Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 31st Aug 2008 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally ticked this thing. Used it as a warmup on TR and then sent it afterwards. Really nice climb. super fun
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Sun 20th Jul 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Lower Meadow Toxic Hueco Area | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Toxic Hueco | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Took two burns on this and it could now be my favorite climb to date. It is so very much fun. I managed to one fall it on the 2nd go so I think and hope the redpoint will be very soon. Absolutely stellar line.
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Sun 20th Jul 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Lower Meadow Tan Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Campground Sluts | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty good fun for a short little warm up. 3 bolts that are generously spaced out. Very old angle-iron type hangers.
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Sat 19th Jul 2008 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Used this as a sort of warm-up for Scenic Adult. Figured out pretty good beta for the top crux. Hard to believe it was 2005 when I first ticked this thing. Great climb.
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5.10c | ★★ First Steps | ★ Good | ||||
Warmed up on this before Scenic Adult. I had forgotten how good it was.
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5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got it on my first try of the day. Super fun climb. However, if this thing is the same grade as Toxic Hueco at Lower Meadow I'm the Easter Bunny....
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Fri 27th Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Control | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another rainy day. Bottom was very damp but rest was good. Early section was crimpy and hard but rest is pretty doable.
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Thu 26th Jun 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Got it
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5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Got it
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Tue 17th Jun 2008 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Long Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ No Way, Jose | 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super good climb. Finally found the good hold that makes it feel so much easier.
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Mon 16th Jun 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Push | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustained climbing on good holds. Very nice route up the beautful first buttress.
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5.12a | ★★★ Push | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustained climbing on good holds. Super fun climb.
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5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Warmed up on this one and got a little pumped at the anchors. Clipping the anchors is probably the crux...
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Sun 15th Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Took two more burns on this thing and got it with one fall. Can't believe I waited so long to get back on it. It's stellar. I think the one crux clip was moved lower as it didn't seem nearly as scary as I recalled....
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5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two more tries. Should go very soon.
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Sat 29th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Seek the Truth | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This thing was my nemesis for several days. Think I tried it 5+ times. Never did get it clean. Super fun and quite burly at the top. I'll definitely be trying it again someday. One of my favorites of the week.
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Fri 28th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the best of the four on this section of wall. Very fun and so different from everything else we did all week, i.e not pumpy
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5.11a | ★★ Critters on the Cliff | 23m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Very nice climb. Only one move that is kind of 5.11 and the rest is like the other tens here, mostly vertical with bigger holds. Fun climb.
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5.10c | ★★ Workin' for the Weekend | 21m, 8 | Average | |||
My least favorite of the 4 right next to each other. It kind of meanders and isn't anything special. I was glad I did this one last.
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Fri 28th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Pocket Pussy | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Wow. A bit unexpected for a ten. Pretty hard for the first three bolts and way pumpy. Not the best warmup. Sadly, it took me two tries. sigh
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Fri 28th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow. what a difference from torrent. It was quite nice to climb for a while without getting pumped out of my skull. We did this whole wall and they were all fun.
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Thu 27th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★ Poopie Head | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
This one was the best 10 on this wall. A bit easier than the one to the right even though it's graded higher.
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5.10a 5.10c | Stool Sample | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Fun climb. I thought the two tens on this side should have had the grades reversed and were pretty burly for whatever that is worth.
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Wed 26th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Bare Metal Teen | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked this a few times over the week and never did come close to getting it clean. Very fun line but super pumpy. If only I had some endurance.....
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5.11d | ★★ Sex Show | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Ok climb. Only tried it once to clean it. Definitely preferred the others on this wall better.
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5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 24th Sep 2007 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A year later we're back and I got the tick. Still took a couple of tries.
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Thu 28th Jun 2007 - Coopers Rock State Forest | ||||||
Tilted Tree Alley Way | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Wave Rider | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Can't remember what day Drew and I did this but it was the only boulder problem I've done this season worth mentioning so I thought I'd add it! Fantastic line with a headsy top out.
