Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Guerrera Cosmica — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 32m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
9 days. 20+ attempts. 11- climbing to a really bad and sharp kneebar rest, to a V6/7 crux involving aa really big move to a left hand pinch on steep terrain. After an OK kneebar rest, long, steep 12- climbing to the chains, split by good kneebar rests. I managed to do all the moves during the first session, including onsighting the whole upper part. The rest of the time was spent trying the bottom part. When I did it, on the last possible attempt of the last possible day, it was the first time I stuck the crux move from the bottom. I was so excited about it that I could hardly control my breathing, let alone remember my top sequences. I commited and trusted my movement to motor memory, and focused on breathing and being patient on the rests, even though my calves and thighs were exploding in pain, pump, and exhaustion. It felt like my legs would give in before my hands and forearms. I powered through sections where I forgot how to do, and I was excited and anxious at the same time. Getting to that triangle jug before clipping the chains was great. It felt like a major milestone in my climbing- something I've wanted for so long. It is also the result of so many hours full of joy, psyche, and effort climbing alone, with friends, through frustration, happiness, but also grief and sadness. I am so thankful for life, for my friends and loved ones who accompanied me along the way, for Chrissy, with all her patient and encouraging belays, training, support, psyche (she initiated the send train by sending Amate earlier) and much more, and of course, to climbing. On to the next one!!
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Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ City Of The Dead — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First 5.12 of the year! Been focusing more on projecting harder things like Guerrera Cosmica at El Chonta, or Lucid Dreaming in Boulder Canyon. Pretty great climb. Techy but enjoyable, well-bolted slab into an absolute rest before a steep hand crack, followed by a powerful jug (or good hold) haul. Chrissy made the hands crack look easy, but when I tried it the first shot, thinking I would onsight this, it may as well have been V10- didn't even know where to begin, and everything felt impossible. I'm sure it would be easier if I had any crack climbing skills at all, but as it happens, I bouldered it out using the crimps inside the crack, which feels like V5ish. Pulled it off second try on this beautiful winter sunny day that just so happens was Chrissy's birthday!
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Reina del Sur — 8 attempts - with Chrissy, Esau | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
7 shots in total. Fun first session with Esau where I could do all the moves. Did 3 goes in that session, where I managed to two-hang the route. Felt far at the time. Fortunately, I videoed someone with actual good beta on the climb, which, when I went with Chrissy yesterday, I put to good use after my first attempt of the day, and on my second and third go, I one hung the route. Today, I almost sent on my first try of the day had I not tried to unnecessarily readjust. Then, after a tip from Chrissy regarding how to use a pocket, and Kashmir regarding a shoulder rest, I sent and it was glorious. Powerful, relentless, yet techy and precise. I love it, and it's I think my 60th 5.12 of this year, and I have completed my 13a pyramid! Bring on 2024!!
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Sand Gulch Freeform Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Barney - with Chrissy | 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warm up on a cold crack.
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5.12a | ★★★ Freeform — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Placed draws coming down from the climb next door. Beautiful route with sculpted edges, deep pockets, and cool jugs. Slightly overhanging after a crimpy reachy crux at the bottom. Second half is a pocket haul to gain good edges over a rooflet, the mantle of which marks the end of the climb. Cold late October day with wind made me wear a neck liner, beanie and fleece on the send. Bad news: moving out of a pocket my left middle finger got stuck and it creaked in a not awesome way, overextending at the joints. Though I fought it and sent after the fact, it does seem injured. How much it will affect my Leonido trip we will see.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Cactus Cliff Right Side | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Cro magnum — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful rock and setting. Easy climbing on shaded, cold corner to a sequency boulder problem involving compression between a shallow left pocket and a right hand sidepull sloper (wide span) followed by a big, delicate move to a good edge. Something of a one move wonder, but somewhat tricky to figure out. Thanks to Chrissy, because I figured out one part, and she figured out the othe! Great end to a weekend out at Shelf. It's already so cold out!
