Routes as alpine in North America

This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's more than 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.

1. From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

2. Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

3. Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)

4. Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.

5. Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)

6. Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)

7. Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)

8. Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.

9. Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)

10. To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)

11. This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)

12. Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)

13. Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)

14. Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)

15. This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10+ or A0)

From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.

P1: Climb 30-40m over left leaning flakes to a promoniant horn to belay, Just below where the Dihedral becomes more pronounced.

P2: Follow the second overlap of the steepening dihedral for 40m to a flake belay.

P3: the crux pitch, Continue up the dihedral for 25m, stem left and pull a cruxy move onto a sandy ramp, climb 5m up to an alcove belay

P4: Mantle to the second big ledge then climp up and right over a block to gain a solid ledge. climb down and right to gain surfs up ledge. belay at the far end.

P5:Follow the obvious face crack off the ledge, pull over an awkward block and belay at 30m

P6: climb 5.8 jams to a pedistal belay at 30m

P7: follow 20m of 5.7 cracks to gain a boulder on the ridge crest, belay here.

scramble the ridge crest to the summit then descent off the Kraus-McCarthy Rap Route

The west ridge of Pigeon Spire is a bugaboo classic, and you will be sure to meet other parties on route. The majority of parties choose to simul-climb the route as it is predominantly 4th class, with a handful of 5m 5.4 steps. Mountain boots are recommended for the B-S Col and Vowell Glacier, but once you are at the ridge you can swap to approach shoes to make the climbing easier.

Follow the upper Vowell glacier to the toe of Pigeon Spire's west ridge, Just above the Pigeon-Howser Col. You can ditch your glacier gear, ice axes, and crampons here. Next scramble up the ridge, taking the path of least resistance. The majority of the time you will be on, or just below the ridge crest but never more than 5m away from it.

From the first summit descent down 4th class slabs, the climb up to the second summit may appear steep at first, but quickly grows into a blocky nature and is never more than 4th class. A narrow section of the ridge is best done Au Cheval.

From the second summit contour right and down a short 5th class crack system to a col with the main summit. Continue down and left under the main summit across icy or snow-covered ramps to a short blocky chimney. Scramble this then continue left either through a chimney or taking a short handrail on the outside of it. once at the end of the handrail follow broken cracks up to the main summit block.

Descent

Do two 30m raps from bolted stations off the main summit block down towards the icey ramps you scrambled across earlier. Then reverse the route you scrambled up, downclimbing where necessary.

This climb sees the most traffic out of all moderate climbs in the area. With a relatively short approach, bolted anchors, and a bolted rap line, this is one of the least committing climbs in the bugs.

Approach: From Appleby camp, head up the north moraine (behind the water tap) and navigate left of the first lake, up and around the right of the second lake. The climb you're looking for is in the obvious dihedral on the arete of the crescent spire.

1. 5.9 35m - Climb dihedrals and flakes to a slung horn below the dihedral. Either belay from there or climb to the base of the finger crack heading up the left side of the dihedral (gear anchor).

2. 5.10- 35m - follow the finger crack to a platform. Keep going up in a short dihedral to find the bolted anchor.

3. 5.4 15m - Head up and right through broken terrain to find a short (4-5m) 5.4 crack. Alternatively, if comfortable on the terrain, you can solo around the big boulder on the right to avoid the 5.4 (4th class).

4. 5.9 35m - Most people consider this pitch to be the crux of the climb. Follow two parallel hand/fist cracks to a first small overhang. Hands and fists crack brings you to a second overhang. A platform offers you a well-deserved rest for the feet. Keep going up using blocks in a larger crack and a finger crack on the right. From the large ledge, either build a gear anchor below the next pitch or walk left to a bolted anchor (some parties may be using it on the descent).

5. 5.8 35m - Climb the crack system directly above the last pitch. (If using the left anchor, consider extending it to belay more easily. Bolted anchor.

6. 5.7 30m - Often skipped since the previous anchor leads to the rappel route. Scramble easily to the ridge, making a few low fifth moves.

Descent: Either walk east to find the descent gully between the crescent spire and crescent towers or rappel the McTech rappel line.

McTech rappel line: From the anchor of pitch 5, make 6 single rope rappels to the ground or 4 double rope rappels. From the ridge, find a bolted anchor about 20m up and (climber's) left from the anchor of pitch 5. Note: Although the guidebook notes the rappels as 28-30m, many parties have found themselves 1-2m short of the next station when using a single 60m.

Close to camp and often climbed on "rest days" or as an introduction to the area. The first two pitches are optional and can be avoided by following a long ramp starting much further left. If you are comfortable at the grade, the direct start is a much more enjoyable option.

1. 5.8 30m - Find the "A" shaped cracks and climb the right side to an alcove.

2. 5.8 30-70m - Climb out of the alcove on the right and climb up multiple discontinued vertical cracks, pinching, and jamming. Great exposure. Belay after the vertical part or scramble up as far as rope drag and length will allow.

3. 5.5 50-70m - Scramble up easier terrain, staying just right of the steeper wall. Again, go as far as possible. Multiple ledges and anchor options.

4. You might have to do one more pitch of low fifth if you didn't do long pitches on 2 and 3.

5. 5.7 40m - Keep scrambling up and make your way to a left-leaning ramp with one awkward move to access it.

6. 5.8 40m - Climb up cracks and belay on a small ledge after a bulky move, right below the chimney.

7. 5.8 40m - This is the money pitch! Make sure it's yours! Climb the obvious chimey with wedged blocks to make it between the ears.

8. 4th class 15m - Climb to the eastern ear.

Descent: Downclimb or do a short rappel to regain the ledge between the ears then head around the back of the eastern ear. Do two single rope rappels and follow the ridge to gain the Cressent-Eastpost col.

10 pitches

Great climb. Shares start with ladybug, but then continues straight towards the highest summit of the wall. Climbed it in two super long pitches on the FA, but there are spots to belay if you have a problem with rope drag. Gear is decent on the 1st, questionable on the 2nd. Successive overhangs and runout gear on the 2nd pitch keep it interesting. Needs traffic to get rid of some loose rock on the second pitch.