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Sun 12th Nov 2006 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Roadside Crag | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the more fun 10's of the trip and I wasn't expecting it due to the nature of the other climbs on this wall. It if had been above 40 degrees I might have had actual fun!!
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5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow is this a beautiful line. 95 of climbing bliss. Beginning is 5.10 and the overhanging jug haul begins. On my first attempt hung a bit finding holds but cleaning it on TR got it with one hang. Very doable with any kind of endurance.
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5.9 | ★ Kampsight | 24m | Average | |||
The warmup on this freezing day. A nice change of pace at the Red. It was slabby and there wasn't much chalk on the holds!!! It was hard to believe
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Sat 11th Nov 2006 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Jungle Trundler | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The beginning is kind of tricky but the rest is very straightforward. Great for a rainy day
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5.10c | ★ Hey there, fancy pants | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The other ten we did on this section. More fun than the b and dryer too.
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5.10b | ★ Little Viper | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It rained all day on us but we found three climbs right next to each other that were all dry and pretty fun.
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Sat 11th Nov 2006 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Sunnyside | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Machete | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The last climb of our very wet day. It was fun and very closely bolted with enormous holds. A nice enjoyable ride. I need to go back to do the 11 next to it. It looked much better
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Fri 10th Nov 2006 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My other favorite on this wall. A nice bouldery start.... if only it were longer..
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5.12b | ★★ Big Money Grip | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Possibly my favorite climb of the trip. Super overhanging with big holds and athletic moves. Superb climbing. I took a nice 25 footer while making a clip Good stuff!
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5.8 | ★ Dream of a Bee | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice warmup. Nothing special
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5.11c | ★★★ Centerfire | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
All the 11's on this wall were nice. I would very much have liked to have more time to do them a couple times.
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5.9 | ★★ Wadcutter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Anothing nice warmup and the approach is just so fantastic
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5.11a | ★★★ Bandolier | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice climb. Like the book says, it is a nice introduction to the pumpy RRG climbing. Because I suck I didn't onsight it. Really no excuse for this one. It's pretty straighforward.
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5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We did all the of 11's on this wall and I think this one was my favorite. Had the most interesting moves of the lot.
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Sun 1st Oct 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took two more burns on this today. On the redpoint attempt I fell on the finger ledge after the big move. Sooooo close. No question this goes down in another try or two. What a great climb. So freaking fun!
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Sun 1st Oct 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Only got to try it once but what a treat it was! Super fun climb. Nice vertical 11 face climbing and then the business starts at the first roof. Solid V4 moves up the roof to the chains. I'll need to work to tick this thing! Can't wait to try
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Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Morgantown | ||||||
Woodland Wall Fairly Tall Wall | ||||||
5.10d | Galloping Gazels | 12m | Average | |||
Second to last climb of the day. I'm calling it a flash but I may have been on it before a long time ago. Hard for me to remember. Farily powerful move near the top.
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5.11a | Bolt 'em Up | 9m | Average | |||
Did this on top rope ages ago. Finally led it. Very short climb with a pretty decent crux.
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5.11c | ★ Blame the Dog | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Took two tries but finally ticked it. Pretty easy and fun climb. Overhanging with good holds.
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5.11b | ★ Nothing Smells Bad to a Dog | 15m | ★ Good | |||
As per my usual.... took two tries but it went down. Pretty decent climb. Nothing too terribly special.
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Mon 4th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Butta | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Took another go at this one on Monday. Man, those first few moves are rough. Worked out some better beta but had to go before could try for the redpoint. Maybe next time.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super Fun climb! Slabby with the prettiest top out I've seen at the New. The view of the river from the top is fantastic!! Nice easy climbing as well.
