Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Banana Peel | 250m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Echelon Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Ultimate Everything - with Mike | 380m | ★ Good | |||
Has a few enjoyable pitches interspersed with a lot of pretty ordinary ones, making it seem like the aim is just to get to the top, not climb great rock. Guide book gives it 10b, but I'd say 10a considering the first and last pitches.
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Boomstick Crack - with Mike | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 10th Aug 2019 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - with Gregory | 85m, 16 | Average | |||
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.
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Fri 9th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Pipeline - with Gregory | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing, but also a bit scary! Ran out of gas about 1.5m from turning the lip on the overhang, took a good fall onto a tipped-out 6. Pulled up and got a bomber 4 big bro just a little lower, and made it through on the second go.
Only had one 3 big bro and 2 4 big bros along with the 6 BD cam. A 0.4 BD off the belay and a medium nut at the top, otherwise 6 BD and larger for the main pitch. Next time will try to find 2 more 3 big bros, and will feel much safer!
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Thu 8th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Wonderland - with Gregory | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super slippery feet to begin with, and then a fun dilemma near the end of the traverse.
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5.9 | ★★ Joe’s Crack - with Gregory | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely topout move, very insecure after the rest of the climb!
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5.7 | ★★ The Locker - with Gregory | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Weiner in the Bun - with Gregory | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Slipped off first time going past last bolt. Pretty intimidating bolt spacing!
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street - with Soren | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing with good rests and gear. Would be best to do in a single pitch, but had already used most of my thin stuff down below. Upper corner didn't feel any harder than the crack below, just intimidating with the ledge below. Great wires in corner.
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5.9 | ★★★ Baby Lizard - with Soren | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super relaxing, climbed in approach shoes.
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5.10c | ★ Side Street - with Soren | 45m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun. Only seemed vaguely familiar until I looked down from the chains. Didn't bother with top pitch.
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★★ Slot Machine - with Soren | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Diedre - with Soren | 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Lower Apron | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Rambles - with Soren | 90m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Linked p1 and p2, and then p3 and p4. nice climbing, but probably not worth it unless you don't have to wait around for it.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Genesis | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Geniside - with Soren | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great little line with plenty of bomber small wires when you leave the cams in the car...
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Bog Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Up From the Bog - with Soren | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
So easy to forget that this is actually quite a nice little climb.
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5.9 | ★ Veils of Illusion - with Soren | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Hairpin - with Soren | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Pitches 1,2, and final pitch. Moved onto The Scenario in the middle.
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5.10b | ★ The Scenario - with Soren | 40m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Went the wrong way at the crux and fell. Solid moves, but keep left on the small holds instead of trying for the layaway flake up right too early.
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5.9 | ★★ Mercury Vapor - with Soren | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Paddock Wall Right | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Steeplechase P1 - with Janet and Shauna | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★ Steeplechase P2 - with Janet and Shauna | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable, just a pity it's so short. Been so long since I climbed on limestone...
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5.10d | ★★ Dark Horse - with Janet and Shauna | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Not exactly sure why, but I didn't find this one all that much fun.
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5.11a | ★★ Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Rathaus | ||||||
5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Jaxx - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven
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Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base South | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Rutabaga P1 - with deon | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good quality clombing mostly 5.9, with a couple of harder moves the the first 15m.
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5.11a | ★★★ Rutabaga P2 - with deon | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome pitch. Might only get 10d on some other areas because of all the no-hamds rests, but still great. Easy gear, lots of wires and cams <0.5. Hard finish if you go the wrong way.
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5.10b | ★★ Arrowroot - with deon | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ringlock upper section unless you have small hands. Save some 0.5-0.75 cams for the top.
Careful lowering with a 60m rope- will need to downclimb last couple of metres.
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Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base North | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Seasoned in the Sun - with deon | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt harder than Arrowroot, but still excellent climbing. Super well protected after the start.
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Cereal Killer | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Captain Crunch - with deon | 5 | Average | |||
Could be better than we thought, as 50% of the holds were wet. A lot or the rock is partially rotted. Quite a different start, followed by lots of pumpy sidepulls
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Marc Andre’s Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★ The Marc of Excellence - with deon | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A bit hard to stay off the arete until the point it actually crosses. The rock on the upper half is really cool.
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Short Sentry - with deon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap for extra warmup
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5.12a | ★★★ Sentry Box - with deon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sweet! Second go. Screwed up the crux sequence and took a whipper at the top after I didn't find a helpful foot left of the crack at the top. Things went almost perfect second time around.