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
The Bank 2150 Wall | ||||||
5.11c ~5.11b | ★★★ Lime Street - with Chrissy | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great techy warmup, pumpy at the top, clipped the chains just in time!! Love Shelf and its peacefulness...
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
The Bank North Bank Cliffs | ||||||
5.12a/b ~5.12b | ★★★ Heavy Weather — 3 attempts - with Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent and powerful and sequency pocket pulling on great, clean, vertical rock. Thank you Chrissy, for having me re-evaluate my beta and making it so much easier on my 3rd go! Hardest I've sent in Shelf so far. Felt a lot more like 12b to me, and Mountain Project says 12a/b which would make more sense to me.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Colliding — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice climb where you go from kneebar to kneebar like a bee going from flower to flower. Some physical big moves involving not-that-great pinches, and placing the kneebars can be tiring. Took me a minute to figure out (thank you Chrissy), but got it second go! First 12 send post-Kalymnos Also, I believe this is a special climb. According to my records on theCrag, I have done as many 5.12s in 2023 than I have in all other years combined- #41.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ The Road — 3 attempts - with Chrissy, Jonathan | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What an unforgettable ascent. All-time moment FOR SURE. As Chrissy and Jonathan worked Over the Top (which both of them seeeent!!), I, shoulder recently semi-tweaked, wasn't sure what I was gonna do. I was so close to just belaying and taking it easy, as I was leaving for Kalymnos that very afternoon. I warmed up just in case. My shoulder was feeling OK, so I decided to give this one a good flash try after being sprayed by Chrissy. Got a good first burn in, but it started raining. I got to the top and fully expected to clean the route. My friends told me to leave it up, as I wondered how it would be possible to get up it again. I am so glad they had this kind of patience and psyche to climb. After the rain passed and the rock (sort of) dried, I gave it a determined second go. After the crux move at the lip of the slopers, I took a HUGE whipper which was pretty fun and funny. I said "no way" and wanted to try again immediately. I rested a couple minutes, and went up again. What followed was a screamfest assembled of extremely unlikely sticks to sub-optimal slopers for the entire climb, even to the clipping of the chains. I have never tried so hard on a climb, ever. I was completely overjoyed with such an unlikely send, but mainly because I didn't know I could dig that deep. I felt the consequences after for sure, which was a second confirmation that I did indeed access a level of effort previously unknown to me. What a prelude to Kalymnos!!
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Rehab - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | |||||
I mean, I OS'd this years ago, but logging it now. It's an exceedingly chill climb. First climb with Pe and Marcelo in like 9 years! Soooooo good to see these guys after 4 years!!
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5.11d | ★★ Suck It and See — 2 attempts - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty much did the OS, but after doing all the hard moves, failed to see an obvious hold and fell Got it easily second go, even though I broke a pretty fat foothold, and also backtracked from a missed deadpoint!
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Tarot Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Tower - with Chrissy | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Flowy warmup up a meandery slab, to a rooflet, to a stem, etc. A tour of the basics of Boulder Canyon, basically.
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5.12c | ★★★ Fapanese Direct — 5 attempts - with Chrissy | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First 12c outside of El Chonta this year! Very much up my alley. Easy climbing to slopers and a powerful-to-place kneebar on a roof, followed by intertwined crimp traversing and powerful moves on the lip of the roof. Pumpy climbing follows. Thank you Chrissy for the belay and video!!!
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lucky Strikes - with Flo | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best flash of the year, and best in a long time! Flo went first and figured out the moves and set the draws. His beta fit my style perfectly. Bouldery first section followed by 5.11 pumpy climbing with thinnish feet. Excellent feeling, right when the sun was beginning to peek at the wall! Stoked! Flo got it straight after
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5.10a | ★★★ Mr. Sandman - with Flo | 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great way to start the day (7 AM session)! Flo set the draws on this long, varied, meandery expedition, and I did it next for warm up. Nice to be in a place in Boulder Canyon without view of the highway, and instead the sound and view of forests, mountains, and waterfalls.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Over The Top — 3 attempts - with Chrissie, Lucy | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Powerful, burly climb. Almost landed the OS! The second go I wanted to use a simpler beta, but ended up not working. Got it on my third go. Used the ol' knee-to-arm bar pioneered all those years ago in 3 men and a ladder!
