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Ascents in Oceania by Joshua Merriam

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Showing all 87 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 26th Feb 2021 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
22 Epoxy Passion Sport 20m, 8 Good
24 Wandering Star Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
22 Snifter Sport 20m, 8 Good
23 Weapons Sport 18m, 7 Good
18 Incy Wincy Spider Sport 15m, 4 Average
Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Eua
the Lost Walls the Lost Wall
24 Forbidden Fruit - with greg jack, Jean Jack Sport 80m, 12 Very Good
didn't climb the access pitch, one hang on Gregs 2nd pitch, but climbed my alternate via "Original Sin". First lead of tree of knowledge pitch, not really onsight as I bolted it. And followed Exodus pitch clean even with heavy backpack. Not a gimmee.

 
Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Eua
the Lost Walls the Lost Wall
24 Original Sin - with greg jack Sport 30m, 8 Good
tricky turning the corner at the 3rd bolt and getting onto the face/tufa. then sustained finicky face climbing till the traverse and jug at bolt 6. Not as good quality as Gregs 2nd pitch of Forbidden Fruit, and didn't turn out to be easier.

 
Thu 13th Jun 2019 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall
23 Blind Faith - with Jean Jack Sport 40m Very Good
First pitch interesting path moving left across the blind part. Second pitch tough onsight finding the best holds and clipping the DBB

 
Tue 11th Jun 2019 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall
17 Blade Runner - with greg jack Sport 35m, 13 Good
long and varied, goes to Cosmos anchors. Could use a separate lower anchor for direct toproping and cleaning, above current midway anchor, but in alcove right above line.

 
Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall
18 19 Tricerabolts - with greg jack Sport 20m Average
just lots of jugs through moderate terrain

 
19 The Fa Tufa - with greg jack Sport 18m, 6 Average
toproped direct line into third bolt at about 20. And possibly easier line staying left until about bolt 5 at <18. otherwise, a good feature.

 
21 Lobster Claws - with greg jack Sport Good
sharp, but crisp, not too hard actually

 
23 22 Rubiks Pocket Pulling Puzzle - with greg jack Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
climbing right of second bolt makes it easier, but still challenging through low crux, and hanging on up top.

 
22 20 Seasick Sailors - with greg jack Sport Average
quality of rock seems mungy/wet. hard long moves at start and bolting a bit high on first bolt, hard to clip 3rd.

 
Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall
22 Tafu'a'a Puna Sport 30m, 8 Good
Climbed using jugs on arete right of bolts, otherwise it would be more full on through the middle part. Starts with some jugs up past the first bolt, but in your face immediately to the second, which is a bit high. cruxy to the third bolt, but plenty of pump remaining for the top half of the first pitch. Didn't do the second pitch

 
Mon 11th Mar 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin
Cave Stream High End
V5 3 Baby Food - with greg jack Boulder 6m Mega Classic
Perfect, mega classic highball. A bit glossy feet right off the ground, tricky and continuous as you gain elevation.

 
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Britten Crag
The Alcove
25 Mt Pleasant Butcher - with greg jack Sport 14m, 6 Classic
stout in three ways, the crimps up top aren't confident

 
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Britten Crag
Tiger Wall
22 Cat's Cradle - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 4 Average
the third bolt has been replaced

 
25 Southern Exposure - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 5 Good
Only the moves to the third bolt seemed near 25.

 
24 23 Storm Bringer - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 4 Good
very reachy start, even hard off cheater stones

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Charleston
Southern Cliffs Cathedral Cove
18 Sharks Breakfast - with Helen Sinclair Trad 25m Classic
to connect into Storm in a teacup, spaced gear, many options high and low

 
21 Droite du Senior - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 4 Good
warm up, decent route if a bit crumbly seeming

 
24 Louise's Climb - with Helen Sinclair Sport 22m, 7 Very Good
two hangs at crux, fierce crimping, and tricky hold finding

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
The Thunderdome
24 Jug Jockey - with John Chambers Sport 12m, 4 Good
a bit runout past last bolt to the anchor. broken jug down low

 
28 Alternative Traverse - with john chambers Sport 12m, 6 Good
low traverse of Gone Bimbo, only pulled up on draws while JOhn worked his project

 
Sat 23rd Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Ataturk Wall
23 Salome Maloney - with digger Sport 16m, 5 Average
climbed right side of rooflet down low, but back left to rest ledge higher up, crux across the last bolt to anchor around right

 
20 Disillusions of Grandeur - with digger Sport 18m, 7 Average
or maybe it was session route. ito cave and finished above and right although left seemed an option and had one glue in bolt didn't use

 
Sat 23rd Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
The Thunderdome
27 Mysterious Swine Disease - with greg jack Sport 12m, 7 Very Good
seconding Greg with two hangs