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5.12a | ★★ Sentry Box Direct - with deon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super hard, and would be a super sketchy lead. Tough bottom, pretty sustained, with a crux finish. Just as well the top rail is positive!
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Brunser Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Fist - with deon | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Cypress Mountain | ||||||
Arbutus Groove | ||||||
5.10b | One-ended Rope | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Would rate a 'good' if it was 3x longer and not bolted.
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5.11a | Facial Expression | 7m, 3 | Crap | |||
Contrived and shitty, but the only other thing that was remotely dry.
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Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Seal Cove | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Diamond Seas | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Swept Away | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great and well protected early lead for aspiring slab climbers
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5.11a | ★★ Beware the Tides of March | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few broken crystals, minor slips, and completely trashed shoes, but managed to stay on somehow.
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5.10c | Whānau | 30m, 8 | Average | |||
A bit wet and super cruxy.
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5.8 | ★ Bubble Buddy | 35m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Lost Horizon | 45m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice, moderate slabbing.
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5.10d | ★★ The Next Generation | 48m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome little sections, would get 3* if it was more sustained.
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5.9 | ★ Future and a Hope | 48m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Sole Mate | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really fun, and relaxing slabbing. Belongs near the top of the Apron.
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Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Quartz Pillar | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Pulling Muscles (Pulling Mussels) | 23m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful rock, but crux was all wet, making it pretty tough.
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5.11c 5.11b | ★★ Silver Surfer | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome moves on amazing rock. The only thing detracting from it is not very good bolting through the middle crux section - potential fall onto ledge. First half can take several small-moderate wires and cam to 0.5BD. Climbed second shot after mis-reading the crux first go.
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5.11a | ★ Howe Unsound | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Very fun climbing, but make sure you pull down, not out! Would not be a good lead climb with so much loose flake.
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Mon 8th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10a | ★ The Shrimp and the Wimp | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Yellow Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Put Off By Lichen - with Ian Saunders | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was thinking of leading it, but the rope was already up, and I was a wee bit scared of the bit before the first bolt. Excellent larger nuts and 0.75-2BD in lower part, and possible 0.5-0.75 up left just before the last move.
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5.10b | ★ Spiderman - with Ian Saunders | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not that amazing, but still fun. Continued up to Tiny Testicles anchor to try to help with cleaning, but ended up cleaning the lower half off the Put Off By Lichen anchors. Get someone to second!
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Lung - with Ian Saunders | 30m, 11 | ||||
Really fun climbing. Fairly sustained lower half, but with a very obvious crux section. Upper part mostly 10a-ish, but super fun. Turkey vultures cruising around waiting for something to happen.
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5.11a | ★ Rat's Tooth - with Ian Saunders | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Screwed up feet just after the crux and popped off.
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Gomer | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Give Me Face - with Ian Saunders | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Owl and the Pussycat - with ian saunders | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fiddling around with gear to the crux, plugged two wires and the blue alien in, but top wire alone was bomber.
Good, technical climbing with no real power required.
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
Raven's Castle | ||||||
5.11c 5.12a | ★★★ Trad-jectory - with Ian Saunders | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome little line. A real pity it got bolted, but I admit to using the bolts...
Pumped out just after clipping the last bolt - 1 move before the jug...Next time!
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
Another Buttress | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Scratch - with Ian Saunders | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.
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5.7 | ★★ Hair on a G String - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Actually felt like climbing.
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5.6 | ★ Peripheral Vision - with Ian Saunders | 20m | Average | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.
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5.7 | ★★ The Nutter - with Ian Saunders | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Highlander | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Arc Strike - with Deon | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The guide is right. A little burly at the start, but generally fairly easy after that. Unlike most other climbs, the finish wasn't very wet of dirty!
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5.10c | ★★ Crossroads - with Deon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Need to try it when it's dry. Moving from the finger crack traverse into the final crack was definitely harder than 10c without that hold.
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5.11b 5.11a | Pound of Flesh - with Deon | 15m | Average | |||
Some slightly crappy gear near the start, and a super wet, slippery and dirty topout made this the most exciting climb for the day.
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5.11a | ★★ Mouth of Madness - with Deon | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun steep finish. Will repeat each time I come here.
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5.10d | ★★ 3 Amigos - with Deon | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly good, and more technical than it looks from the ground.
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Hypertension - with Deon | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 goes. Should have had it second go but bailed 30cm from top...
Above pod, use features and good edge on RH side of crack to get feet high, then thrutch a little and repeat.
2nd #4 goes in deep at top of pod.
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5.10d | ★★ The Big Barn Door - with Deon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jumped on this to say we actually climbed something. Really contrived, but still fun.