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5.11d | ★★★ Glitter And Doom - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really happy about this OS! Found a key kneebar (more like kneescum) right at the crux, and stemmed my way out. A bit dirty, but a great climb nonetheless!
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5.11a/b | ★★★ Systemic Risk - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, and first I've done in the area! Great company too. The area has Coolum-like features, and climbs like it, only less steep. Kneebars are abundant.
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park Surprising Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Mercy Drilling - with Datus | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
OMG!! Hardest flash all year!! I had seen Datus' beta, which definitely helped. Unique climb, as it could be a trad climb in that there is jamming in hands, fingers, and feet, with a powerful crux. I screamed through it all, and got through all of it! Incredible feeling. Definitely improved my day, as I had been distracted with other concerning things.
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5.12a/b | ★★★ Curve of Binding Energy — 2 attempts - with Datus | 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great powerful boulder problem on good holds at the bottom followed by chill climbing the rest of the way. Glad I ditched Shakedown Street (12c that was shredding my fingers and just wasn't a ton of fun) for this one!
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Bowling Alley | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ A Tall Cool One — 2 attempts - with Mellow Patrick | 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried this Sunday last week with Matt. It had started raining but went for the onsight attempt anyway. Passed the crux and my foot slipped on easy terrain! Got it second go, in my first try today
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5.10b | ★★★ Splitting Hares - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warming up. Interesting moves on curtain-like terrain. Flowy in a way.
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5.11b/c | ★★ Shady Deal - with Mellow Patrick | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks insecure when belaying, but feels OK when climbing because it is exceedingly well bolted. Tricky crux for sure- uncomfortable moves to not-great holds at the end! Stemmy and precise.
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5.11b | ★★ Father Figure - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin feet at times, cool, long moves. If only it were longer!
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5.10d | ★★ Happy Ending - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool route! Did it as the last climb of the day at dusk. Jug hauling pretty much all the way!
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Little Eiger | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Eiger Direct - with Patrick, Ken, Kyra, Alex | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty nice route! The rain erased all chalk everywhere except underneath the rooflet, which turned out not to be a crux at all. Pretty crimpy after the rooflet, and this was compounded by me looking everywhere for holds. Felt good to get a "pure onsight" on such a classic with friends I hadn't hung out with in a minute!
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Pretty in Pinkler — 4 attempts - with Flo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard 11d! Better route than the utter lack of chalk suggests. Really it's a one boulder problem wonder. Powerful moves to not-that-great holds on a 5-8 move sequence. It comes at the beginning and the rest is straightforward. The boulder problem is V4/5 though, so still a stiff route! Went with Flo a couple days earlier (he's done good progress on Patience Face) and I actually managed to do an easier send of PF even setting draws!
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Fri 28th Jul 2023 - South Platte | ||||||
Staunton State Park Staunton Rocks The Dungeon | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Light My Fire - with Alex from Whatsapp Climbing Group | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Botched the OS because I went for the wrong hold. Otherwise could have happened. It will go next time. Long and pumpy, with great moves throughout. Feels like more than 24m?
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5.12a | ★★★ Waiting For The Sun — 2 attempts - with Alex from Whatsapp Climbing Group | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm glad I decided to go out. I needed it. Beautiful day, and a bit of a one move wonder (or 3ish) on kneebars. The rest is 5.10+ climbing. Nice to come back to this place.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Der Zerkle The Court | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Touch Monkey - with Matt | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it partially in the sun. Great steep, sometimes insecure climbing on mostly good holds. Short and intense. Great fun!
