Routes as sport in Damtjern

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cbp-aR3Nbwr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

First grade 9 in Norway

8c?

Climb the crux of Stive Dempere (8a+) and traverse into Draumkvedet (8c) at the jamming crack and climb the top of Draumkvedet. A hard boulder at the top. There is no good rest on the route and the top crux is harder than the crux on Stive Dempere. For this reason: 8b or 8b+.

Note: The name "Araber flikk-flakk" is referring to an exercise in gymnastics - a name chosen by Håkon Hansen. There is nothing racist about it.

The "2021 Kolsås Climbing club guide book" lists this route as a "F7c+". The route is graded F8a+ (or harder). The route had its first female ascent recently in 2013, 27 years after its first ascent.

Grade adjusted in accordance with latest Drammen guidebook (2023)

Route in the big crack between Snikene Kommer and Batman. Bolts to the right of the crack.

Beta: You should follow the bolt line and not climb to the far right and use holds on "Sikre Perioder" - to the far right is a big ledge and this is off route.

The crux is to pull from a thin undercling with the right hand while standing on smears for the feet and to reach for a one-and-a-half finger pocket with the left. Then put your left foot high up on a small edge and match in this pocket and reach for a good hold. There are no big foot or hand holds on the route. Only thin underclings, sidepulls and smears for the feet. There is a no-hands rest in the middle of the route but you can continue to the top of the crag - this does not change the grade.

Note: I believe some people are cheating and are using the large ledge to the right on another route. If you use this large ledge to the right, you are climbing a combination of "Sikre Perioder 7a+" and "Edle Stener" and this route is graded 7a/a+. If you want to claim an ascent - post an uncut video of the ascent online at 27crags to avoid any confusion.

The "2021 Kolsås Climbing club guide book" lists this route as a "hard F7c" - the crux move is one of the hardest at Damtjern - harder than the top crux of Draumkvedet (F8c). The route is much harder than Stive Dempere (8a+) and Ayatollah (8a+). The same guide moreover makes the false claim the ascent was done in 1990. It was climbed in summer 1989. The guide book has been written by people that didnt climb the route.

https://www.kolsaas.no/klatreforeren-for-oslo