Ascents of Black Widow

Great fun. Looking forward to trying the 28 extension

Injured my right hand Maybe the flexor tendon attachment point. It made a popping sound while I was holding the 2nd bolt clipping hold two-finger pocket. I will go to the hand physio next week...

Almost got it on the second go. Shout out to Alex Popinga for the beta and sick acsend!!!

Fucking loved this route! Took me awhile to dial - probably bit off more than I could really chew initially - but absolutely cruised it in the end! Actually fell in love with the small pocket sequences from ground to 2nd bolt, sidepulls and bowling ball pinch pockets to 3rd bolt. Crux for me was going from clipping the 4th bolt and getting into the roof. So much tension to keep the feet on! Flagging very useful, for bumping to the edge of the roof and for quick shake out of right hand on the big heel hook under the arch (first part of roof) ♡ For several send attempts I kept powering out trying to get to/clip the 5th bolt even though it's juggy and easy in isolation - power endurance needed! I even decked once trying to clip the 5th bolt... just held the freaking slack out while fumbling - play gumby games, win gumby prizes! 🏆 Send felt fucking good, though 🖤🕷🕸 Can't wait to get strong enough for the full "Back from the Web" route all the way through the arch!

Thanks, Daniel Krippner, for the sick route! ♡ Thanks so much to Chris Hailey for support, tactical suggestions, footage. And thanks to Thibaut and Ryan Yang for encouragement, too. And of course, big big thanks to Alexei for all the belaying, love and support!!!

video to come

Shouldn't have got on this three days in a row. Have damaged the tendon of my middle finger on left hand when the index finger slipped out of two finger pocket putting all the weight on my middle finger suddenly #injury

High point. Still pretty pitiful. Climbed to the bowling ball pockets between 2nd and 3rd bolt. But didn't get the side pull correctly. 2.5 moves to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. Also saw the top for the first time, so at least I have done most of the moves in isolation now. Definitely not my style, but really nice to see Alex's progress on it.

Second attempt of the day. The pockets are eating my fingers.

Surprisingly I managed to clip the second draw. But generally my fingers still can't stand the pockets on this one. Maybe if I give it some concentrated attention my fingers will acclimatize?

Second go of the day. Made very little progress.

Yeeeeees, happy with this hang dog! 🐕 None of that aid shit or grabbing draws to clip, nah. Look, I know hang dogs are not generally impressive, but on the first try it had felt almost impossibly hard (for the 3 bolts) and then scary af with the run out and swing between 4th and 5th bolts. But today I cranked through all those tiny sharp pockets and shit through 4 bolts and, after a rest and getting myself psyched, I easily charged through the fun and juggy roof section to clip the 5th bolt surrounded by jugs 🖤 both easy and fun, and anyway climbing is best with a little spice!!! 🌶

🕷 Beta tips for myself for send attempt(s): from deep 2 finger pocket on the left hand just above 1st bolt, bump right hand from good solid crimp (we'll call "Bob") up and out right. Ignore the multiple other right hand bumping options and get feet high, including right foot into big ole jug (that I go for once established on the route). Then big crossover move to get right hand into 3 finger pocket that is the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. Left foot goes into small pocket (that was ticked for me from some previous climber) and high right foot into solid crimp ("Bob"). Clip. Then stand up and get left hand into big pocket that has crimp ledge on bottom half and undercling knob on top. Left foot on good chip. Right foot on good crimp edge. Left hand into really good sidepull. Get crimp above 2nd bolt with right hand. Bump left hand to higher, lefter, sharper sidepull. Swap feet so right foot is on chip. Crank to get "bowling ball" pockets with right hand, adjust if necessary. Crank up, keeping hardcore core tension to those 3 holds immediately right of 3rd draw, bottom pocket is smallest but juggiest. Right foot onto massive crimp ledge and cranking hard with left hand to get big jug that is the clipping hold for 3rd bolt (to the right of it). Pretty smooth sailing to 4th bolt, remember sharp "egg" 🥚 hold far right of the 4th bolt can help to clip it. Then jugs everywhere, keep core tension going into roof, remember heel hook on massive jug under the arch/roof, slightly higher jug for left hand, LOCK OFF left arm to reach high with right hand. Get good crimp/okayish jug then bump higher with right hand for amazing jug. (Don't forget to go heel to toe with left foot to help get up there at some point 😄) Top is mossy & muddy as hell but it's like a grade 10 to anchor so whatevs 🤎

Checked the moves up to 4th bolt. Although the arch has jugs I didn’t have the gumption to go for 5th bolt. Pockets to sharp for my weak fingers anyway.