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Ascents in North America as various tick types by topher

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 469 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron South Apron
5.7 Banana Peel Trad 250m Classic
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief Echelon Wall
5.10b The Ultimate Everything - with Mike Trad 380m Good
Has a few enjoyable pitches interspersed with a lot of pretty ordinary ones, making it seem like the aim is just to get to the top, not climb great rock. Guide book gives it 10b, but I'd say 10a considering the first and last pitches.

 
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway
5.7 Boomstick Crack - with Mike Trad 60m Very Good
Sat 10th Aug 2019 - Cheakamus Canyon
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress
5.9 Star Chek - with Gregory Sport 85m, 16 Average
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.

 
Fri 9th Aug 2019 - Squamish
Slhanay
5.10d Pipeline - with Gregory Trad Mega Classic
Amazing, but also a bit scary! Ran out of gas about 1.5m from turning the lip on the overhang, took a good fall onto a tipped-out 6. Pulled up and got a bomber 4 big bro just a little lower, and made it through on the second go. Only had one 3 big bro and 2 4 big bros along with the 6 BD cam. A 0.4 BD off the belay and a medium nut at the top, otherwise 6 BD and larger for the main pitch. Next time will try to find 2 more 3 big bros, and will feel much safer!

 
Thu 8th Aug 2019 - Squamish
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner
5.9 Wonderland - with Gregory Trad 30m Very Good
Super slippery feet to begin with, and then a fun dilemma near the end of the traverse.

 
5.9 Joe’s Crack - with Gregory Trad 15m Very Good
Lovely topout move, very insecure after the rest of the climb!

 
5.7 The Locker - with Gregory Trad 15m Very Good
5.11a Weiner in the Bun - with Gregory Sport 20m, 3 Good
Second shot. Slipped off first time going past last bolt. Pretty intimidating bolt spacing!

 
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Squamish
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X
5.10c Centre Street - with Soren Trad 45m Classic
Excellent climbing with good rests and gear. Would be best to do in a single pitch, but had already used most of my thin stuff down below. Upper corner didn't feel any harder than the crack below, just intimidating with the ledge below. Great wires in corner.

 
5.9 Baby Lizard - with Soren Trad 45m Very Good
Super relaxing, climbed in approach shoes.

 
5.10c Side Street - with Soren Mixed trad 45m, 2 Good
Good fun. Only seemed vaguely familiar until I looked down from the chains. Didn't bother with top pitch.

 
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South
5.8 5.9 Slot Machine - with Soren Trad 52m Very Good
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron South Apron
5.8 Diedre - with Soren Trad 220m Classic
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron Lower Apron
5.8 Rambles - with Soren Mixed trad 90m, 6 Good
Linked p1 and p2, and then p3 and p4. nice climbing, but probably not worth it unless you don't have to wait around for it.

 
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Genesis
5.10b Geniside - with Soren Mixed trad 25m, 2 Classic
Great little line with plenty of bomber small wires when you leave the cams in the car...

 
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Bog Wall
5.8 Up From the Bog - with Soren Trad 18m Very Good
So easy to forget that this is actually quite a nice little climb.

 
5.9 Veils of Illusion - with Soren Trad 18m Good
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish
Papoose
5.10a Hairpin - with Soren Trad 120m Good
Pitches 1,2, and final pitch. Moved onto The Scenario in the middle.

 
5.10b The Scenario - with Soren Sport 40m, 6 Good
Went the wrong way at the crux and fell. Solid moves, but keep left on the small holds instead of trying for the layaway flake up right too early.

 
5.9 Mercury Vapor - with Soren Trad 25m Very Good
Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff
Sunshine Rock Paddock Wall Right
5.7 Steeplechase P1 - with Janet and Shauna Sport 12m, 3 Average
5.10b Steeplechase P2 - with Janet and Shauna Sport 25m, 7 Good
Enjoyable, just a pity it's so short. Been so long since I climbed on limestone...

 
5.10d Dark Horse - with Janet and Shauna Sport 17m, 7 Average
Not exactly sure why, but I didn't find this one all that much fun.

 
5.11a Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna Sport 13m, 6 Good
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!