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Shaft — 5 attempts - with Datus, Matt | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried this for the first time yesterday (7/21/2023) with Datus, and got 3 shots at it. Great route- shares the start with Patience Face, but then goes directly to the namesake Shaft. The rock was damp and the shared first part felt much harder than the session where I sent Patience Face. Came pretty close on the third attempt even though tired! The next day I came back with Matt and sent it second go! Great route- hard for 12b for sure. This is 5.12 #26 of the year! Power endurancy, bouldery, compressy, slopey, and airy! Again, felt really hard for the grade even though I used kneebars!
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Segundo Dinamo El perro muerto | ||||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Solovino - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 11m | Average | |||
Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Segundo Dinamo Paroxismo | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Depredacion — 2 attempts - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fell figuring out the first bit... Average route, first on the Segundo Dinamo. I also tried another route in this sector called Guerra Intensa 5.12b, which I didn't send due to it falling apart on the second half- must've pulled out several handholds and multiple footholds- not great...
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Wall of the Nineties | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Refer Madness - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice crimpy sequency climb with some cool deadpoints on jugs! Felt short after having done Patience Face and Wet Dream
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5.12a | ★★★ Wet Dream - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 31m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I was waiting for Alex at the base of this (stick clipped, harness on already, basically Jonesin') and got to do a few breathing exercises I learned from Isabel the day before, and that's just what the doctor ordered! Took my time during the stem rest and the crux felt a lot easier this time. Stoked to have sent 3 12a's in a week!
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5.11c | ★★★ Curvaceous - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 31m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent flowy climbing on great holds with a steep roof on jugs to boot! End of day climb on a perfect July morning with Alex and Nicole!
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Patience Face — 2 attempts - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What. A. Line. Best I've sent in CO. It's one of those lines that reminds you just how good climbing can be. I made up my mind that I would just have fun and put aside performance. Turns out I was so close to onsighting this beautiful, many-tones-of-ocre, barndoory, meandery climb! I fell at the mid-crux, got immediately back on and did the rest without falling. On the second go, I was more cautious and static which made me get more tired, but managed to keep it together for the send! I put kneepads on the second time seeing that I had found many kneebars on the first try, but I didn't end up relying on them. SO stoked to have gotten this. Perfect day with perfect views on perfect stone. I missed sandstone!
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Spinal Tap — 2 attempts - with Edel | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thought I would onsight, but it's a tough 11d! Did back-to-back attempts and was too tired on the second try. I kept forgetting my sequence and not finding the right holds. Not over after the crux, as you have to trust these non-holds to top out! Crimpy, tensiony and reachy.
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Nappy Dugout | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Squawk Box - with Alex from WhatsApp | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even the warm ups feel pumpy at Rifle Fun but unexpectedly hard!
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5.12a | ★★ Fossil Family — 2 attempts - with Alex from WhatsApp | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super hard 12a. Probably not 12a V4ish boulder problem off the bat, followed by pumpy steep climbing, finishing with another V4ish boulder problem. No real rests I could find. Had little time to rest, so will have to come back for this unique, fun climb!
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Tue 4th Jul 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Wall of the Nineties | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Wet Dream — 4 attempts - with Matt, Ben Matt's Friend, Edel | 31m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent varied climbing! Has it all- steep terrain on jugs, balancy vertical, delicate slab, and of course, the crimper boulder problem. Had back-to-back attempts, and didn't feel good enough on the second. Then I came back on 7/8/2023 with Edel, and I messed up my sequence on the first try, then got hailed and rained on the second try (even though the holds were wet, I made it to the first move of the top crux before slipping from water!). Super fun climb, will come back for it!
