Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 | ★★ Hiroshima - with Elspeth Napier | 26m | |||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Elspeth Napier | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 Easy | ★★ Hiroshima — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip
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27 | ★★ Hiroshima — 2 attempts | 26m | |||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
17 |
★ Mortality
1
17
15m
Top pitch way too mossy, and due to confusion went the wrong way and ended up 8m to the left of the route
2
16m
| 31m, 13 | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven — 6 attempts - with Clément, AJ Lee, AJ | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
High point left hand in pocket by 5th (foot popped ) black point from start of 2nd crux.
Amazing slab 100000/10 |
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26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven | 25m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with AJ Lee | 35m, 13 | |||||
Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven | 25m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Matt | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 ~19 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Iker Sustatxa | 20m, 10 | |||||
A fight near the 4th bolt. Great cracks and jamming (feet and fingers)
Loose rock just after the first bolt - it’s the obvious jug that’s loose |
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Got shut down by the corner. Now I know what to do!
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun!
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18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★ Mortality - with Kiera Montgomery | 31m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Quality pitch. Would recommend doing the 2nd pitch if you're up there.
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22 Hard | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Kiera Montgomery | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard smearing. If this is 22 then Popeye is 21. Could even be soft 23 as Robin felt slightly easier than this.
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23 ~22 | ★ Popeye - with Kiera Montgomery | 30m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
It is significantly easier than any of the other 23s at Waipapa. Even at 22 it'll be on the softer side.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 10 | |||||
Climbing it much better than the first time. Actually felt like 18 if you know some offwidthing and commit to the crack.
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
repeat
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ The Arches - with AJ | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Red point #3rdGo Nice route!
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23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flubbed the transition to slab
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23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very close to onsight. Came off in sea of lichen over the lip after the crux.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Kiera Montgomery | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven — 3 attempts - with Kiera Montgomery | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux 1: Know what to do, can do it (thanks to finding a new foot & Kiera's suggestion of stepping though)
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it (weak fingers)
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Gerald Lanning | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yeh, that start, rough for an 18 [or should that be smooth, so polished!]. Great to get it cleanly, was touch and go at a few points, but good management, and a mantle finish ftw.
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with brook | 20m, 10 | |||||
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with MightyYellowToes | 35m, 13 | |||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Stu Fu | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Flo Roeske | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route. Interesting start with a cruisy section further up.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tricky start section. Cool route.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Crack climbing experience may help, as well as grabbing your own foot
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Unfortunately didn’t get it clean, interesting climbing for me in the crack at the bottom and then very easy above that.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with Ryan, Lizzy | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Checking out the climb again:
Crux 1: Don't know what to do
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with frank the tank | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux is the start up the crack. Harder if you miss the sedgeway left.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Seattle Rain — 2 attempts | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 |
★ Mortality P1
1
15
| 15m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with Kiera Montgomery | 25m, 8 | |||||
Worked the multiple cruxes. One to come back for
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 10 | |||||
Hardest 18 I've done in a while. Foot jamming and chicken wings on a sport climb
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18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Kiera Montgomery | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
What a climb, easy to take during climb as the layback feels so sketchy but definitley one ill be coming back to do clean
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Stopped at Gauche Mais Pas Maladroit anchors since I had nobody to second it.
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22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Small balance move
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18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not a good warm up. A bit pumpy. Only climbed half of the route to the anchor of another 18.
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Mon 25th Jul 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent climb. Thoroughly enjoyed from start to finish
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Eric Liu | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
23 |
★ Popeye (Popeye P1)
| 13m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Marnus, Nathan, Samuel Malan | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went wrong way around 3rd. Cool crux
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22 | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Samuel Malan, Sam Turner, Nathan | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Sam Turner, Samuel Malan, Marnus | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
First few moves are a wee bit tricky
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Thibaut, Nathan | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn’t really engage try-hard mode. Probably needed a break after training yesterday. But this is a very nice route and at least I did all the moves
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22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alexei Drummond, Samuel Malan | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with ZhenZhen, Cynthia Leewardus | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Gareth, Jake | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Been a while I think. Start a bit goey for a warmup.
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18 | ★★★ The Arches - with John Pitcairn, jake gray | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Clean lead, without cheesegrating on the start, or having my heart broken by the finish. This lulled me into thinking I could maybe still actually climb, before Waipapa made me eat that assumption.
Always a great line, shame I can never remember where the holds to get the finish nicely are. Forgetting to clip the bolt before the anchors that makes flubbing the mantle less aggravating, definitely sharpened the senses |
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18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Wed 12th Jan 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The start kinda sucked, after that it was very cool
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Fri 3rd Dec 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Eric Horn | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great clean ascent, bottom is always harder than you expect. Wanted to bridge more but couldn't get it working, had some interesting back to the wall "rests". Managed to take some photos with some hands free rests.
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Sun 25th Apr 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Fri 9th Apr 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with krippner | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard . A few hours on rope working it over maybe 2 sessions I’d say . Sent 2nd tie in to rp ( first tie in with light :p ) on edge .
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Sun 21st Mar 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kyle | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Kyle | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 20th Mar 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 23rd Feb 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 29th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with andrew | 35m, 13 | |||||
Previously led
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with andrew | 20m, 10 | |||||
Tough but glad to get clean. Would probably get 19/20 at another crag...
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Tue 22nd Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
20 | ★★ Ben’s Big Day Out | 22m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Difficult climbing on dirty holds with average gear. At my very limit. Recommended for climbers who are already very confident climbing on gear at 20/21, and I guess I barely make the cut...
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18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Repeat. The gift that keeps on giving. Fabulous climbing from the layback start through to the mantle finish. Cemented in my top 3 for NZ. World class.
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Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had tried this one a long time ago and actually went through the crux (bottom to 3rd bolt, basically) but made a grave route reading mistake and tried to go right of the 3rd bolt instead of left 😂 (it's pretty blank to the right!) Went down easily this time, as I'd remembered that fateful onsight attempt, and gosh is the sequence fun up to the 3rd bolt!! Can't wait to start trad climbing so I can get more of this crack flavour (shut up), jamming and stacking my feet into little dihedrals, etc.!
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Fri 18th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go. Flash attempt failed after third bolt. Then went to top.
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second go. Same place. Depressing.
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Redpoint. This was the first time I needed more than one go on an 18 in 2020! Well I am not quite an 18 climber yet But at least I learned how to finger lock and foot jam today
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Tue 15th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
19 18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Hard to grade as it’s just that one hard section around grade 20-21 while the rest is pretty cruisy. 18 still feels stiff though...
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18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 |