 
Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff
Sunshine Rock Rathaus
5.11a 5.10d Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
5.11a The Jaxx - with Janet Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven

 
Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base South
5.10b Rutabaga P1 - with deon Trad Very Good
Good quality clombing mostly 5.9, with a couple of harder moves the the first 15m.

 
5.11a Rutabaga P2 - with deon Trad Classic
Awesome pitch. Might only get 10d on some other areas because of all the no-hamds rests, but still great. Easy gear, lots of wires and cams <0.5. Hard finish if you go the wrong way.

 
5.10b Arrowroot - with deon Trad Classic
Ringlock upper section unless you have small hands. Save some 0.5-0.75 cams for the top. Careful lowering with a 60m rope- will need to downclimb last couple of metres.

 
Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base North
5.10b Seasoned in the Sun - with deon Trad 35m Classic
Felt harder than Arrowroot, but still excellent climbing. Super well protected after the start.

 
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Cereal Killer
5.10c Captain Crunch - with deon Sport 5 Average
Could be better than we thought, as 50% of the holds were wet. A lot or the rock is partially rotted. Quite a different start, followed by lots of pumpy sidepulls

 
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Marc Andre’s Wall
5.10b 5.10c The Marc of Excellence - with deon Sport 20m, 9 Good
A bit hard to stay off the arete until the point it actually crosses. The rock on the upper half is really cool.

 
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock
5.10a Short Sentry - with deon Trad 15m Very Good
Lap for extra warmup

 
5.12a Sentry Box - with deon Trad 25m Very Good
Sweet! Second go. Screwed up the crux sequence and took a whipper at the top after I didn't find a helpful foot left of the crack at the top. Things went almost perfect second time around.

 
5.12a Sentry Box Direct - with deon Trad 25m Very Good
Super hard, and would be a super sketchy lead. Tough bottom, pretty sustained, with a crux finish. Just as well the top rail is positive!

 
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park The Brunser Area
5.10a Fist - with deon Trad 22m Good
Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Cypress Mountain
Arbutus Groove
5.10b One-ended Rope Sport 7m, 3 Average
Would rate a 'good' if it was 3x longer and not bolted.

 
5.11a Facial Expression Sport 7m, 3 Crap
Contrived and shitty, but the only other thing that was remotely dry.

 
Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Seal Cove
5.10b Diamond Seas Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
5.9 Swept Away Sport 20m, 7 Classic
Great and well protected early lead for aspiring slab climbers

 
5.11a Beware the Tides of March Mixed trad 25m, 7 Very Good
A few broken crystals, minor slips, and completely trashed shoes, but managed to stay on somehow.

 
5.10c Whānau Mixed trad 30m, 8 Average
A bit wet and super cruxy.

 
5.8 Bubble Buddy Mixed trad 35m, 3 Good
5.10b Lost Horizon Mixed trad 45m, 8 Very Good
Really nice, moderate slabbing.

 
5.10d The Next Generation Mixed trad 48m, 8 Very Good
Awesome little sections, would get 3* if it was more sustained.

 
5.9 Future and a Hope Mixed trad 48m, 3 Good
5.10b Sole Mate Sport 20m, 7 Classic
Really fun, and relaxing slabbing. Belongs near the top of the Apron.

 
Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Quartz Pillar
5.10d Pulling Muscles (Pulling Mussels) Unknown 23m, 6 Very Good
Beautiful rock, but crux was all wet, making it pretty tough.

 
5.11c 5.11b Silver Surfer Mixed trad 35m, 8 Classic
Awesome moves on amazing rock. The only thing detracting from it is not very good bolting through the middle crux section - potential fall onto ledge. First half can take several small-moderate wires and cam to 0.5BD. Climbed second shot after mis-reading the crux first go.

 
5.11a Howe Unsound Trad 35m Good
Very fun climbing, but make sure you pull down, not out! Would not be a good lead climb with so much loose flake.

 
Mon 8th Apr 2019 - Skaha
The Fortress
5.10a The Shrimp and the Wimp Trad Good
Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy)
Yellow Wall
5.11a Put Off By Lichen - with Ian Saunders Mixed trad 18m, 2 Classic
Was thinking of leading it, but the rope was already up, and I was a wee bit scared of the bit before the first bolt. Excellent larger nuts and 0.75-2BD in lower part, and possible 0.5-0.75 up left just before the last move.

