Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hand Shandy | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Bolts need rejigging on this
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22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, pretty humid day
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19 | ★ Gimli's Gripe | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Kleptomania | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt.
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
19 | ★★ Use the Fork Luke | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely not 18 as in the guidebook. Very hard start., had to get out crack glove, and hard second clip
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21 ~20 | ★ Movin' On Up | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Quite a nice climb
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22 | ★ Scooter Fun — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Couple of enhanced holds it seems, pretty goey crimping without great feet off ledge, especially my first attempt when my belayer mistakenly mistook a power grunt dead point for a sign I was falling
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Kate Bush | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Start pretty thin but ok. Top easy.
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21 | ★★ Centre of block | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. I think the start warrants 21. It’s unpleasant. The rest of the climb is nice
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17 | ★ 14 Carrot Gold | 35m | Average | |||
A bit of this, a bit of second pitch of something else. It was ok. Friend enjoyed the multipitch experience
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19 | ★★ Chip Off the Old Block | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt to get to carrot route above. Good warm up
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19 | ★★ The Rift | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Apparently the third repeat
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
17 | ★ The Knights of Nee | 20m | Crap | |||
Grungy, loose etc. not sure how it scored 2 stars in the guide
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Law & Disorder | 25m, 2 | ||||
The crux was quite fun, would feel ok on lead with a bit of a scrub I think
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15 | ★★ Peppercorner | 30m | Average | |||
Rpt
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Sparrow | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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15 R | ★ Birds Nest | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
20 R | ★ Oblivion | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Oblivious doesn’t really differ much from this.
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20 | ★★ Atomic Punk | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. Good climbing, though quite Sandy in places
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14 | ★★ The Obituary | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I’m not a great fan of this route
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Wed 21st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Alive 'n' Kicking | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unfortunately the sun had hit the wall by the time I got here and could see not much due to glare and it got rapidly hot. Need to come back in shade.
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20 | ★★ Funkytown | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another good crunch route, short but fun
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17 | ★ Thanks Mum | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Well bolted
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18 | ★ Awesome Daddy | 10m | ||||
Rock improves up higher
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14 | ★ The Cat that Fought Back | 15m | Average | |||
Less crux than the two right of it, soa better lead for our friend
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Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
16 | ★ Trick of the Light | 20m | Average | |||
The engineering job on the shaking flake is a bit scary. Would have best been trundled or wall left alone.
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21 ~22 | ★ Shabang — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty hard moves to below roof. Interesting and fun and a sandbag at 21.
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21 | ★★ Tree Beard | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice juggy fun and probably a grade easier if tall
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14 | ★ Back to Back | 13m | Average | |||
15 to 19 | Boatbuilding For Clancy | 12m | ||||
Pretty gnarly move off sharp and small crimps, unless you can reach the good one
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15 | ★ Dirty Beasts | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting crux
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup | 45m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Have seconded GITM before. Start better than I remember, some good moves between nice rests. Did as one long pitch
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21 | ★ Querilous Journey | 40m | Average | |||
Did as suggested in guide and started at first bolt rather than create a mega cairn.
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19 | ★ Caconofix | 50m | Average | |||
The move off the low ledge is tricky if you can’t reach the jug
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Plumbers Crack | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Not too bad for a sandstone crack
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19 | ★★ Chip Off the Old Block | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
I think it was fun enough but not that memorable
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20 ~19 | ★★ Wise Crack | 55m | Average | |||
This felt pretty easy even in a post viral fog. Pitch 1 only
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23 | ★★ How Far We Have Fallen | 33m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 weeks laying on the couch has not helped my endurance.
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Tue 13th Dec 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, had forgotten how tricky this can feel
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24 | ★★★ Weena two (direct) | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hasn’t had much traffic lately
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt, much less stressful than leading
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23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 9th Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
17 | ★ Tolkien's Pockets | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up through the fig
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24 | ★ Grimy Wormtongue — 2 attempts | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
2 laps, the effect of being sick for the past 2 weeks showed by the second lap
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22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps. Hadn’t been in a harness for 13 days. Unheard of!
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Thu 8th Dec 2022 - Dudley | ||||||
Northern End | ||||||
V0 | Flake | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★ Fire Burn and Cauldron Bubble | 5m | ||||
A fair few crunchy holds, did R to L but did in 2 halves after holds broke
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V1 | Double Double, Toil and Trouble | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Dippin Slots | 3m | ||||
V0 | Captain America | 3m | ||||
V1 | Captain Jack | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Captain Planet | 3m | ||||
V0 | Captain Underpants | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ Captain Morgan | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★ Captain Crocs | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★ Captain Hook | 3m | ||||
Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | ||||||
22 | ★★ Walk Like an Egyptian — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Logged as attempt because I was setting up and then taking down a rope swing for 10 children and only wanted to get to lip. Quite fun, will return when not raining to finish head wall.
