Ascents of Jam Bang

I really like this route. Still trying to find a way to make the beginning feel really smooth, I'm sure there's a cleaner start than I'm doing.

Pratting about after leading direct.

Got so sweaty, I greased myself off the climb on the first couple of moves.

Sweaty mess take 2!

Clean redpoint attempt, strictly using the crack. I am pretty shit at crack climbing but it feels tough for 5.8 or 5a. Especially the first move. Probably reckon it's more like 5.9. I think part of the reason I find it hard is because (for me) the crack is 'thin hands' size, which I am (apparently) really shit at.

I did sandbag myself by carrying an oversized rack, so ensured to place as much as possible on the way up. Once above the first crack and transitioning to the second, a BD 0.5 cam fits just nice off to the left extended with an alpine draw for rope run (placement is close to one of the bolt hangars).

With the begginning slopey moves and spanny, how can this be 5a? Also the top flat faces arent so easy to if you are not allowed to climb to the left. Please change it to 5C with me.

First clean send after almost 8 years! Since Long Dong Taiwan

Lovely route, great crack at the beginning. Little bit run-out as you transition to the smaller crack at the top.

Seconding up Climb that turkey 's lead starting from jam bang, and linking over to direct.

2nd lead of the day

Linked across to direct

When climbed only using the crack, this climb is actually quite spicy, and I posit more difficult than the historical grade of 5a. I'm proposing a grade of 6a+, there are some very legit crack climbing methods required for this climb: hand-jams and foot-jams. The protection is fairly good (for Dairy Farm) in the cracks.

I placed my DMM Dragon Cam (size 3 == BD Camalot Size 0.5) near the top of the climb and it was so over-cammed it got completely stuck. I was trying to rush in a last piece of gear, (with not much to choose from) to hastily finish the climb. Lesson learnt: don't rush in gear, and don't force a cam into too small a hole.

trad in sg! not fantastic, but better than not climbing.