Start up the overhanging twin finger cracks (finger sized cams and wires), then move out left past 2 bolts with some bouldery stemming, to third bolt (top anchor). Use second last bolt (w/ mallion) and anchor above to lower off.
Trad start to FH then a few carrots to chains. The topos show a completely independent line from the ground. However this line appears to require that you hang yourself off, put your gear in, and position your belayer beneath, some very suspicious large booming roof flakes. And its dirty. If you'd rather not take that risk than a good alternative at about the same grade is to climb Sickle for 5m then heel hook R along the lip of the main roof a few metres below the FH, and turn the lip using the short fingercrack. The face climbing from the lip of the roof to the anchor is great, on some of the most solid rock at the crag.
It’s physical; you know that you have been climbing and it goes up with a well defined crux. It has all the elements of a great climb in a fantastic wilderness setting
(1) 35m 23. Start at the base of the vertical flake at the LHE of the slanting cave opposite the fireplace. Traverse right after the 3rd BR and delicately up to gain the powerful under cling just above the 5th BR; from where you reach up high to the right to gain a positive edge. 7BR and 2-3 larger wires to BB and 3½ Friend.
(2) 25m 15. Continue up with 3BR to belay on blocks.
(3)40m 23/24. To be continued up the North Summit.
Follow the track past the intail climbs, just before the access to the top there is a ring bolted sport route next to it. Follow the cresent moon crack to the top and then head left and top out for the route. Top access for ring bolts or a sport 19 to the right for a warm up to get to the ring bolts. Have not bolted the route itself yet.
Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.
Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.
Start at arête 30m R of Shazzam. Jump to jug, then traverse immediately right. Up through bouldery section (crux), then left to great climbing up arête. Mostly bolts plus cams (one large ~4, one small ~0.5). No lower-off - top belay.
Note: Descent for this and other routes is by rapping from rings above Bam ba Lam.
"Extreme, yet worthwhile".
Crank strenuously onto wall, clip BR in extremis and stand up. Thin moves left to rest and BR. Technical-cum-desperate moves past BR then just hard climbing past 2 BRs. Cam anchor.
Start: 10m right of " Systems of Romance"