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Tue 4th Jul 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Crime and Punishment — 3 attempts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great pumpy climbing to a stemming rest, followed by a sequence of powerful moves on slopers. The send was super unlikely, as I felt tired and was constantly about to fall on the pre-roof, pre-rest section. Made sure I rested well, but on the final crux move, I could tell I was going to fall. Miraculously, I managed to find a left kneebar that saved the day! Stoked to send 12s in Rifle again
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5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent (required) movement! Pumpy as per Rifle usual, but flowy and fun. Nice to have climbed on permadraws all day hehe
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5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Psyched to have OS'd it!! Alex had some trouble with this one being new to Rifle style. Super pumpy and on you the whole time- no rests until the chains!
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ Nevermore - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had a session this past Monday as well as past Friday on this beast. I did all the moves within one session! Very psyched to be projecting this. Climbs up Tell Tale Heart, including its crux, to break out roght to a V6/7 sloper boulder problem. The slopers are baaaaad. Definitely a low percentage boulder problem for me, so I need to build endurance to get there really fresh!
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5.12a | ★★★ Empire Of The Fenceless — 2 attempts - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Excellent climb! Was inspired by Datus's well-executed send! I had a session where I placed draws, tried Nevermore twice, then warmed down on this this past Monday. Then today I placed draws on it, then tried Nevermore one time, then sent! Balancy and insecure climbing followed by pumpy and balancy moves. What follows is a strenuous reach/throw to an OK crimp. Did the first part quickly and went dynamically for the cruz crimp! Very psyched to get this one. I feel it's one of the more solid 12a's I've done this year (I think this is #22?)
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Elanor - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got on this after sending Tell-Tale Heart! It looked onsighteable, so why not try it out? Psyched about the OS. Crimpy layback moves on smeary feet followed by big moves on big holds. Redpoint crux is a big move to an OK 2-pad hold that guards the anchor. Stoked! Florian got TTH right after for the send train!
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5.12b | ★★★ Tell-Tale Heart — 5 attempts - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12 #21 in 2023! Two sessions: one on 6/8/23 and another today. Started climbing with Florian- great dude to climb with Sent it after placing draws on it and getting flash pumped and falling at the crux. Because these morning sessions are pre-work sessions, there is no such thing as properly resting before burns. Got on it the second time today expecting not to send. I found a sneaky lean-forward rest at the right hand gaston on the crux, and got a lot back- enough to clear the remainder of the crux moves! Don't let your guard down after the rest post-crux- make sure you rest, as you can still fall on the last bit! I know I almost did. Balancy moves at the start lead to a leanback rest, and crux is flexy, big tensiony, shouldery moves on overhanging good edges and slopers. Redpoint crux is going for the last left hand sloper off of another sloper from a splits stance. Solid and classic!
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5.10d | ★ Warm Up - with Florian | ★★ Very Good | ||||
OS'd this years ago (also on 6/8/23), so logging it now as an OS. We used it, as the name suggests, as a warm-up for Tell Tale Heart. 7 AM climbing in rainy afternoons/evenings make for really nice conditions! Watch the crack/transition between the wall on the left and the dihedral- some rope can get stuck there when giving slack for the anchor, and you need to take harder on the anchor than you would think! Techy dihedral with no real hard moves.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Dog House | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Mighty Dog — 2 attempts - with Ben, Cheyloh, Kerri, Michael | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What. A. Classic. Best climb I've attempted in CO so far! Permadraw-ed too. Two working attempts. Starts of with an easy slab, followed by the business: steep big, original moves on good holds take you to the roof, which consists in a V5 crimpy boulder problem followed by a V3 mantle. Can't wait to get back on!
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Highwire crag | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ People's Choice - with Ben | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great dihedral climbing with the crux pitch being the last one and the crux of that being a mantle on no holds! Ben solo'd the second pitch cuz he went off route. Kinda stressful for me, but hey, climbing is all about adventure??