 
5.10b Spiderman - with Ian Saunders Trad 20m Good
Not that amazing, but still fun. Continued up to Tiny Testicles anchor to try to help with cleaning, but ended up cleaning the lower half off the Put Off By Lichen anchors. Get someone to second!

 
Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy)
Main Wall
5.10c Black Lung - with Ian Saunders Sport 30m, 11
Really fun climbing. Fairly sustained lower half, but with a very obvious crux section. Upper part mostly 10a-ish, but super fun. Turkey vultures cruising around waiting for something to happen.

 
5.11a Rat's Tooth - with Ian Saunders Sport 18m, 6 Good
Screwed up feet just after the crux and popped off.

 
Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy)
Gomer
5.7 Give Me Face - with Ian Saunders Sport 24m, 10 Very Good
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha
The Fortress
5.10b Owl and the Pussycat - with ian saunders Trad 25m Very Good
Fiddling around with gear to the crux, plugged two wires and the blue alien in, but top wire alone was bomber. Good, technical climbing with no real power required.

 
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha
Raven's Castle
5.11c 5.12a Trad-jectory - with Ian Saunders Sport 18m Classic
Awesome little line. A real pity it got bolted, but I admit to using the bolts... Pumped out just after clipping the last bolt - 1 move before the jug...Next time!

 
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha
Another Buttress
5.6 Scratch - with Ian Saunders Trad 20m Good
5.10d 5.11b Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders Sport 16m, 4 Good
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.

 
5.7 Hair on a G String - with Ian Saunders Sport 16m, 5 Good
Actually felt like climbing.

 
5.6 Peripheral Vision - with Ian Saunders Trad 20m Average
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha
The Fortress
5.10d Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders Sport 22m Classic
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.

 
5.7 The Nutter - with Ian Saunders Trad Good
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Squamish
Highlander
5.11a Arc Strike - with Deon Trad 18m Very Good
The guide is right. A little burly at the start, but generally fairly easy after that. Unlike most other climbs, the finish wasn't very wet of dirty!

 
5.10c Crossroads - with Deon Trad 15m Very Good
Need to try it when it's dry. Moving from the finger crack traverse into the final crack was definitely harder than 10c without that hold.

 
5.11b 5.11a Pound of Flesh - with Deon Trad 15m Average
Some slightly crappy gear near the start, and a super wet, slippery and dirty topout made this the most exciting climb for the day.

 
5.11a Mouth of Madness - with Deon Trad 20m Very Good
Super fun steep finish. Will repeat each time I come here.

 
5.10d 3 Amigos - with Deon Trad 12m Good
Surprisingly good, and more technical than it looks from the ground.

 
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Squamish
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock
5.11a Hypertension - with Deon Trad 15m Classic
2 goes. Should have had it second go but bailed 30cm from top... Above pod, use features and good edge on RH side of crack to get feet high, then thrutch a little and repeat. 2nd #4 goes in deep at top of pod.

 
5.10d The Big Barn Door - with Deon Sport 8m, 2 Very Good
Jumped on this to say we actually climbed something. Really contrived, but still fun.

 
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Squamish
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane
5.10a Health Hazard - with Rose Mixed trad 25m, 2 Good
5.11a Partners in Crime - with Rose Trad 25m Very Good
Start was seeping a bit, but most of the important bits were dry. Great fun first half, then a reprieve before some nice ring locks in the easier upper half.

 
5.10b The Ugly American - with Rose Trad 25m Average
A bit dirty and wet

 
5.11a Werewolves of London - with Rose Mixed trad 35m, 1 Very Good
Balancy move into the crack, then easy up the transition left at halfway.

 
5.8 Quarryman - with Rose Trad 25m Very Good
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief Above Bellygood
5.10b Upper Black Dyke - with Alice Sport 150m, 31 Good
Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.

 
5.9 Traverse of the Gods - with Alice Sport 55m Classic
Did as one pitch. Awesome feature, well named!

 
5.10b 5.11b Universal Key - with Alice Trad Good
First pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. Good, fun climbing with a couple of reachy moves. Stepping left a near the top was quite a stretch!

