Routes as sport in Free State

start the small roof just right of the erete

climb the long roof following the crack line

shares anchor with TP

uses HP bolts, and only rock between HK and BP bolt lines

start the thin crimp leading to the jug on the smooth face

start by deadpointing the smooth face on finger pockets

start the duno to the jug then up the overhanging face. might be 22 for shorter climbers

start the thin crimpy face then through the roof at the top

tricky start stick clip the first bolt

climb the right hand route up the face

the route up the middle

I bolted this line as it looked really good, it follows the steap overhanging route on the left of the face

probably one of the best routes at this crag, follow the left hand line on the steap face just right of the erete

this is the thin crimpy face on the far side of the boulder, a really thin crimpy climb

Rising traverse from the left. Start from the corner.

Takes the awkward corner and up through the roof.

Ascend from the lowest point on the wall and then through the shield near the top.

Ascends the steep wall just to the left of the chimney.

Set to become one of the harder classics of the crag. The steep ramp leads to the obvious overhanging layback. Traverse beneath and then through the roof to the slab above.

First route here. Right hand side as you look at the wall.

Steep and sustained. Crux is at mid height. The bolts are a little sparse (compare the number of bolts with AGH, which is the same height), so don’t attempt to lead this route unless you are confident of the grade). Until the 4th bolt has been clipped, you have the potential of a groundfall if things go slightly wrong. We have permission to add two more bolts (in between what are bolts 1 and 2, and 3 and 4). Someone should try to do this…

Towards the right end of the boulder wall when standing in the little "passage" and facing the boulder. Climb up to the overhang and then up the right of the arete.

A very tricky route for the grade, but quite enjoyable if you get it. Mind your head!

Only just a different route to MOPE. Keep to the right of the same line of bolts. Rather just do MOPE.

The right-most line of bolts.

Straight up from the tree stump.

The route follows a prominent open book crack for its entire length.

3m right of up your kloof

Hanging belay route on the left of the main vertical face.

1. 17 3B A

2. 17 6B A

Climb the bulging face on the right hand side of the boulder. High first clip.

Climbs the thin seam on the left hand side of the boulder. High first clip.

Takes the steep line on the front of the boulder which faces downhill. Start up the slab very carefully due to much loose rock on the bottom slab and hit the roof.

The leftmost route on the west side of the boulder, almost 20m long!

This route starts right of STICKY WEEKENDS and veers left to join that route.

Starts in the middle of the boulder on the west side.

The line of pockets and buckets 2-3m right of LOST ARROW.

Starts behind the large tree just left of QUIVER. The first crux can be avoided if you have a huge armspan, fun moves.

Line on right hand side of west face of boulder. Good balancy face moves.

Climbs the side closest to the main mountain. Pull on some fun pockets to the top.

Start just right of bush, up to large elliptical pocket and then up rightwards to chains.

Short fun line left of Moon Unit.

Fun pocketed line left of Platypus. Many holds, the good ones well hidden. Can be a little sharp on the fingers.

Takes the bottle shaped groove on the east side. This makes for an unusual but good route.

Don't stay in the indent too long.

Starts next to PLATYPUS and heads up rightward.

Was Craig Reed's project, only has top anchors. Grade may be between 25 and 28?

The rightmost route on the eastern side of the boulder, a little sharp. CHEAT CLIP the second bolt when leading to avoid a potential groundfall!

Between Quiver and Speary, some unusual climbing. The route name is an acronym for Yet Another Twenty One. Consensus on grade wanted.

Climbs the steep pocketed route on the west face.

A very short route taking a short arete left of Drie Hoek Kerrie Koolie Koek.

The route up the east facing slab section of the boulder.

On the western side of the boulder.

Originally lead/soloed by Joffrey & Martin as an access route up the main face, turned out to have 2 damn fine pitches. It starts on a short grey face about 70m left of MIRACLE FOUNTAIN. This route is still evolving and since it was an access route some of the bolts are not ideal! Please note that this route as yet does not go all the way to the top.