 
Tue 19th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Mr Clean Wall
23 Getting Rid Of Mr Clean - with greg jack, Digger Sport 19m, 3 Good
TR to clean, nice lap but pumpy. spaced bolts, but this one at least safeish

 
22 Bombs Away - with greg jack, Digger Mixed trad 18m, 3 Very Good
good climbing, needs a bolt at the handsfree stance between 2 and 3 to be safe

 
26 Drop The Bomb - with greg jack, Digger Mixed trad 18m, 2 Average
Not sure I even did all of the moves, and the line is not much to look at,

 
21 Scratching Julius - with greg jack, Digger Trad 18m Good
TR, gear would have been fine, obvious crack line

 
Mon 18th Feb 2019 - Britten Crag
The Alcove
23 Liposuction - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 3 Very Good
had to get draws down after falling at chains during PH300. now that I know the holds it's fine, as long as the rock stays

 
Mon 18th Feb 2019 - Britten Crag
Tiger Wall
24 Over the Top - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 6 Average
surprising ly solid horn feature at second bolt. line is cramped on headwall, might veer onto Beer hunter holds

 
23 American Dream - with Helen Sinclair Sport 16m, 5
Awesome true onsight, great holds all the way up, plenty of clipping jugs in the steepness. A few wobbly blocks but they seem keyed

 
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Britten Crag
The Alcove
23 Disco Logic - with Helen Sinclair Sport 11m, 5 Average
2019 Port hills 300

 
22 Wave Of Mutilation - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 4 Good
2019 Port hills 300

 
21 U Haul - with Helen Sinclair Sport 10m, 3 Average
2019 Port hills 300

 
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Britten Crag
Tiger Wall
22 Speights Race - with Helen Sinclair Sport 16m, 5 Classic
2019 Port hills 300 - awesome jugs through roof, pulling on is tricky, and so is the top, but only just

 
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Cattlestop Crag
Surgical Strike Wall
21 Fiesta - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 5
2019 Port hills 300

 
17 Hotter than Hades - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 4
2019 Port hills 300

 
20 Violet Crumble - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 4
2019 Port hills 300

 
23 Passage To India - with Helen Sinclair Sport 13m, 3
2019 Port hills 300

 
21 Midnight's Children - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 5
2019 Port hills 300

 
22 Surgical Strike - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 5 Classic
2019 Port hills 300

 
20 Satanic Verses - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 3
2019 Port hills 300

 
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Mr Clean Wall
23 Getting Rid Of Mr Clean - with Helen Sinclair Sport 19m, 3 Very Good
2019 Port hills 300

 
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Rage Wall
21 Leaning Wall - with Helen Sinclair Sport 20m, 7
2019 Port hills 300

 
22 Victim Of Ravishment - with Helen Sinclair Sport 23m, 5 Good
2019 Port hills 300

 
22 21 Buddies - with Helen Sinclair Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
2019 Port hills 300

 
Mon 11th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Rage Wall
21 Into The Trees - with Helen Sinclair Sport 18m, 2 Don't Bother
climb direct to the first bolt of White Lies. some hardish cranks off decent holds, but contrived

 
18 18/19 White Lies - with Helen Sinclair Mixed trad 18m, 2 Average
rather average climbing through 2 spaced bolts

 
17 The Environment Centre Bites The Dust Trad 18m Very Good
great trad route, fun climbing and good gear.

 
20 Suppressed Personalities Trad 20m Good
steepish at beginning but with good holds and decent gear. slabby and sparse up top, not as good but easier

 
27 Prize Fighter Sport 18m, 8 Average
stout reachy crux through 3,4 bolt, then trashy climbing into top of leaning wall

 
21 Leaning Wall Sport 20m, 7
quick repeat for fitness

 
19 19/20 Out On A Limb Sport 18m, 5 Good
crimps to the first bolt, kind of pumpy up top, sparse bolts

 
Sat 9th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Rage Wall
20 21 Buddies - with greg jack Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
pleasant, but needs a bolt between 1 & 2 to be safer

 
22 Victim Of Ravishment - with greg jack Sport 23m, 5 Good
hung out a while placing cam out left at 2nd bolt, wasn't really on route

 
25 Rage Sur La Plage - with greg jack Mixed trad 20m, 4 Good
high first bolt, and tricky onsighting holds through the second crux

 
Wed 6th Feb 2019 - The Altar
17 The Pulpit - with greg jack Sport 10m, 4
Fun on strange holds. sinlge bolt anchor?

