Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 26th Feb 2006 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
13 | ★ Candle Power | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A good climb with a feisty start.
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Sat 18th Feb 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit | 70m, 23 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The loose, flakey rock is disconcerting but the frequent bolts help. Spicy headwall on P2!
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Thu 26th Jan 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
18 22 | ★★ Rubicon (Rubicon p1) | 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sweet! Acrobatic and interesting moves, good protection. Belay a bit hard to find.
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16 23 | ★ Voyager (Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1) | 95m | Average | |||
Easy but quite runout & lots of ledges. Nice overhung crux.
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Sat 31st Dec 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
15 | ★ Electrolyte | 22m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought-provoking crux.
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14 | ★ Low Voltage | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The rock is still a bit loose on this one.
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Tue 27th Dec 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Copper Top | 22m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A couple of stylish moves followed by some cranking then a walk through the moss to the top.
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Mon 26th Dec 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
The Crown | ||||||
21 | ★ Urban Villain | 16m | Average | |||
Tough thin moves at the crux.
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Sat 10th Dec 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
10 | ★ Sunday Afternoon Walk | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A nice cool warmup in hot weather. 12.3.05. (2nd) Tentative return after nearly 4 months off. Hard for a 10!... or is it just me?
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13 | ★ Tardis | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A hard crank at a point disconcertingly close to the ground. 2.11.03. Pleasant little climb.
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12 13 | First Layback | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Some challenging moves at the start. 27.9.03: Sweet climb.
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Sat 26th Nov 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | Average | |||
Awkward and blocky.
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Sat 19th Nov 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climb with a variety of challenges. Date?: Pleasant crack and face climb. Not a scary offwidth.
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16 | ★ Winston Alley | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Followed Dave. 5.10.03 Fun bridging. Nice one.
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20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Armpit-wrenching layback moves in a steep finger-crack.
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17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb with a bit of exposure. 18.1.04: Enjoyable little climb... except for the hot sun!
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Sun 13th Nov 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Swinger | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A superb traverse move makes up for an awkward start. Lovely and exposed finish.
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16 | ★ The Horse | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Pretty ordinary. Not sure about using wires in this rock.
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22 | ★ Procrastinator | 17m | ||||
The miniscule crimpers were too much for me!
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19 | ★ Something About Sandy | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very enjoyable first climb on slider.
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21 | ★★ The Most Monstrous Monster | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimpy, pumpy, and overhanging.
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16 15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb and a bit pumpy.
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Sat 22nd Oct 2005 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy | 45m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some nice overhanging bits.
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Wed 5th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 | ★★ Acapulco Gold | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Second, rest? More like second, haul. Definitely not my kind of climb.
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16 | ★ Immaculate Deception | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Deception indeed without chalked up holds. Should be easy now that I've been on it
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Wed 5th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
14 | ★★ Witch Hunt | 40m | Average | |||
Tough for a 14! Thin gear at start. Lovely moves over overhang.
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Tue 4th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Kamikaze | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Muscley crux. Very nice once I worked out how to do it!
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Tue 4th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
16 13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Redpoint. Love this climb. Jug overhang city. 23.4.04. A series of fun juggy overhangs. Just what I was looking for!
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Tue 4th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Colin lead. Quite thin and facey. Small gear.
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Mon 3rd Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful indeed.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
4 5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One..... Awesome..... Adventure
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Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
With 2+ parties waiting on the ledge below me, freaked out at the overhang on p3 & rested on gear. Great once you commit!
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Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
14 | ★ Minimus | 12m | ★ Good | |||
One-move wonder... but what a move!
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Fri 30th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very pumpy! Great small-hands crack at the top! Also pink-point dog 6.10.05. Woof woof woof.
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15 | ★ Nero | 13m | Average | |||
Fri 30th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great overhangs. Did in one pitch but lots of rope drag. 19.4.04. 2nd clean. Nice overhangs with good jugs.