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Fri 25th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ The far right | 50m | ||||
15 | ★★ The Corner | 45m | ||||
15 | ★★ Bill's Line | 50m | ||||
15 | ★★ The Chimney Direct | 50m | ||||
15 | Fashionista | 45m | Average | |||
Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Spray | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice climbing
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21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to climb flake to left and traverse in at 1.5 m good conditions
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | ||||||
23 | ★ Mad Moroccan Cabbies | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tricky delicate slabbing, would feel impossible if spoogy. A bit of brushing helped a lot.
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21 | ★ Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus | 10m | ★ Good | |||
More a high ball boulder, felt 3 grades easier than Tetragrammaton!
|
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ No More Mr Nice Guy | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The traverse was less daunting than it appeared, some awkward positions.
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21 | ★★ Tetragrammaton | 40m | ||||
First pitch clean, second pitch found the lower bit fine but spat off a metre from the top when it’s way too wide for my fists
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Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
15 | Dislocator crack | 12m | Average | |||
25 | Dislocator Beta | 12m | ||||
Tried this last time I was here, better than it looks
|
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15 | ★ Knocked In Rock | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb despite ledge
|
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
19 | ★ Dangle | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
Fun enough but glad to have a longer panic draw, every bolt just out of reach
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16 | Whack | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
Nice rockpast the ledge. Stopped hereafter our fall misn to find sun lover area. Setting out from carpark at 3 pm it wasn’t the best choice for a quick arvoclimb
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15 | ★ Nugget Juggler | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Better than it looked
|
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
26 ~24 | ★★ Tour de France — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The down grade is personal due to the fact it seems most people and myself stay right of the bolts for most of the climb. It feels pretty contrived otherwise. The old bolts need replacing.
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Fri 18th Nov 2022 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Mr Plumpy — 2 attempts | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
A bit contrived, the middle sequence was cool though, one of the drier routes today
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19 | ★ Not the greatest view — 2 attempts | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Wet and not having a good day reading the rock. Good climb
|
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21 | Captain Barnacles — 2 attempts | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Nice view and fun bouldery start. Got sucked left too early into the 28.
|
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Shimmy Sheister Buttress | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Waiting for Bobbo — 2 attempts - with David Gray | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried leading but stumped at third bolt. Despite trying every permutation, including as pictured in the guidebook I could not get the reach to the key hold. Every other move done, though often with twice as many moves as Dave needed, including a technical start for the short! Great name.
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18 Hard | Looking for the Heart - with David Gray | 10m | Average | |||
I keep doing V grooves in the hope I might like them but I don’t think I ever will…
|
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Nighthawks Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Nighthawks - with David Gray | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Big hand size for me
|
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Trench-Foot Face | ||||||
19 Hard | ★ The Inspector | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes finding holds at start, then it backs off
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17 | Trench-Foot | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Was wet and dirty but good movement
|
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Saturday Night Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Zoo's Face | 10m | Average | |||
Would be a slightly scary solo
|
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16 Hard | ★★ Stopping on the Red | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Felt harder than route to left, may be body size related
|
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17 | ★ Change My Tune | 10m | ★ Good | |||
V grooves are not my thing, but this wasn’t too bad and easier than 16 to the right
|
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Sat 12th Nov 2022 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Paw Jamming | 7m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
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21 | ★ Stone Age | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, slab dynos
|
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24 | ★★ Bloodhound | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still finding this finger destroying
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24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ||||
Short but some good movement. Too hot in the sun to try again
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Thu 10th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Suicide Sadness | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did as one mega pitch which is probably best avoided, despite good gear management and double ropes the last 10 m were painful. Great climbing
|
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17 | ★★ Kabling | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Felt harder than the 18 I thought through the roof
|
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18 | ★ Master Class | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived, but nice face climbing
|
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20 | The Trump Tower | 24m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Looked interesting, turned out to be junk, apt name.
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17 | ★★ Janzoon | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Nice view throughout, but the rock is a bit grungy
|
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Tue 8th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
15 | ★★ Slow Combustion | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did as one mega pitch, really nice easier route on the pipes
|
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17 | ★★★ Blue Meridian | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit of wobbly rock on second pitch, first pitch was nice, I think there’s better17s at the pipes.
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Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
26 ~24 | ★★ Tour de France | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Have to do double the moves at the start cf Dave, but it’s still easier than the 24 to the left. The rest didn’t feel much harder than the 24 either, but not sure I trust the bolts. A rebolt would be good.
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20 | ★★ Serial Driller | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
Rpt. I don’t really like this route any more. It doesn’t flow.
|
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
13 | Anniversary climb | 40m | Average | |||
A bit of a waste of bolts, but it was useful for multipitch “training” I guess.
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