Ascents in Dairy Farm as Retreat

My left middle finger can't handle it

so many spiders

Got up to the sixth bolt clean, managing to take it slow and careful. Then just could not for the life of me work out what to do to get to the last bolt. Under the overhang things are clean and dry and conditions were good, after the overhang the last bit of gulley was just green with moss, maybe there are holds around but struggled to find them.

Had a few goes pulling myself up and looking for a decent hand to stabalise and clip but no joy. In the end had to give up. A bit gutted cause things had gone so smoothly till then!

I don't know if it just needs a thorough clean near the top, whether I'm missing something obvious, or whether something's come off, but just couldn't get to the 7th bolt. Will take my stick clip up next time to clean off the mallion and maybe give it a clean up there and see what I can see.

Cruised up this to where you step out left to put your hands on the stepped ledges and discovered that the foothold was extremely loose. Downclimbed (to retain the Onsight) and casually with forefinger and thumb removed the whole block of foothold. Carried on with the climb up to the ledges but then realised that as there is no bolt near-ish the lip of the ledge and over the ledge there are no features, I’d be looking at a potential ground fall if I was to not execute the mantle perfectly on the dirty sloping ledge. Binned it and downclimbed. Needs a bolt six inches below the ledge to move this from an unnecessarily dangerous route to a super fun route. Laughably not a 5b with those shelves to mantle in the middle, more akin to Acro variation on its left if a bit less strenuous.

Bit of a nightmare. Eaten by ants at the bottom, hard to find anything decent to rig a ground anchor, muddy as hell. Must've spent 45 minutes trying to work up to the halfway point, feet slipping all over the place. Eventually decided to down-climb to one of the least dodgy looking bolts to retreat.

Feels much tougher than 6a, lots of mud and water, very dubious bolts and large sections of the left hand side of the route look like they could crumble away - take care if trying this one, plenty of risk of pulling out rocks or pulling off holds... Maybe another time, maybe I'll leave this one.

Attempted to second this after Hamish gave a great account up a filthy line. Dark descended and left me stuck at the crux without being able to see the key footholds. Such is life. Coming back for round 2 in the daylight.

Rained off at the 4th clip. I’m beginning to think some sky deity doesn’t want me to lead rope solo this route. In other news, the bottom threaded anchor or direct takes an M10 threaded bolt (a dismantled Hilti HSA works real pretty and is rated for shear strength). There is some real break yourself potential on this route if you were to slip near the next bolt when LRSing.

Started questing up lead rope solo then realised it was in the direct sun and I was getting an impressive bit of sunburn. Binned it in favour of avoiding skin cancer.

fell on Daniel Soh and injured his foot

Rock fall from above concluded this climb earlier than anticipated.

very cool moves, need to figure out the last move without aiding using a BD number 3 cam!

First Kahlil retreated due to loose rock. On my attempt the same loose rock caused me to take a whipper on a nut placed by Kahlil. Retreated shortly afterwards. could not remove the nut.

Tradded over to mother Teresa to take a look. Looks like it may be ~ 20 years ago it was bolted and the washers are rusting out. Fixed rope for access also appears to have rotted away. Route should probably be abandoned if not rebolted.

3rd bolt on the crux is a challenging move on lead. I cheated past it, by pulling on a tri-cam. Around the 4th/5th bolt I dislodged a sizable amount of loose rock. Consider this route dangerous. Proceed with caution

Struggled on the crux of the 1st pitch

Backed off the route after not making the crux