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Thu 29th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Footloose and Fancy Free | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Go fast so you don't get pumped! Warren's second lead at Araps (he only jumped 6 grades)
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15 | ★★ Siamese Crack | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Thrutchy! Araps cracks are not what I'm used to!
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Thu 29th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome position. A thought-provoking traverse then easy-peasy.
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Tue 27th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ★ Good | |||
3rd. Warren's first lead at Araps! 21.4.04. 2nd clean.
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Tue 27th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
17 | ★ Saint Peter | 10m | ★ Good | |||
a.k.a "Take the heater". Quite strenuous. A bit of jamming and a bit overhanging.
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Sun 18th Sep 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Heliosphere | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome belay at the top!
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Sat 20th Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Vicious. Challenging crack climb ranging from offwidth to thin-hands. Only rested to extract a !@#$ nut.
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Wed 17th Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Saffron Crack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great, challenging "big-hands" crack spoilt by a "chimney-surprise" finish. Ran out of gear which wasn't fun.
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Sun 14th Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumpy solid climb. Great moves. Just have to get my head around it.
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17 | ★ If | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Colin. Facey start and some interesting moves.
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16 | ★ Rack Attack | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice little climb. Pity it's such a drama to get to!
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Sun 31st Jul 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route | 520m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun, exposed adventure.
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Sat 30th Jul 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fluid / Epic Link Up (Fluid-Epic Connection) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow. Fantastic climbing up 2 great lines, split by a graceful traverse across the void. Topped off with a shady belay on flat rocks! Pumped out several times but can't wait to experience this superb climb again!
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Sun 17th Jul 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
17 | ★ Specific Gravity | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very enjoyable. Nice sharp holds, being a new climb.
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14 | ★ Nice Acid, Shame About The Volts | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A nice climb. 28.6.03. Second.
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21 | ★ Abandonment Issues | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A tightly-bolted pumpy start, then it's all over. Very enjoyable.
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17 | ★ Variable Resistance | 24m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Some yukky climbing followed by some very stylish moves with a bold sting in its tail.
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Sat 16th Jul 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
The Crown | ||||||
22 | ★★ Fuck Off Noddy | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A super-duper high step finally got me through
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Sat 25th Jun 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
1 | ★★ West Track | 340m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First 'climb' on Tibro.
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Sat 11th Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | Average | |||
Finally got it clean. 4.6.05:A head challenge with small gear and insecure jams. 9.11.03 2nd clean.
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Sat 4th Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Witches Covert | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it this time. Dangerously loose top section. Belayer helmet mandatory. 4.7.04. Dog. Fun, pumpy overhanging hand crack. Nice jams if you can hold them.
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Sun 15th May 2005 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Short Cool Ones Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Dark And Stormy | 60m | ★ Good | |||
(First pitch only) Nice in hindsight. A bit runout but good gear. Lots of dodgy flakes, including one that broke off and nearly took out my belayer!
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Sun 1st May 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
15 | Pop-up Toaster | 6m | Average | |||
Sat 23rd Apr 2005 - Girraween | ||||||
Second Pyramid | ||||||
14 | ★ Buzzard Bait | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun overhang needs a big crank and some despereate jamming to finish. :-D
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Sun 3rd Apr 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
9 | Three Nuns | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice climb for the injured... and a great alternative to the scree slope!
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Sun 20th Mar 2005 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
East Face | ||||||
15 16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India | 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead top two pitches. Great views, nice belays. A mix of yukky climbing and excellent climbing!
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Sun 14th Nov 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
16 | ★ Chicken Wings | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
A bit runout between 2nd & 3rd bolt.
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18 | ★ Prima Diva | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Hard crank at the start.
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Sat 13th Nov 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sea Of Fools | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical, balancy start. Very pumpy finish. Ran out of puff two moves from the top :-(
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Sun 10th Oct 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★ Phatang | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux... rest... crux... rest... crux... rest... crux... rest... crux... rest...
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Sun 26th Sep 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
21 | ★★ Uzis On Speed | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Love this climb! Pumped out on top bolt :-(. 21.9.03. Toprope. Technical start, then sustained middle, then jug city finish. Very enjoyable!
