Ascensioni in Main Cliff

Defeated by the mantle to the anchor.

Second go mid afternoon. Much better conditions. Did all the moves in a few hangs except for clipping the 6th bolt (which I grabbed instead). If you mantle out right it seems perhaps easier than 26. If you mantle direct to the anchor it seems harder. Up to the last bolt felt 24-25ish, though maybe it would feel harder on the send.

Onsight attempt didn't last long Got to the 5th bolt with one hang and was sweating in full sun, so decided to try again later.

Top roped it for shits and giggles, managed to do all the moves except for the top out.

Gets harder towards the top…

Accidentally slipped moving up to the 3rd bolt. Gonna blame the moss

Found it pretty spooky, keen to go back for the redpoint!

Found the feet hard to trust, great learnings!

Awesome technical climbing. Alexei's redpoint was just the push I needed today. 2nd bolt preclipped.

Got surprisingly far accounted to all the on lookers. Super cryptic climb that would require some goes just to figure out the body positions

Worked the top move to understand the tension required. Just need to be sure of the lower crux and it's ready for send goes.

Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.

Warm up/hanging draws on Batman

Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.

Felt like a whanganui bay climb so points for that. Fun times. 22/23

First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.

Sudo grovelling in the corner down low to thuggy moves to the mantle. I'll take a climb 28 climbers struggle on. Waipapa 23 so could be 24 elsewhere

Grovelled up and worked out the beta. Also ripped a flake off the main wall. Still climbs the same

Warm up/to film Braden

One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Really surprised myself with this one. Was luckily to get all the beta upfront and was ble to pull all the moves quickly. had some beta to work out second session at the start but managed last go best go. After taking some pretty big and rough falls yesterday at the first bolt so I decided to climb with the second draw pre clipped. Keen to come back and send with clipping the second

Overall good session with everyone making substantial progress. Gratz Braden on your first 27, at Waipapa no less 👍

#repeat

#repeat

Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.