1. 19 (6D,A) 13m Straight up to the grassy ledge. You may want to climb past the anchors and onto the grassy ledge. There are anchors to use about 2-3m to the left on the face.

2. 18 (10D,A) 26m An excellent pitch up some surprisingly solid rock, climbs up two bulges to a tree. Tie a knot in the end of the rope!

3. 10 (4D,A) Walk right from the tree along the ledge until you can see anchors in a vegetated gully. From here do a mantle move with a big slab above and climb diagonally to your left traversing quite a bit after clipping the first bolt.

4. 16 (7D,A) Follow the bolts to the chains.

5. 13 (A) Top anchors only, climb up rightward toward the forest. This is for access only and hence no bolts but is very easy climbing and allows for a great view!

First Ascent: Jul 2000 Pitches 2-4 led on trad (or can you say so if no gear was placed?).

Pitches 1 & 2 bolted by Martin Bruning & Joffrey Hyman. Pitches 3 & 4 bolted by Dylan Morgan.

Joffrey Hyman & Paul Brouard's project takes the inside of the arete just right of the Miracle Fountain, breaking onto the arete and heading slighlty rightward to the small steep pinnacle at the top. 2 Ropes are essential, one 60m will not work. Can be completed by others but please contact Paul or Joffrey first, some loose rock must still be cleared too.

1. 28 (14D,A) 32m Climb up and slighlty right for 32m.

2. (A) Still being bolted.

3. (A) Still being bolted.

4. 17 (4D,A) 10m Climb out right over easy ground and then up over a bulge to the chains.

5. 27/28 (12D,A) 26m Climb up into the steep section and to the chains. You can top-out from here with a small lead-out however getting back down can be fun. GPS: 28,23.432,29,16.772

Roughly in the middle of the inverted V, 10m left of the huge Yellowwood. Some fine consumer face climbing. This is the first fully bolted route to top out at about 175m (edit: this seems unlikely, probably more like 130m). The route has slab, face, overhangs and cracks and is worth doing.

There is as of 2003 a Gymnogene nest about 50m above this route, please take care not to disturb them.

1. 16 (10B,A) Climbs the gray slab for about 20m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg

2. 17 (10D,A) More slab climbing for about 22m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg Note: Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined to give one 40m pitch.

3. 21 (8D,A) Climb slightly left then up through face and slab section to stance at big ledge this pitch can be dirty. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

4. 21,A0,F23 (10B,A) Climb left the up the crack and face to a cruxy technical section pulling through just below stance. Crux section can be aided on close bolts or freed at 23. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

5. 19 (10D,A) Climb the slab section heading right to a good crack with some fun lay backing, at the top of crack traverse left to stance under roof on good ledge. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

6. 18 (10D,A) Walk out left on small ledge the climb straight up and into off width roofy section, follow the crack from here to stance. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

7. 16 (10D,A) Climb the slab, then through a bulge and onto another thin slab to the finish on top of the mountain. Note the additional set of abseil chains about halfway through this pitch. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

Decent

Abseiling is recommended back to the ground, there are 8 abseils back down using a 50m rope or 4 on two ropes.

Takes the honeycomb rock just left of the trad route. This route is on an east facing side of the mountain that starts in a little forest.

This route starts at the Windy Gap corner of the mountain. There is a tree up against the mountain here. The first bolts are just to the right of the tree. A super fun route! Take two 50m ropes to abseil down. A 60m rope will be a little too short!

1. 22 (9B) 30m A pumpy pitch leads to a comfy cave belay.

2. 23 (8B) 25m Lead straight up through a 'fun' crux.

3. 19 (9B) 40m Heads up until the angle starts easing off.

Just right of SKWISH, a little sharp.

Joffrey's project (Now Open) taking the golden pocketed streak up the face to the top, a huge dyno ends the long 24m route. Please do not lever the flake after the 4th bolt. Climb slightly left and the upward AVOIDING PULLING AGAINST THE HUGE FLAKE. Engineers we need help securing this monster!

Follow the bolts left of Squid.

Follow the large pockets up the right side of the face.