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Sat 25th Sep 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
17 | ★★ Free Range Heggs | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A series of mild overhangs. Beautiful flakes at start. Very enjoyable!
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Sat 25th Sep 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
17 | ★ Thanks For The Fish | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Tricky before and after first bolt. Quite balancy. 8.6.03: Dog. Sandbag by Colin! 1 rest.
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Sun 19th Sep 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spooky trying to get off the pillar into the crack. 27.6.04: (2nd) A rewarding climb with a scary bit in the middle. Awesome hand jams :-D
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19 | ★★ Monty Pythons Flying Circus | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Bypassed the V-groove at the bottom. Interesting bridging & fairly sustained.
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Sun 12th Sep 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Noose | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as tough as I expected. A pleasant climb requiring more technique than strength.
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Sun 29th Aug 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★ Off the Wall | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Hard and sustained.
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16 | ★ Moonlighter | 15m | Average | |||
Quite thrutchy. Not fun for the first climb of the day with frozen feet!
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Sat 28th Aug 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★ Humility | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice delicate face climb but fairly sparse gear.
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Wed 11th Aug 2004 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Disbelief | 8m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice thin crimpy climb. Equalise small wires for first gear; big wire for top gear.
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18 | ★ Monks Alive | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sustained moves throughout. Bring your biggest boltplates!
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Tue 10th Aug 2004 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fun Parlour | ||||||
18 | ★ Powered By Bosch | 8m, 1 | Average | |||
Seems to be necessary to detour right after first bolt.
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20 | ★ Rags To Riches | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Tough and pumpy.
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21 | ★★ Flat Batteries | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Delicate start then overhang on crimpers. Nice!
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19 | ★★ Steamy Windows | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumpy crimper near bottom then excellent overhang near top. Very nice climb.
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Mon 9th Aug 2004 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Whipping Boy | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very weird unco middle section with a high reach. Fun, fun overhang to finish.
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20 | ★★ Empty Pockets | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very balancy with deceptively useless pockets.
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15 | Knuckle Sandwich | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
A 15??? Yeh, right.
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Mon 9th Aug 2004 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Don't Chew The Fat | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Not a good choice for warmup. First gear a bit high for my liking.
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Sat 7th Aug 2004 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fun Parlour | ||||||
19 | ★ Phantom Cockroaches | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice delicate climb. 12.8.03. Dog: Crimpy! One-move wonder.
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18 | ★★ Room With A View | 8m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun, juggy roof.
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16 | ★ Son Of A Beach | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Chased the dog away. 10.8.03. Dog: Overhang + crack + pumpy + my highest natural so far! No wonder!
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20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mighty nice roof. (Pre-placed gear.)
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Sat 31st Jul 2004 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
14 | A Bug's Life | 20m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Dodgy natural gear. Felt more like "Solo 10m to FH, then solo final 10m to anchors." Not recommended for grade 14 leaders!
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Wed 28th Jul 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Chip-a-Holdaway | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hardest staircase I've ever been on.
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Sun 25th Jul 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Famous Cosmetics | 40m | ||||
OMG what a thrutch-fest! Thrutchy, rewarding, great first half; thrutchy, worthless, horrible second half.
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18 | ★★ Borderline 29 | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A hairy-scary traverse followed by wonderful exposed climbing on an arete. Exhilerating!
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17 | ★ Liquid Laughter Layback | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
(First pitch only.) A very nice climb spoiled a bit by a horrid thrutch.
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Wed 21st Jul 2004 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | Salt Sity Waltz | 18m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Sat 17th Jul 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Mango | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely little facey climb hidden away up on the Bojangles ledge.
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19 18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful climb. Blew the onsight when my foot slipped. D'oh!
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Sat 10th Jul 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Satyricon | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot nicer than what the guide says. Bridge and jam combo.
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Sun 4th Jul 2004 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Integrated Injection Logic | 15m | Average | |||
Awkward & unpleasant. Tough for the grade.
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