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5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice face climb. 1st go hung the draws and had to work out some moves. TR'd it next to get my sequence and then I ticked it on the 3rd go. Nice long fun climb. Worth doing if in the area.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Glass Onion (The Glass Onion) | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
First warmup of the day on Sunday. Good climb. Slabby with one tricky part. A nice warmup b/c it isn't too pumpy.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2006 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Lamda | ★ Good | ||||
Yikes. Very sustained 12a climbing. At least 2 cruxes and several tough clips. I ended up doing 3 laps on this thing and it never started feeling easier. Nice climb, hard as hell though.
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5.10d | ★★ Floaters | 24m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice climb. Drew hung the draws and put a cam in between the 1st and 2nd bolt and I got it first try. Very nice arete and face climbing.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Bourbon Sauce | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Super pumpy beginning but then gets easier. Took me a couple tries to unlock the roof but then it went pretty well. I think I'll definitely tick it next go.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Moon Child Posse | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Very tricky, thin moves at the top. Would be a tough on-site. Didn't get it clean my first go but worked out the crux on TR and confident it will go next time!
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5.10b | ★ Almost Heaven | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
The opening moves are quite tricky and thin for a 10b. Kathy hung the draws for me on this one!!! If you need a warm-up it's there but otherwise I wouldn't bother. We did it as a warm down. Very nice view of the river from the top.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it on my first go hanging the draws!! Woo hoo. I had done it once before but it felt real good this time. Very nice line, very much my style.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2006 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Cross-Eyed and Blind | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super Fun climb! The first bolt is about 25 feet up but the climbing is relatively easy to get there. The guidebook says this is 5.11a if you are short.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2006 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Second Buttress | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Pistol Whip | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got it on my second try. The middle section is a bit tricky and the finish is out a very pumpy roof with nice big holds.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Fingers In Da Dyke | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fun climb. Mostly vertical and technical climbing. Took me 3 goes b/c on the second I tried to go a bit too quickly.... very worth doing.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Head Wall | ||||||
5.11d 5.11c | ★ Put Up or Shut Up | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
Ok climb. Doesn't see much action based on the large tree growing on the roof ledge!!! Super pumpy roof and the top was filthy dirty. I believe the guide I had put this at 11.c
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Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Super Mario Boulder | ||||||
5.5 | Guides Route, Left | 12m | Average | |||
Woo Hoo!!! My first trad lead ever! Couldn't have picked an easier climb. My second gave me a good grade on my placements though and that was the whole point.
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5.10c | ★ Sixteenth Rung | ★ Good | ||||
Kind of fun. Very pumpy at the top and again kind of surprising for a 10. If I weren't stupid it would have gone clean and I didn't feel like doing it again since it was 'supposed' to be a warmup
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5.12b | ★★ European Vacation | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good lord is this thing hard. Fun as hell but quite a wake up as to what hard, powerful 5.12 is.
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5.10d | Pinckney Route | Don't Bother | ||||
I'm embarassed to say not only did I TR this but I didn't get it clean!! The roof is quite surprising for a 10.
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5.11b | Unnamed BM#2 | Average | ||||
Nothing special. If you do it traverse left at the 1st bolt. Going straight up and left is VERY hard and not 11b.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2006 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Second Buttress | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Madmen Rule the World | Average | ||||
Okay climb. Not nearly as fun as the two 10d's on the 3rd buttress. A little goofy in the middle.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2006 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Third Buttress | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Tsunami Bob | ★ Good | ||||
Super fun 5.10 warmup. One of the best I've done and no one is ever there to hog the moderate route all day!!
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5.11c | ★★ Meathead | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb. Bouldery start and then 60ft of fun 5.10 climbing and the crux is the last 6ft... Very pumpy roof finish. Tried it thrice and never made it clean....
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5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Mr Cute (Unnamed) | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another super fun 5.10. Nice climbing the whole way
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Sun 28th May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fly Girls | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 more tries on this thing with no redpoint. The first two bolts are tough and reachy for me but I have my sequence now. It's going down soon!