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief Dihedrals
5.10c 5.11b Millennium Falcon - with Alice Trad 500m Good
Pitches 11 and 12 as part of Stairway to Heaven. Alice led runout p11, I led p12. Slightly tricky getting off belay, then mostly a ramble to the upper crux roof. Crux is moving to the roof, not turning it. Well protected cruxes.

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South
5.10a Comfortable Shoes (Women In Comfortable Shoes) - with Alice Mixed trad 55m, 7 Very Good
Alice led p1, me p2. P1 is really fun and a bit different, p2 was a bit dirty and more stock-standard slabbing.

 
5.10c Xenolith Dance - with Alice Sport 45m Very Good
P1 only. Good lead by Alice. But it's still not a xenolith!

 
5.10a 5.10c Chassè Right - with Alice Sport 45m
p2 (10a) only, accessed by traversing from Xenolith Dance anchors.

 
5.9 Moonwatcher - with Alice Mixed trad 20m, 5 Average
Weird bolting in the upper half. Foot slipped out, but managed to catch myself.

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief Penthouse
5.10a Mr. Ciechanowski - with Alice Sport 25m Average
Beware. The massive jug on the right after the roof is flexing, and will break off soon.

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief The Raven's Castle
5.10d Whatever - with Alice Sport 40m Good
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.

 
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway
5.9 Memorial Crack - with Neil Trad 35m Very Good
Gets easier each time.

 
5.8 Granville Street - with Neil Trad 120m Average
Fun enough rambling climbing on the slab +/-crack, but needs traffic to clean it up and become worth doing again.

 
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron North Apron
5.9 5.10b Vector - with Neil Trad 150m Very Good
Everything else was taken, so jumped on this after the first two pitches of St. Vitus. A lot of grovelly wide stuff, and good to have two BD3. Good fun, I'd do it again, unless St. Vitus is free...

 
Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Tricouni Peak
5.4 North Ridge - with Aeron Alpine 600m Good
Mostly 4th class with optional low 5th sections. Recommend going into the bowl and doing the full ridge to get a view of the glacier. We also got to walk through a 150m long snow cave under one of the snow patches near the base of the route. Lots of loose gravel and boulders on the lower part of the ridge slowed us down, as well as photos of all the mushrooms on the walk. The upper part of the ridge took all of about 15 minutes, with much less loose rock. Wouldn't normally bother roping up for that at all, but it got things moving faster. The walk to Cypress Peak took longer than wanted, but we got to see massive grizzly tracks, and then it was the walk down a super long esker back down to the road and jogging back to the car. About 9.5 hours total, could probably wipe almost 3 hours off if going solo.

 
Wed 19th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park
Cougar Crag
5.12a Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte Sport 13m, 4 Very Good
Screwed up my sequence to accidentally find a better one. Will try to remember it for next time...

 
5.11c S.O.S. Sport 14m, 5 Average
Was feeling a lot harder than it looked until I found some jams. Would improve if it was a bit cleaner.

 
Wed 19th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park
Tombstone Tower
5.11d Grave Digger Mixed trad 15m, 2 Very Good
Took a couple of goes to figure out the crux, but got it! Nails move into the crack above the horizontals

 
Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park
Cougar Crag
5.11b Flake Route Sport 13m, 5 Very Good
Did this to start and finish. Much easier at the start of the day! Knowing the holds and sequence helps a lot on this steep rock

 
5.12a Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte Sport 13m, 4 Very Good
Three shots, probably all too close together. Cool move past the first bolt, and then took a while to figure out the crux section with the tick marks and chalk everywhere. Figured out the feet on the second shot, then just got too pumped for the crux on the third shot. Loving this crag, is a great workout.

 
Fri 7th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park
Cougar Crag
5.11b Flake Route Sport 13m, 5 Very Good
Getting a little tired...Hard start, maybe missed something on the way to the start of the flake. Easy up flake and corner, then cruxy move out right. Move right foot up for move.

 
5.11a Pool Boy Sport 13m, 6 Very Good
Great climb, good value for the grade.

 
5.10c Awkward Proposition Sport 12m, 4 Good
Fun and steep, just a pity the top was so filthy

 
5.10d Cougarlicious Sport 12m, 5 Average
Was having troubles with getting the pro-traxion running smoothly while keeping the rope out of the water. Might have been more fun if things were running smoothly.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 469 ascents.

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