Routes in Cheile Șugăului

Fully repaired and re-bolted, the old pitons are still in place though.

Approach:

From the Ecolog hut follow the red triangle marked hiking trail to the Șugăului rock until you get to a wooden pavilion and continue further for 3-5 minutes and then take a right at an over hanged boulder that has the red triangle until you get to the base of the wall where you will see the start of the route marked with a big white square painted on the rock.

Retreat:

Follow the ridge to the left passing the boulder, approx. 30m. There are some spits for safety. It will get you back to the red triangle hiking trail where you can take a left or right which will get you to the Ecolog hut in approx 30 minutes.

The route starts right after the "Agonie si Extaz" retreat route. when descending you will see the route on the left. The first belay station is at a pine tree and is marked with the letter "R" and an arrow showing the direction to the second pitch.

The route starts at the end of the Via Ferrata middle descent route. The first pitch is easy to climb but has a lot of grass and the pitons are distanced. The belay stations are on pitons and there are many bolts and pitons on the rest of the pitches.

First two bolts common with X-ray

First two bolts common with Parașuta

Broken hold, grade went up a bit

High first bolt, partially on pitons

High first bolt

Crack variation.

Direct variation.

Left variant.

Right Variant

Project, potential new 9a in RO.