Ascents in Main Cliff

So stoked Valhalla went down in 3 sessions.

Really enjoyed getting my ass kicked on this one.

Top crux suits me really well. I can static to the ledge quite easily. Bottom crux between 1st and 2nd bolt has the hardest move for me.

Still can’t link one move to the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. But did the top crux again quite easily and just climbed up onto the ledge to get into the Robin route. Game on.

Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip

Had a great time figuring this one out.

First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now

Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.

Got all moves this session. Middle is dialed with the two hard moves being hard (duh) A contender for my first 27

Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.

Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

Overall good session with everyone making substantial progress. Gratz Braden on your first 27, at Waipapa no less 👍

Really surprised myself with this one. Was luckily to get all the beta upfront and was ble to pull all the moves quickly. had some beta to work out second session at the start but managed last go best go. After taking some pretty big and rough falls yesterday at the first bolt so I decided to climb with the second draw pre clipped. Keen to come back and send with clipping the second

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.

First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.

Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.

Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.

Worked the top move to understand the tension required. Just need to be sure of the lower crux and it's ready for send goes.

Awesome technical climbing. Alexei's redpoint was just the push I needed today. 2nd bolt preclipped.

Awesome climb. My first 26!

Everything except that one slab dyno

Hard . A few hours on rope working it over maybe 2 sessions I’d say . Sent 2nd tie in to rp ( first tie in with light :p ) on edge .

Fitting name as it seems unattainable.

Thought I was on Honey Bee (18), absurd route finding error. Techy 23-24 climbing up to 4th bolt where a blank face with shallow pockets awaits. A bit hard for a warmup…

Checked out the moves on the cool looking climb. They were cool and hard.

Worked the multiple cruxes. One to come back for

Checking out the climb again: Crux 1: Don't know what to do Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it

Been meaning to try this for a while. Worked middle and top.

Worked 3rd bolt which will be the crux for me. Middle/top hard but easy. Maybe first 26 if I return.

Crux 1: Know what to do, can do it (thanks to finding a new foot & Kiera's suggestion of stepping though) Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it (weak fingers) Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it

Putting up the draws and remembering moves

Worked out how to do the bottom boulder. Hot.