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist - with Amber, Justin, Alli | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quick dusk climb after photo sesh with Justin's camera! Seems much easier than last time I was here, but still not easy! I'll probably get it next time
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Sherwood Forest | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Prince of Thieves — 2 attempts - with Ben | 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quickest 12b in a while! Rode the send train kicked off by Ben after he did his best OS ever! This is #20! Also in a drizzle, just like #19! A couple of boulder problems separated by 5.10 climbing.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Three Walls | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Free Fall - with Matt, Ella, Flo, Ken | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is #19. Eveloped in the mist of the Rocky Mountains, I stood on the verge of clipping the anchoors, and thus having climbed more 5.12s than I ever had in a single year, now surpassing my previous best year, which was 2013. Light rain washed away all the self-chasing, all of the nostalgia for better times, and all of my previous life, given my personal circumstances. I now walk uncharted territory, unafraid and excited about the challenges that lay ahead. Did it on my first go of the day whilst placing draws! It felt sooooo much easier than when I was close to sending it a couple of years back. Stuck everything perfectly, and had to do no big effort at the crux. Easy 12a for sure, but 12a nontheless. Clutch moment to get it, as the harder rain began soon afterwards!
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Primer Dinamo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fuera de control — 2 attempts - with Esau, My parents | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent first exposure to Los Dinamos!! I really don't know why I hesitated so much to come to this area in the past. Within Mexico City, and this particular crag is 5 mins away from the parking! Three-crux route (finger lock mantle, crimps to deadpoint, and some more crimps to deadpoints), where I fell in the second crux on the OS. Got it second go in front of my parents who came to visit! I got lost at the end and only just managed to clip the anchors!! The. Streak. Continues.
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5.11a | ★★ Aves de rapiña - with Esau | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Non-trivial movement near the start, as the left hand is on sidepulls and your right is pulling the wrong way on a crack. Incites pensiveness. Then the second half are straightforward moves on really good holds through the overhang. Really fun!
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5.11a | ★★ A las estrellas — 2 attempts - with Esau | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell on the first boulder problem because I wasn't pre-clipped to the first bolt and I was required to do a somewhat insecure deadpoint. Esau did a great job spotting me! Got it immediately afterwards. Great first steep boulder problem into an easy slab, followed by another rooflet (much easier than the start), ending with long moves on good edges.
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5.9 | ★ Pancho en vacaciones - with Esau | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough for 5.9! Easiest if done without resting at all, as there is no stance that won't eventually tire you. Interesting movement through good holds and a sloping crack.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Huevo Ay Nanita | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Chaneque — 2 attempts - with Tirso, Arely, Alexis | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2nd go! Lucky to have found these super dope people that could belay me seeing that Tirso and Arely had literally just learned to belay a few minutes earlier lol. Bouldery start to a rest, and then another crimpy/lockoffy/deadpointy boulder problem around the middle, finishing in pumpy moves on good holds. The streak continues!! Stoked!!
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Pilar | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Niño Chillón - with Esau | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Set this for my cousin. Nice flowy climbing on good holds!
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Jilotepec | ||||||
Sal de mí | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Estrella de Pétalos - with Esau | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tensiony movement on good crimps and edges. Pumpy but beautiful and fun. Going past the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset with light drops of rain falling on us was amazing! Satisfied with the OS.
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5.12a | ★★ El Nicho — 2 attempts - with Esau | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy climbing to a boulder problem that features sloping holds on steep terrain where body tension is necessary. Once the crux begins, there are no real rests until you clip the chains! Excellent route. The one-5.12-a-week streak is still alive!!
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5.7 | ★ Unknown - with Esau | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty straightforward, well-protected climb on positive terrain and good holds. Good for a beginning leader!