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Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Health Hazard - with Rose | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime - with Rose | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start was seeping a bit, but most of the important bits were dry. Great fun first half, then a reprieve before some nice ring locks in the easier upper half.
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5.10b | ★ The Ugly American - with Rose | 25m | Average | |||
A bit dirty and wet
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5.11a | ★★ Werewolves of London - with Rose | 35m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Balancy move into the crack, then easy up the transition left at halfway.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Rose | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Above Bellygood | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Upper Black Dyke - with Alice | 150m, 31 | ★ Good | |||
Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.
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5.9 | ★★ Traverse of the Gods - with Alice | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did as one pitch. Awesome feature, well named!
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5.10b 5.11b | ★ Universal Key - with Alice | ★ Good | ||||
First pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. Good, fun climbing with a couple of reachy moves. Stepping left a near the top was quite a stretch!
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Dihedrals | ||||||
5.10c 5.11b | ★ Millennium Falcon - with Alice | 500m | ★ Good | |||
Pitches 11 and 12 as part of Stairway to Heaven. Alice led runout p11, I led p12. Slightly tricky getting off belay, then mostly a ramble to the upper crux roof. Crux is moving to the roof, not turning it. Well protected cruxes.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Comfortable Shoes (Women In Comfortable Shoes) - with Alice | 55m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alice led p1, me p2. P1 is really fun and a bit different, p2 was a bit dirty and more stock-standard slabbing.
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5.10c | ★★ Xenolith Dance - with Alice | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 only. Good lead by Alice. But it's still not a xenolith!
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5.10a 5.10c | ★ Chassè Right - with Alice | 45m | ||||
p2 (10a) only, accessed by traversing from Xenolith Dance anchors.
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5.9 | ★ Moonwatcher - with Alice | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Weird bolting in the upper half. Foot slipped out, but managed to catch myself.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Penthouse | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Ciechanowski - with Alice | 25m | Average | |||
Beware. The massive jug on the right after the roof is flexing, and will break off soon.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Raven's Castle | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Whatever - with Alice | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.
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Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Memorial Crack - with Neil | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gets easier each time.
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5.8 | ★ Granville Street - with Neil | 120m | Average | |||
Fun enough rambling climbing on the slab +/-crack, but needs traffic to clean it up and become worth doing again.
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Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.9 5.10b | ★★ Vector - with Neil | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Everything else was taken, so jumped on this after the first two pitches of St. Vitus. A lot of grovelly wide stuff, and good to have two BD3. Good fun, I'd do it again, unless St. Vitus is free...
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Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Tricouni Peak | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ North Ridge - with Aeron | 600m | ★ Good | |||
Mostly 4th class with optional low 5th sections. Recommend going into the bowl and doing the full ridge to get a view of the glacier. We also got to walk through a 150m long snow cave under one of the snow patches near the base of the route. Lots of loose gravel and boulders on the lower part of the ridge slowed us down, as well as photos of all the mushrooms on the walk. The upper part of the ridge took all of about 15 minutes, with much less loose rock. Wouldn't normally bother roping up for that at all, but it got things moving faster.
The walk to Cypress Peak took longer than wanted, but we got to see massive grizzly tracks, and then it was the walk down a super long esker back down to the road and jogging back to the car. About 9.5 hours total, could probably wipe almost 3 hours off if going solo.
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Wed 19th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Screwed up my sequence to accidentally find a better one. Will try to remember it for next time...
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5.11c | ★ S.O.S. | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Was feeling a lot harder than it looked until I found some jams. Would improve if it was a bit cleaner.
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Wed 19th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Tombstone Tower | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Grave Digger | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a couple of goes to figure out the crux, but got it! Nails move into the crack above the horizontals
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Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Flake Route | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this to start and finish. Much easier at the start of the day! Knowing the holds and sequence helps a lot on this steep rock
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5.12a | ★★★ Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three shots, probably all too close together. Cool move past the first bolt, and then took a while to figure out the crux section with the tick marks and chalk everywhere. Figured out the feet on the second shot, then just got too pumped for the crux on the third shot. Loving this crag, is a great workout.
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Fri 7th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Flake Route | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting a little tired...Hard start, maybe missed something on the way to the start of the flake. Easy up flake and corner, then cruxy move out right. Move right foot up for move.
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5.11a | ★★ Pool Boy | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, good value for the grade.
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5.10c | ★ Awkward Proposition | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun and steep, just a pity the top was so filthy
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5.10d | ★ Cougarlicious | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Was having troubles with getting the pro-traxion running smoothly while keeping the rope out of the water. Might have been more fun if things were running smoothly.
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