Routes in Wharepapa Rock

Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

Climb the arete, bulge, short face to finish on a big ledge.

The direct line to 'The Wicker Man'

Shared start with 'Via Dolorosa' then follows left diagonal seam.

Climb up and slightly right. Sustained.

Start right of 'Via Dolorosa' and trend right following diagonal holds. Sustained.

Climb the overhanging arête. Heel-hooking goodness.

Steep runnel with overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs.

Follow the overhanging arete.

Difficult moves through the bulge then cruise to the top.

The direct line to 'Bhang Lhassi'

Start as for speedy Gonzales but head left up the black streak.

Start at back of alcove up overhanging short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.

Climb the wide groove with difficult moves at half height. Up the slab to finish.

Starts right side of alcove up ramp trending to arete above the roof of 'Torquemada' Lovely exposure.

Start as for Torquemada, onto the short face then finish up Rok It To The Moon.

The right hand end of main wall, a low roof with ground dropping away

Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

Start above big boulder. Then tend left with slab climbing on big pockets. Shares first three bolts with Wally's Womble.

Shares the first three bolts with Always the Sun, then takes the right line of bolts on the slab.

Climb the slab to the short overhanging face. Balancy.

Don't let the low grade fool you. Direct start will be a challenge.

Nice shaded climb, anchor is towards the left

The left side of the Going Ape roof, via the bolts then run it out to the peg (is it still there?) on Krishna, then up and left to the Lentil Nightmare belay.

Burly and interesting moves getting through the initial roof to a no hands rest. Dawdle up the easy slab to finish.

Good holds up to first bolt then strong move over to left wall and up slab.

Crimps to start, up vertical wall, then onto slab.

Shares the first bolt of Holy Braille

Original route name offensive. Included the word "lycra", which was presumably not the offensive part.

Climb the short yet steep arete.

The steep hand crack below the 'Infidel' arete.

The thin crack in the corner, just left of 'Hare Rama'.

Excellent thin slab climbing, with high first bolt, to steeper head wall on small pockets.

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

Start up the arete to a good rest at half height. Either take some nuts to reduce the risk of ground-fall getting to the third bolt or just run it out. Same top as 'Jug Abuse'

The fantastic face. Climb directly up the face. If you use the crack halfway up for a rest, as for ‘Jug Abuse’ or ‘Just Say No To Cracks’, the climb is a grade less. This climb is a pure line.

Follow the obvious crack in the dihedral. The difficulty increases where the angle changes.

Fantastic arete climb. Three cruxes, one being the mantle onto huge ledge near the top.

Up and over the flake.

Climb the pillar up to the headwall.

The last climb before moving around the corner. Climb the face and arete.

Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face. Closed due to anchor damage.

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

Tough start up through scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds

NOT the bolts, that is Wild Country Express. The corner crack on trad gear. Be careful of the rock at top.

Vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

Great holds all the way up right side of vertical face.

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.

Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.

Straight up the wall then easier after the lip.

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing. Originally climbed on gear, and still can be.

Pumpy arete climb

Great holds on steep face.