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Tue 21st Mar 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ La Onza — 2 attempts - with Alex, Hanson | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent day of climbing. Got this second go after one beta burn to figure out the crux big move. Same day I Alzheimer OS'd Mala Fama, and backjumped both climbs! Big day, and the streak of climbing at least one 5.12 a week for several weeks now is still alive! Great day to have the cave to ourselves
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Mon 20th Mar 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ La Bocina — 2 attempts - with Alex, Hanson | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got spit off the top again on my first go, but managed to get to the top crux with enough energy to clip the chains despite messing up down low! Super stoked! Great to be climbing in this beautiful place all to ourselves
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ La Bocina — 3 attempts - with Pablo, David, Daniel | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent route with good new friends from Cuernavaca! After a beta burn where Pablo and David thankfully sprayed it all to me, I got spit off the top twice! Decided to change my beta for the end. Next time!
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Dia De Los Muertos — 2 attempts - with Ben, Patrick, Alex, Kyra, Jared, Jonathan, Maja, Ken | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Technical 5.10 climbing at the bottom leads to a technical sequence of long moves that go from crimp to crimp. Very satisfying. Ends with pumpy but straightforward crimp-pulling. 6th straight week sending at least one 5.12! Very thankful for a beautiful, fun day out before I go on a trip!
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5.10a | ★★★ Six Feet Under - with Ben, Patrick, Alex, Kyra, Jared, Jonathan, Maja, Ken | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice, gym bolted warm-up. Lots of "fake news", i.e. non-holds with chalk in them.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Dog House | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Fiddler on the Woof — 3 attempts - with Rob, Sarah, John, Matt | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had nobody to climb with, and the forecast for next week was grim, and I was leaving for 2 months after that! So I drove up by myself, not being sure how the weather was going to be, or if I would have people to climb with. Found a very friendly crew and gave this thing a shot! 3 goes, super fun route with big moves to big holds
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Fort Collins | ||||||
Lyons Button Rock Dam Area River Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Dihedral - with Edel, Ben, Patrick | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice stemming climb, but super run out!
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5.10d | ★★ Introducing Meteor Dad - with Edel, Ben, Patrick | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super nice slab with unique movement, including high heel cranking and triceps mantling on slopey shelves. Kinda run out, but definitely a worthy slab!
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Fort Collins | ||||||
Lyons Button Rock Dam Area River Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Shades of Murky Depths - with Ben, Amber | ★ Good | ||||
Thought I was on the 5.8 warmup. Told Ben this seemed like a stiff 5.8. Turns out I was right!
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5.12a | ★★★ Red Neck Hero — 2 attempts - with Ben, Amber | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What. A. Route. Best 12a I've done in a looong time, and certainly the best I've gotten on in Colorado. Morning was a bit too chilly and got flash pumped on this. Sun came up, warmed the holds, and life was better! 2nd shot send. Pumpy jug haul on steep terrain with permadraws. Loved this wall!
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Cactus Cliff Right Side | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ High Healed Titty Twister - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent sport crack climbing! Very flowy. Belayed by Patrick.
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5.9 | ★ Shelf Pride - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | ★ Good | |||
First climb of the day whilst it was still windy and chilly. Very runout, wakes you up! Belayed by Jakob, who suggested the route.
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5.10b | ★★ Cheeseburger In Paradise - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this one after Jakob, and it's a great bolted crack. Sometimes exposed, but cool
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5.12a | ★★ Almost French - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First 12a onight in years, and first 12a at Shelf! Belayed by Jakob, and he also recommended the route. Very psyched to have done this. Small holds, big moves, sequency a la Shelf!
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5.12b | ★★★ Legend On The Fall - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thin, pumpy, and powerful route! The type of vertical climb which has you slapping your feet as you inch up the wall to reach the next gnarly hold. Gave it a good onsight try, listened to someone who had tried it earlier after I fell, but it turned out that my original beta was correct. Belayed by Jakob, and was the last climb of the trip! Excellent winter camping trip with new friends
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
The Bank Piggy Bank | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The sweepings - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got on this after I saw Jared insert himself into the offwidth. He belayed me as I made my way up with kneebars and jams!
