Ascents in Oceania by Marcus Loane

Bit mossy today

Really awesome super well-protected grade 12 climbing. Fun moves on cool holds. My favourite climb here so far.

Hey DoD, in my opinion, this is a worthless pikers-variant link-up which adds nothing to the crag except confusion on the topo. It doesn’t even straighten out the line as cleaned in description. My vote would be to delete it from the guide to try and assist with clarity about where the original routes really go. People can always link them if they want.

Using the cracks on right and left

Climbed all except the match to start (I started with only 1 hand in undercrimp)

Nice moves down low, but top-out could probably do with a bit more cleaning.

Downclimbing is probably the crux

Good for the kids

Good for the kids

Good for the kids.

Sit start didn’t add much but staying on left side of the arête the whole way up was fun.

Added sit start which adds a nice move but realised that the whole bottom part of this flake moves. When the right person pulls hard on it down low it will blow.

First few moves are a bit contrived not using the big holds of Machinations which are easily within reach but it is fun all the same.

with fully loaded pack on back

Steep start then delicate traverse to gain a beautiful face with fantastic jugs. The carrots stop then there is a perfect hand-jam crack with a rusty carrot on a horizontal ledge over top then climb near the tree to the left to the top where there is a single carrot next to a good horizontal cam break for the anchor.

Hand jam crack to reach tree ledge. Carrot mentioned in the current route description isn't until over the very top (ie it is part of the anchor next to a small cam crack). Headwall after ledge with trees is climbed without protection.

To the new LOs

Dangle start with 1 hand in undercrimp (v3ish). Probably start 2 hands in undercrimp required to make it v4?

Right heel hook to start has brought it back to the grade

Bit crumbly

Harder for shorties

Great starting on left arete. A grade or two harder if doing the direct start.

Sharp, awkward, contrived but still good.

Great traverse

One move wonder trying to get the feet sorted while bum in the dirt and then making grab for arete.

Sit start felt more like v4 than v1 to me. Sharp holds.

Stay low till meeting Poxy then up is good

Bit mossy