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Maurpillaren

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Access issues inherited from Pianokrakken

Henningsværveien is prime stalking grounds for the Vågan parkeringsinspektør. In the summer, they feast on hire cars. Parking within marked lines & away from no stopping signs (posted `M´) should keep you off the menu.

A few options for parking at this crag. Please park sensibly in one of these pullouts-

(68.187428, 14.224556), (68.189266, 14.218913) & (68.185784, 14.226230)

Routes

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Grade Route

The Maurpillaren to Sjørfjellet ridge. Mostly easy alpine style scrambling with some exposed sections. There´s 2 rapps, both 30m & both from fixed nuts & slings.

It´s possibe to continue traversing all the way to Nordryggen (up to N6-, 2 x 60m ropes needed).

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FA: Tom Pedersen

1 5- 30m
2 6 35m
3 6- 30m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996

1 5- 25m
2 6- 25m
3 6 12m
4 6+ 10m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995

1 5- 30m
2 5- 25m
3 6 12m
4 5 15m
5 5+ 18m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993

FFA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1995

An old guidebook mistake has seen more traffic on this route than it deserves. Bold.

FA: Colin Binks & Chris Craggs, 2008

1 5- 30m
2 5+ 40m
3 5- 15m

FA: Kjell Ove Storvik & Niels Poulsen, 1988

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Ola Modeer, 2007

Starts 20m up from the Pizatyven descent. Up the open corner, then straight through the 45 deg roof.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2017

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): C. Craggs, Th. Enevold

Date: 2017

Lofoten - perfect, grey granite in dramatic landscapes. These islands provide terrain for every climber. Whether multi-pitch, sport climbing routes or long trad routes

Author(s): J. Paulsson

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9789163904189

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering found in the Lofoten Islands in northern Norway, covering more than 700 problems in 24 separate bouldering areas.

Author(s): R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788299776981

A comprehensive guidebook covering 34 of the main sport climbing areas in Norway, detailing many 1,000's of routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 17 May
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