Ascents in The Nose

Found it harder than Alarette with a few steeper sections through the bulges. Required a bit of thinking through some sections.

So close to onsight. One rest after trying various body positions at around the fifth bolt. Lovely route, want to get back on it now.

Question - is the big crack on the left (i.e. first blood) on? I used left hand in the crack for a couple of moves, right hand on small crimps on the face.

Took a bit of a crank - I was absolutely exhausted by the time I gae it an honest go at the redpoint

With Al himself! nice climb.

Attempted on lead. Trying to avoid the bees nest which is now on route.

Successful TR ascent. Great route!

Watch out for the bees nest!

Loose rock abounds. Technical climbing.

On TR, pulled on the rope to clear the crux. Fair amount of loose rocks.

Tradded over to mother Teresa to take a look. Looks like it may be ~ 20 years ago it was bolted and the washers are rusting out. Fixed rope for access also appears to have rotted away. Route should probably be abandoned if not rebolted.

Done in the dark - means the bees are asleep! Much safer.

First Kahlil retreated due to loose rock. On my attempt the same loose rock caused me to take a whipper on a nut placed by Kahlil. Retreated shortly afterwards. could not remove the nut.

Starts from the top of First Blood. During this ascent stayed left following the good rock (avoiding the loose rock).

[linked from P1 first blood] We did a headtorch dance, swapping them over as I set off, (worried that mine was going to die) but in the end it was probably unnecessary! Causing Al to belay me in the pitch dark. I had a bit of fun with the gear. first getting a BD microcam stuck then freed, and then I managed to get a Totem cam well and truly stuck, but not carrying a nut tool, it needed a rescue 🙈😅 (standard).

Super awesome! Cool moves through crack before the beautiful arete. Felt it was more straight forward than First Blood.

Very cool crux, but punted off after. Got it second go. Footwork is like shit after too much steep bouldering!!!

danger danger!!! libing is quarries is bad for your health!!! I hae no finger skin left!!! ak!

With Al Silva

2nd pitch has some pretty interesting spots - always funky climbing on loose blocks!

2nd pitch is classic trad, but has a few loose blocks.

Mixed ascent (bolts / natural pro)

Night climbing!

I led the 1st pitch taking the original route by traversing left at the top of the flake, then up the vertical crack, mixed route trad gear and bolts. Khalil led pitch 2, all trad gear to the fixed anchors.

After completing pitch 2 of First Blood, and lowering back to the P1 anchors, its very simple to link to Alarette. As this route starts from the stance at the left and goes up and to the left.

Scary second pitch

Rope solo, sooo close to the onsight but one fall on the crack that closes off the first pitch. Did the whole route trad, but the movement from the top of the flake across to the left to the crack feels exposed without using the bolts. Fun route - nearly fell off the end of the second pitch was done in.

Faff to setup a ground anchor, ended up using a hex, two nuts and a cam, cause I just don't trust that those big chunks of rock will not shift around.

first multi-pitch trad (1st pitch real chossy)

For P1 we Climbed the flake, Stayed right and gained the slab from Nose Ramp. Interesting route variation to make it a tad easier than climbing the crack. Perhaps this is supposed to be 'First Blood original route' ???

Eoin seconded P2 in the dark , and then we rapped off.