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5.11c | ★ Pink torpedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | ||||
Jakob asked me to put this up all the way to the second anchors. Belayed by him, I had the chance to assess the top crux from the ledge where the first anchors are. Sequency combination of underclings get you past the rooflet crux, quickly followed by a high step crux on a pocket to a textured flat ledge. Great to onsight this!
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5.11a | ★★ Flesh tuxedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm-up thinking it was 10a. Belayed by Gemma. Hung tight on the crux where you need to lock off as you reach to edges and pockets whilst you can't see your feet. Fist climb of the trip!
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5.11b | ★★ Disciples of hell - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great end of day climb! Overhanging and exposed- very scenic! Belayed by Jakob.
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5.11c | ★★ Generation x - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | ||||
Vertical, balancy, and sequency edge climbing with good stances between cruxes. Belayed by Jared, whilst talking with a 55 year old telling us about his skiing days in Bosnia. Great feeling to onsight this!
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Fri 10th Feb 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Hellbender — 2 attempts - with Patrick, Ken | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Went up once just before the send attempt. Full sun made those slopers and slimpers feel hard!! Rehearsed it a bit, found great foot beta for the sloper throw such that I could reliably stay under it, and then tried again. I was in full battle mode to get to through all of it. It did not feel over until I topped out the victory ledge. Very, very stoked! Best single day outdoor climbing performance in a while!
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5.12a/b | ★★★ Tomb Raider - with Patrick, Ken | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm-up/send attempt went really well! Listened to my body, so I changed my layback beta slightly, but the business end was just as expected. Felt great to open up a "playing hooky" climbing day sending this!!
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5.8 | ★★ Cruisin' Caskets - with Patrick, Ken | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good warm-down on a juggy meander to wrap up a pretty darn good day.
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Tomb Raider - with Patrick, Amber, Alex | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried hard on my first attempt at this overhanging beauty, and got so close to grabbing the final jug! It is a little hard to find. Easy climbing leads to a short 3-bolt overhang that has you on steep underclings, body-tensing footwork, and a big move to the jug off of which one clips the anchors. Next time I'll get this!
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Dog House | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Big Dog — 2 attempts - with Matt | 21m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First Colorado 12b!! Super psyched. I did not suspect I would send this after my working attempt, at which point it felt like it was going to be a multi-day project. Beta was very well executed, and this thing does not let up until the anchors
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5.11b | ★★ Hot Dog - with Matt | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thin delicate slab to start with followed by a very cool overhang traverse on nicely textured granite. Very pumpy!
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5.10a | ★★ Dog Breath - with Matt | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second warm up of the day. Very cool overhanging sections with great holds!
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5.9 | ★★ Black Dog - with Matt | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. Very nice rock in this crag- almost RMNP bouldering rock!
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5.11b | ★★★ Li'l Dog - with Matt | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent meandery route that ends with a steep section with cool holds
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Cactus Cliff Left Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Bur Har-Bur - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jared and I "free spirited" this one, i.e. got on it without checking the guidebook. Short and flowy. Looks like I'd done it before at one point.
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5.12a Hard | ★★ Blade Runner - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin, balancy, commiting, and crimpy. Pretty much Shelf style. Two cruxes separated by a ledge rest. Second crux is fingery, sequency and precise. Could probably get this in a few more attempts.
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5.8 | Kalahari Sidewinder - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I think I did this one before. Warm up and setting up TR for peeps. Cracky.
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5.10d | ★ Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got Any Hangers? - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice short, powerful climb on pockets and good edges. End of day cleaning.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | Bone Daddy - with Matt | 18m | ||||
10a in the guidebook. Very exposed but cool climbing.
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5.12a/b | ★★ Hellbender — 3 attempts - with Matt | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got the moves rather quickly. Long moves to slopers followed by a crimpy tension section that I did pumped. Working session. Could go in 1-2 more sessions.
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5.11a | ★★ Ernest Stemmingway - with Matt | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did it after Matt. Long route that is not pumpy and only has a couple of techy but high quality hard sections.
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