Ascents in North America by Jim Olsen having trad-cpr or ascent-date

My first really tough route of the day. The 5.10 is only for a move or two.

climbed it with screwed up ankle, so Fritz gave me a little tension over crux. Taking a week off to heal.

Like almost everyone else I did this as a 5.8 A0 climb. This was the neatest climb I did in my life! Two days later I would have gleefully done it again.

Fritz found this route, but I'm sure someone has climbed it before us. The 5.10 part is only about 2 moves at the bottom. the rest is easier.

Led most of it, but traded off and Fritz led the crux, so he gets lead credit. Route starts to the left of Chickenshit at a tree following cracks and depressions under a bulge at one's left and arcing across the top of a friction face to end at the top of Chickenshit. No record of this route, but someone probably did it as it is in an area with some 5.10's and 5.11's.

Climb really like Knight Moves; up over, up back and over up. Need another climb on this crag for a checkmate. Nice well protected route using up to number 2 Camalots.

Oops! Good finger hold on crux careened off into space. I just turned a 5.9 climb into a 5.9+. But, I hand traversed left 5 or 6 feet, went up and back on route. It's fun doing it that way.

5.9 at crux only.

Took a bit to get over the crux.

I really had to work on this one. Got partway up the flare and moved right with some creative moves, then back into the route.

A real mental workout.

Got up it twice. Yay.

Toughest crack climb I've done to date.

It's a good route with lots of sustained 5.8 climbing, but I probably wouldn't want to lead it through the crux.

The bottom was the hardest.

FFA.

Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.

Kind of a grunt for a short climb. Did twice.

Don't know if it's been climbed before; probably has. About 20+ feet left of West Face direct. Crack curves to the right and edges are roundded.

Fritz and I had to rap down and climb out to do this one. A little unnerving considering it had some loose, formed a steep gully and protecting yourself on belay slightly iffy.

We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.

FFA. Takes off of Miss Piggy. Would be better (good) if someone would ascend it with a wire brush (for the lichens) and small plant trimmers.

Only about 10' of the climb is 5.8. Climbed with Fritz.

They must call it Turkey Sandwich cause If you get jammed in the offwidth you're the turkey in the sandwich. I mostly avoided this.

It's been awhile since I did an offwidth.

Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.

Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).

Listed in Hill's Guide to the Sandias as 5.6, actually 5.8. Big crack swallows up #3.5 Camalots. We had to reuse the sameone three times on the climb. Took a tumble near the top, made it on next try. Real pumpy. We had to climb, set pro, go down and rest, switch leads, climb further, set pro go down and rest, etc.

Date approximate.

The crux was exposed, with balance, and the way I did it, a muscley dynamic move. Pro at the crux is a little sketchy. Hesitant about leading it. We were first up(Fun afternoon)

I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.

Clean shot up depression in fluting to top. Climbing today turned into social networking with people hiking by. We top roped a 9 year old up a nearby 5.7 (his first on real rock).

Fritz did it first, so he gets the first ascent.

Nice thin crack.

Did a slight variation that turned out to be harder than the route itself.

My rope is only about 145' long now, so we synchro-climbed part of the route. Fritz led 90% of it. He did a great job on a route that leant itself to complex climbing styles.

First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

We did it as two pitches. Fritz did the first; I did the second, which had a nice airy feel.

Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.

It went smoothly, but at the end of the day there were scratches on my back from doing it.

The route is sandbagged a bit. Should be 5.9+.

Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.

We arn't sure of the grade of this climb; no guidebook mentions of it, but its so good it had to be done by someone.

Good, but over too soon.

Did crux move in unstylish manner.

Jaggedy layback. Keeps fingers cool on hot days.

Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.

After taking a 5.8 lead it was time to relax, i thought, and toproped this one. This climb didn't seem much easier than the one i just did.

Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.

Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

Started out climbing in wrong spoot, but Fritz soon figured it out and I started out again on route. Good climb, but 5.7 not sustained, just at three short sections. Afterward we started something else and got rained out.

I led the first, very fun, marginally offwidth crack and Fritz led the second offwidth.

Swapped leads. Did a short leader fall on first pitch.