires committment, jammed the middle, grunted the top. Physical.

Been a while I think. Start a bit goey for a warmup.

I gave the crack and holds a big clean after, so have a go!

It was very wet and greasy, so Justin got on it first, and fell onto the first cam/the ground. Then I did some aiding to reach the upper corner, which was drier, but the sidewalls were unusable, I was short a #3 again so I got Justin to finish it. Then sent it on TR

Climbed the first pitch to find the hangers have been removed :-(. Eric couldn't identify where the rest of the route went and so we had to backtrack down to the lower ledge where we could escape of a bolt and a tree, apparently the second pitch is doable and would have been a better option. Guides should either be updated or the bolts re-instated. Quite a bit of rope drag at this point so probably reinstatement of anchor would be a better option.

Great clean ascent, bottom is always harder than you expect. Wanted to bridge more but couldn't get it working, had some interesting back to the wall "rests". Managed to take some photos with some hands free rests.

Repeat.

Amazing route. Definitely one to come back and lead.

So technical!

Such a unique route.

Re:title

The crux is getting from the hand crack to the offwidth. I just managed to do it. Then a strenuous layback on the offwidth. Hard work.

Warmup. Declined to get on Star Gazer.

Gareth's first trad fall, on his 21st! Gear was good. Did the middle crack as pure hand/foot jamming, very nice.

Retrieving anchor.

Followed Jonno up the first pitch. Looked at the chimney but neither of us was too keen to lead it, would love to get ontop of the detached pillar.

First pitch is OK, though expect to build a trad anchor. Followed Gareth's P2 caver lead, a pretty hideous and strenous wide thrutch fest. Maybe it's better to go out and layback the left edge of the column?