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5.11c | ★ Doer, Not A Critic | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I blew the onsight at the last move!! It was a big move but very doable and not the crux. Big mistake..... oh well. Fun route
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Sat 27th May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Ok route. Got a little more pumped than I had hoped at the top. Worth doing, especially as a warmup for Mensa or the other harder lines.
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5.11c | ★★ Butta | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
VERY difficult, bouldery opening moves. In my humble opinion the move felt harder than 11 but what do I know. The line is beautiful and climbs fairly well too.
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5.12a | ★★ M.E.N.S.A. | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This thing worked me and I ended up doing the easy left variation. Be aware in the afternoon it gets direct sun.... ugh
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5.9 | ★ You Want It, You Got It | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves on big holds. Very mellow line that is a great warmup. Takes a while to dry....
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5.7 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain | 20m | Average | |||
I was seconding to try and learn gear placments so I could lead it. Big group showed up and ruined that plan.
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Sun 7th May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Thieves Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Two Tone Arrete | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally got back on this. Very fun and committing moves for a 10. Good stuff all around.
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5.12a | ★ Tongue-In-Groove | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Wow. This thing was not what I expected. There was one all points off dyno and several other very tricky moves that make you think. Take some slings for the anchors b/c the biners twist the rope to hell.
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Sat 6th May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took me two more tries but I got the redpoint hanging the draws! Fun climb.
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Sun 30th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I just barely missed the onsight on this. I grabbed the wrong crimp and blew it. Very fun climb though. Definitely worth doing.
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5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another blown onsite, I blew it by screwing up the roof at the 6th bolt. Super fun climb though, I can't believe no one ever does this one!
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Sun 30th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | ||||||
5.10a | Squirrely Adventure | 23m | Don't Bother | |||
Only bother if it is the only warmup left. The climbing is fun but the rock quality is not. Several large, scary, loose flakes.
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Sat 29th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Head Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ So Freakin' Fun | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun climb. Very tricky to onsight, especially if you have no jamming/offwidth skills! Very cool climb
|
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Sat 29th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Headless Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Pyro Vixen | 17m | Average | |||
I still don't understand why this thing gets 4 stars in the book. Ichabod crane is right next to it and 10x better.
|
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Sun 16th Apr 2006 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Warm Up Wall, Warm Up Boulder, And Outhouse Rock Warm Up Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Namedropper | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Super fun climb
|
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Sat 15th Apr 2006 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur Wally World Gunks Boulder | ||||||
V1 V2 | ★★ The Vulgarian | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super fun with nice soft holds
|
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V1 V2 | ★★ The Vulgarian | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super fun with nice soft holds
|
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Fri 14th Apr 2006 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Mountain Warm Up Roof Area Warm Up Roof | ||||||
V2 | ★★ The Guillotine | 5m | ★ Good | |||
That hold is a bit scary....
|
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Fri 14th Apr 2006 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Mountain North Central Dragon's Den Blender Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Brutus | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it 2nd go. Easiest V5 in the park
|
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Sun 2nd Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed the onsight b/c I'm a moron. Good climb
|
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5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not sure what to call this tick. Stick clipped 1st bolt and fell there once
|
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Sun 2nd Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tongulation | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty heady lead. I did the easier, right moving variation
|
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Sat 1st Apr 2006 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Barfing Butterfiles | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hung the draws and then got it 2nd go
|
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Sat 1st Apr 2006 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area D.C. Memorial Boulder | ||||||
5.11b | ★ The Year of the Psycho Bitch (Process of Elimination) | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun climb. Steep and powerful with big holds
|
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Sat 1st Apr 2006 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby has a Bolt Gun | 24m, 8 | Average | |||
5.11b | ★★ Barfing Butterfiles | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 1st Apr 2006 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area D.C. Memorial Boulder | ||||||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Delayed Stress Syndrome (The Route of All Evil) | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★ The Year of the Psycho Bitch (Process of Elimination) | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good |