Routes as unknown in Oceania

A non existent route.

The mega extension to Utopia. very Athletic, über pumper to the end.... a full 80m rope gets you down to the ground, or rethread at first anchors.

Starts as first pitch of China Fingers. Blast directly up orange face and corner. Veer left on flakes to slight brown streak. Final boulder guards the anchor. Massive pitch.

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 will continue to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

Vertical seam into roof.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Start beneath the overhang. Head up and left using the left side, side pull and pull pull pull. Sharp, fine holds.

Start as for Soft but go up and head left.

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!

Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay).

Looks good.

1. 35m. Start as for Diamond Dogs Direct Start. Up DDDS to its fourth bolt then straight up, through the traverse line of DD, and the headwall above (fixed hangers) to a double ring belay.

2. 45m. Step L and up into a thin flake (bolts). From the top of the flake, hard moves right up a series of edges. Up leftwards (bolts) to drop down left around the base of blunt arete and up into the gully to belay.

Previously unrecorded but climbed years ago (like 100's of others). A 3-move problem. Start on a gaston crimp and small pocket, launch RH to the sloper, match, then straight to Boing's finish hold.

Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).

Climb up to the roof then head left to finish up Juggling Junkie.

Extend the belay down to th lip the RB r S e lower ledge. Climb L. C in the horizontal roof, and then go fo it. Out L, cranking through the lip. Climb corner above (two RB’s).