 
21 Thor's Hammer - with greg jack Sport 14m, 4
jams in the crack and stemps to the face on right. The top moves are good as well

 
23 Rasta's Revolution - with greg jack Sport 11m, 5 Very Good
best rock, clean corner, but strenuous climb through the stembox section

 
27 David and Goliath - with greg jack Sport 10m, 4 Good
awkwardly into the corner with torture yoga

 
24 Altared - with greg jack Sport 12m, 3 Good
reachy and strenuous

 
Mon 4th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
Left Side
16 Gooder's Line Trad 14m Classic
onsight solo of obvious line, very nice

 
Sat 2nd Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock
The Thunderdome
25 Layer Cake - with John Chambers Sport 12m, 6 Classic
start off stacked rocks, good holds up into the groove, steep and great

 
Thu 31st Jan 2019 - Wunderbar
15 School's Out! Sport 15m, 4 Average
Easy access to same anchors as CYF.

 
18 K3 - with Helen Sinclair Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Good line up the wall, nice holds and interesting line. at the top a layback crux at the last bolt.

 
19 Cross Your Fingers - with Helen Sinclair Sport 15m, 4 Good
Crux at first bolt, and at again with reachy last moves.

 
19 Crack Me Up - with greg jack Sport 11m, 5 Very Good
Great climbing up the first part, but bolts at top a bit confusing, and no anchors on top?

 
16 More Than Ewes Can Chew - with Siena Jones Sport 10m, 4 Good
climbs well and reasonably bolted. nice holds

 
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Three Sisters
The Twisted Sister
20 Killing Capitalism With Kindness - with greg jack, Helen Sinclair Mixed trad 13m, 4 Good
step off tree, climb rightward across face, then back left at the top past 5th bolt to chains

 
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Hospital Flat
Falcon Steep Wall
23 22 Counter Intelligence - with helen sinclair Sport 20m, 9 Good
route has been retro bolted to climb direct through roof and finish on the arete stance rather than join Falcon Steep

 
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Lovers Leap
23 Killer Wail - with helen sinclair Unknown 26m Good
first climb we did on the wall, some jamming

 
Thu 3rd Jan 2019 - Hospital Flat
Falcon Steep Wall
22 Falcon Steep - with helen sinclair Sport 20m, 10 Mega Classic
awesome line with great features and holds up a continuous vertical face

 
Wed 2nd Jan 2019 - West Wānaka Bluffs
Al Cap Area Al Cap
25 Badger - with helen sinclair Sport 15m, 6 Classic
had to downclimb and rest twice, but hung on for the send. good moves between nice stances

 
Tue 1st Jan 2019 - West Wānaka Bluffs
Al Cap Area Al Cap
25 Tuffer (Huffer) - with helen sinclair Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
on third go, lots of crimping. best rest is off left of bolt line

 
Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Lovers Leap
22 It Always Ends In Tears - with helen sinclair Unknown 26m Very Good
climbs mostly with right hand in the crack and left bear hugging the arete

 
23 Via Magma - with helen sinclair Unknown 40m Good
22 Pink Cadillac - with Helen Sinclair Unknown 28m Very Good
Very interesting shallow corner and bridging moves

 
Sun 18th Nov 2018 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
23 Anti Walk Device Sport 25m, 10 Classic
awesome line with sit down rest on the ledge mid route. fixed draw in the roof with red point crux getting to anchor.

 
22 Honey I Blew up the Atoll Sport 19m, 7 Good
challenging for the grade between the first and second bolt. interesting holds and angles through the bottom half, easing up in difficulty to the first anchor, then an optional finish over the roof, which we did not do.

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Eua
Northwestern Beach crags Olu sea cliff
22 Kontiki - with greg jack Sport 35m Very Good
A great line with plentiful tufa and flowstone holds up the consistently overhung top half. The bottom half is of lower quality and basically just serves as access.

 
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Eua
Laku Fa'anga Bowl of Cliffs Bikini Bottom
24 Nautical Nonsense - with greg jack Sport 60m, 35 Very Good
The waves were crashing and the wind howling, but we got it done. Top pitch still needs some cleaning

 
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Mânava Wall
21 20 Generosity - with greg jack Sport 38m Average
Bolting choices detract from the climbing. first bolt too low, ledge fall potential mid route, awkward position for 1st anchor, Good stone on second pitch is a saving grace. Did not climb the 3rd pitch.

 
Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Eua
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall
18 20 Lei Kina (Dirty Dagger) - with greg jack Sport 28m, 8 Good
straightforward climbing up the right side of the feature with some possibly reachy moves among the first few bolts. The face climbing mid-way up was thoughtful and leads into the black groove at the top which is dirty but reasonable. Nice ledge for bringing up the second, but bolted well for toproping with a 60m.

 

Showing all 87 ascents.

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